Firearms Talk banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have a good method to remove surface rust. I have a Uberti SAA that needs some help. It was in a soft case on my reloading bench in the basement when I went on vacation. I got home to discover the ice maker on the refer had sprung a leak. Of course its right above my bench! Any help would be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,247 Posts
I use a white scotch-brite pad and some oil. I have heard of people using 000 steel wool but I heard that the steel wool can get impregnated in your firearm and cause rust later...which is why I use scotch-brite.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
0 Posts
Does anyone have a good method to remove surface rust. I have a Uberti SAA that needs some help. It was in a soft case on my reloading bench in the basement when I went on vacation. I got home to discover the ice maker on the refer had sprung a leak. Of course its right above my bench! Any help would be great.
try some very, very fine steel wool and Kano Kroil on it. i cleaned up my fathers rifle and pistol that had been stored in his safe for over 15 years and they had some surface rust on them. they looked 150% better when i finished with them. Kroil is some amazing stuff. useful as a bore cleaner and penetrant oil also. decent price too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
598 Posts
Does anyone have a good method to remove surface rust. I have a Uberti SAA that needs some help. It was in a soft case on my reloading bench in the basement when I went on vacation. I got home to discover the ice maker on the refer had sprung a leak. Of course its right above my bench! Any help would be great.
I use 0000 steel wool and breakfree clp. Rub the clp over the gun and let set for a few minutes. Then buff the area with the steel wool wiping the area off and assessing it from time to time. Repeat process til the surface rust is removed or you see no improvement. Be sure and clean and oil the gun afterwords as any bits of steel wool left on the gun will rust leaving surface rust on the gun again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,066 Posts
I use 0000 steel wool and breakfree clp. Rub the clp over the gun and let set for a few minutes. Then buff the area with the steel wool wiping the area off and assessing it from time to time. Repeat process til the surface rust is removed or you see no improvement. Be sure and clean and oil the gun afterwords as any bits of steel wool left on the gun will rust leaving surface rust on the gun again.
Agree, I w only add - if OOOO unsuccessful, go OOO steel wool w grain.

PS: Put a cloth down cause little bits of steel wool will go everywhere - when done, carefully roll up and toss it all away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
Me personaly I use a good oil like balistol and a good canvas or burlap and rub the **** out of it .
What realy works good is gunzila and a cloth . But don't use it on rust blued guns . It will take the blueing off .
My 2 cents

Fk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
I use a white scotch-brite pad and some oil. I have heard of people using 000 steel wool but I heard that the steel wool can get impregnated in your firearm and cause rust later...which is why I use scotch-brite.
+1, or more.
The white scotchbrite is finer than any steel wool, anywhere. And, it won't imbed iron particles, because it doesn't have any. Steel wool is for the past. In this case, old school is bad school.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
0 Posts
+1, or more.
The white scotchbrite is finer than any steel wool, anywhere. And, it won't imbed iron particles, because it doesn't have any. Steel wool is for the past. In this case, old school is bad school.
old school methods still work. i still use them with great success, still to this day. some of us still also have old school firearms as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
Never Dull is some pretty awesome stuff. It works really well. It's always handy to have a can of that laying around the shop for other stuff too.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
11,006 Posts
Nothing wrong w old school as axxe has said. I use a toothbrush and clp usually, or a piece of flannel w said clp and occasionally kano kroil.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,146 Posts
I'm not familiar with white Scotchbrite pads, but Scotchbrite is abrasive. Steel wool is not abrasive to steel, and it won't imbed in gun steel.
You don't want to sand the bluing off, you want to remove the rust and leave the bluing. Sometimes learning about "the past" is a good thing-especially to young guys who give advice that will ruin a blued finish.
Neverdull is good stuff on blued guns.
Lead away will also remove bluing.
I think most of you guys have never owned a blued gun.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
0 Posts
old school methods got to be old school because they work. sometimes to get the finished results one wants comes also disguised as elbow grease and time. the younger generation wants results now and usually they have no patience for labor intensive projects. personally i will stick with the old school methods because i know that with some time and effort they will give me the results i am looking for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
I picked up a shotgun recently that had a few freckles of rust. I used Breakfree CLP and a bit of 0000 steel wool. Cleaned up the rust freckles nicely, I applied a bit of Oxpho Blue and you can barely tell where the rust was if you didn't know.

Old school is usually best. Don't use scotch brite, iv used these for metal prep and they will remove bluing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,300 Posts
When you first see rust and it looks like a copper hue, shinny not gritty looking. I use a pencil eraser.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,344 Posts
My two cents-------45 years as a gunsmith, I'm still old school. I use 0000 steel wool and usually Marvel Mystery Oil, as I keep a gallon in the shop. Light rusting with no pitting is usually easily removed and looks like new.


Jim.........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
I've used WD40. I'll start out with a paper towel and WD40, if that doesn't work, then I'll go to the 0000steel wool and WD40, and USE LIGHT PRESSURE! again, only the rust must go, not the whole finish.

...normally a paper towel/WD40 is all I need, but then again, I take care of my own stuff and check on all my mags etc once a month or so. I've never inherited a gun that had major rust on it.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top