Cleaning my SKS

Discussion in 'AK & SKS Discussion' started by Megaton, Apr 23, 2009.

  1. Megaton

    Megaton New Member

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    I recently purchased an SKS and it was very dirty. I cleaned it as good as a could with what I have but I am not satisfied.

    What is something that I can safely soak the metal pieces in? Thats the only way I am going to get this rifle clean.

    The rifle functions fine I am just being anal about this. I would never let one of my guns get close to this dirty and now that its mine I want it clean. ;)
     
  2. Southern6er

    Southern6er New Member

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    Probably cosmolene on there.

    Brake/Carb cleaner works great on the metal pieces. Just be sure to oil em afterwards - that stuff takes all the protecting stuff off.

    How's the stock? Covered too? If so, that is cosmolene to be sure. Hot water, the garbage bag in the sun trick, Simple Green, and the controversial dishwasher trick will all work. I used a bit of all of them cept the dish washer.
     

  3. Megaton

    Megaton New Member

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    Yep must be that stuff, its on the inside of the stock too. Im not really too concerned about the stalk, more concerned about the moving parts mainly the bolt. It was filthy with normal buildup that accumulates. I did my best on it but I will have to make a trip to the auto parts store to get some carb cleaner and some compressed air.
     
  4. Southern6er

    Southern6er New Member

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    Dupe of next post.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2009
  5. Southern6er

    Southern6er New Member

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    You want to clean up the stock too. That cosmo can leach out of the stock and into/onto the metals, so you're best off by cleaning it up too. I put it in the black garbage bag, wrapped the stock in paper towels. and let it sit outside a day down here. Then I applied hot water/simplegreen to clean it up. Did a bit of heat gun stuff, but I didn't feel comfortable with that. Here's how the stock sat at that point.

    [​IMG]

    It wasn't bad, but I knew it still had some cosmo in it - it felt odd, and greasy. Did NOT like it.

    So then I switched to turpentine to clean it up.

    THAT got it out.

    I then applied some military wax I got at Home Page. 1/3 beeswax, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 turpentine. It cleaned it more (applied with 0000 steel wool) and I let it harden up. Then I wiped it all down and hand applied the stuff again and let it absorb.

    Here's how it sits today.

    [​IMG]

    It cleaned it so well, I can see stampings that I hadn't seen before.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I've used this process on my M1 Garand (1942 Springfield) and it came out wonderful.
     
  6. Megaton

    Megaton New Member

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    I went ahead and sprayed down most of the internal parts with break cleaner. Some are still not up to par but certainly much better then when I got the rifle last week. No work on the stock just yet. Thinking about sanding it down and refinishing it as it has some imperfections.

    Matching serial numbers, unknown when it was built as its a chinese sks and not from the factory that we have dating info on.

    A question, I am experiencing some misfires with wolf steel case ammo. Roughly 5% of the rounds do not fire on the first attempt. They all go bang on the second attempt. To me the primer strike seems fine, about the same primer strikes I get with all my other centerfire guns. Could it be the ammo or is there something I can do to fix this problem?

    Other than that I am very pleased with the rifle. Plenty accurate to drop a zombie at 100+ yards. Id like to get this failure to fire problem sorted out so I can rely it for medium range defense in a SHTF situation.
     

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  7. RL357Mag

    RL357Mag New Member

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    3 years ago I bought an "Arsenal New" Yugo which was in storage for 40 years and came packed in cosmoline and wrapped in plastic. I thought I cleaned it good enough, but I experienced the same problem you did until I soaked the bolt in kerosene overnight and blew it out with compressed air. The grease congeals over time and causes the firing pin to stick. Try cleaning the bolt. Remove the firing pin if you can and clean the bolt out thoroughly. Be sure the bolt spring is clean and free of caked-up grease.
     
  8. Megaton

    Megaton New Member

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    I tried to remove the firing pin but it proved to be more stubborn than I am. I believe that is my problem with the failure to fires because when I pulled out the bolt the firing pin was stuck. I guess I did more harm than anything by spraying the bolt down with brake cleaner. Must have loosened up some grime and then it hardened. Im going to try soaking the bolt and hopefully the retaining pin will come out.
     
  9. gunsmith01

    gunsmith01 New Member

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    I would suggest looking for Kroil. It's a cleaner that will take out just about anything. You can soak the parts in that overnight and it should come apart relatively easy. I have always had good results with Kroil.
     
  10. Megaton

    Megaton New Member

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    Thanks for the link southern6er. I can not get the retaining pin to break free. Walmart sells kerosene seasonally here so I will have to wait until I can make a trip to the hardware store to get some. I sprayed the bolt down with break cleaner again and this time I sprayed it down with compressed air, then oiled the firing pin. It seems to have fixed the problem.

    After looking at some of the spent cases I am starting to wonder if the ammo I'd the problem. So far I've only shot wolf black box through it. I read that others have had problems with ammo from time to time. The primer strikes from the sks are heavier than any of my centerfire pistols and yet I have not had any problems with any of them in regards to failure to fire.

    I have a box of some american made ammo I will try when I get a chance. Unfortunately it's only 20 rounds, and most of the wolf 20 round boxes all fire without a problem. I will post pics of the primer strikes the gun produces when I get a chance.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2009
  11. Southern6er

    Southern6er New Member

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    I used a hammer and a hole punch to get the pin out. It took a few solid hits to get it out, but it came out on the 3rd or 4th strike.
     
  12. Megaton

    Megaton New Member

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    The metal my punch was made from must have been very cheap because the punch actually deformed. Believe me, I beat on that pin but it proved to be a worth adversary. ;) I will have to get a better punch and give it another go. I do think that my problems are ammo related, the primer strikes are solid. The gun shoots fine, hasn't gone full auto on me or anything, but I am very careful with it just in case. When I can get in there and really give it a good cleaning I will feel much better about considering the gun 'battle ready' so to speak.

    I like the gun alot. 50 yards from a knee 10/10 shots into center mass, similar results from 100 yards with iron sites, the gun is accurate enough for my current needs/wants.
     
  13. RL357Mag

    RL357Mag New Member

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    +1000 - best stuff ever made - "the oil that creeps" into spaces as small as one-one millionth of an inch". I removed a broken exhaust manifold stud from the engine block of an 86 Mitsubishi, by hand, after applying a few drops to the broken stud and waiting 30 minutes for it to penetrate the threads. I ordered a gallon 15 years ago and just finished it. Paid $28/gallon from the manufacturer. The gun shops sell it for $12/pt. Order it from directly from Kano Labs ( the manufacturer) it's much cheaper that way.
     
  14. supergus

    supergus New Member

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    I detail stripped mine, put everything except for the furniture I could in the oven at 200 degrees for 1/2 hour. The cosmoline just drips out. Then take the parts and put 'em in a tub that's long enough for the barrel and fill the tub with TSP Substitute from lowe's or HD. An old tooth brush,and an old dish brush and a bore brush with CLP Breakfree and I was done. BTW expect to have more cosmo drips once you heat the barrel up while firing. Just clean it again.