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Discussion in 'Glock Forum' started by glock73, Sep 2, 2012.
So what is better duracoat or cerakote?
Can't speak about cerekote, but my recent duracoat experience was great. I used their shake n spray kit to refinish my 1911 after some mods. Love the way it turned out, and it could not have been easier.
Surface prep is key. Clean and degrease until you think it's done; then do it once again. The more effort put into the prep work, the better the finish results. DO NOT cut corners here or the finish will suffer greatly.
Good luck with whichever you choose.
From what I've been told the cerakote is supposed to be better,but its harder to use. Duracoat is easy to work with and works just fine.
Cerakote is very durable, but it can be harder to work with as far as runs or blotches. Duracoat is very forgiving, but can be a bit frustrating if you don't have time for it to fully cure (approx 2 weeks to full cure).
Norrell's Moly Resin is somewhere in the middle. It wears pretty well, but requires a lot of prep work for the best results. The aplication is very forgiving, and teh fact that it is oven cured, means that it is ready to go after parts cool off.
As Longballer said, with any of these the prep work is the key. The best results I've had so far was applying the Norrells over a pistol that was sandblasted, then parkerized, and then sprayed and baked with the Norrells. The Parkerizing is boded to the metal, and the pores really give great adhesion to the coating. I'm sure the other finishes would benefit from the same pre-treatment, as well.