cleaning and oiling new 1911

Discussion in '1911 Forum' started by ginfield, Mar 13, 2012.

  1. ginfield

    ginfield New Member

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    I know I saw a thread on this somewhere, but I can't find it now.

    What are your recommendations on cleaning and oiling a 1911.

    I just got a new Kimber pro carry II about a month ago and its due for a cleaning

    Thanks
     
  2. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    What does the owner's manual say?

    Use oil sparingly. Too much and you get sprayed on the next time you shoot it.
     

  3. limbkiller

    limbkiller New Member

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    If it slides grease it. Everything else oil it. Run all guns WET unless it's 20 below zero. Not dripping but oiled.
     
  4. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    I have found, in general terms, that most solvents commercially available for gun cleaning have little to no negitive effect on the gun's finish. (steel, NOT plastic gun finishes) Of course that's if you use it per directions.

    As a rule I do two types of 1911 cleaning; [*]The "fast-but-necessary" post range trip buff

    This consists of a field strip removing only the;
    • mag
    • slide release
    • bushing
    • barrel
    • spring
    • guide rod

    Using the Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent I clean the barrel. breech face and any other carbon deposits I see with a brush. I continue the cleaning until my wipe cloth/patch returns clean.

    Wipe down and inspect the mag, recoil spring, guide rod, plug and bushing.

    I do a complete visual inspection of the moving parts looking for wear witness marks, cracks or galling.

    I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)

    Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

    Wipe down the gun's surface with your silicon rag.
    [*]The "Detailed Deep-Clean" scrub. Completely strip your 1911, everything except;
    1. Sights
    2. Plunger tube (remove the spring & plungers)
    3. Grip bushings
    4. Ejector

    While you have it in this most revealing condition, inspect everything.

    [​IMG]

    • Get your soap and mix with hot water in the bucket. If really dirty use Brakleen.
    • Place the large parts (receiver, slide) in the bucket.
    • Place your small parts in a strainer and dip in the soapy water. View attachment 39979
    • Scrub all parts until void of any lubricant.
    • Lay parts out on a clean shop towel and re-inspect everything. Look at the wear areas and for cracks or galling.

    This is the time to visually inspect every part in detail..

    [​IMG]

    Trigger Bow ^

    [​IMG]

    Slide stop ^

    [​IMG]

    Barrel ^

    Using your compressed air, clean all the nooks and crannies. Use the q-tips to clean the extractor and firing pin channels.

    If you find any trace of dirt/lube, draw more hot water, add the Dawn and re-do the scrub thingie. Or re-spray with Brakleen.

    I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)
    After a deep cleaning especially with Brakleen, use an aerosol lube like Rem oil, or as I do, get a olive oil spray bottle and fill it with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. The spray allows you to get deep into the nooks and crannies to protect the bare surfaces.

    Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

    And most important, after a complete tear-down, dry fire the gun with a squib rod seated against the breech face. Insure the firing pin is working by rotating the muzzle to straight up, dry fire and look for the rod to jump when struck by the firing pin. Do this before you return the pistol to service. (Trust the old man on this one!)
     
  5. gollygee

    gollygee New Member

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    Canebrake, are the three wear spots you point out consider normal wear?
     
  6. colmustard

    colmustard New Member

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  7. 2ndAmendmentFreedom

    2ndAmendmentFreedom New Member

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    I have that kind of wear on my barrel and I'm sure it's normal wear. The slide rubs against it when racking/shooting so it's going to get scratched up.

    Grease is actually NOT recommended on the 1911, it'd probably work but oil only is usually recommended, that's what I do and I don't have any issues. I've been trying that new FrogLube and I like it.
     
  8. ginfield

    ginfield New Member

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    Thanks Cane, that pretty much answers my question.
     
  9. g17frantz

    g17frantz New Member

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    Is that stickied Cane? It needs to be if it isn't. As always....I bow down to your 1911 prowess.
     
  10. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    +1 2nd! I'm a big Frog Lube Fan Boy! Watch for my NEW GUN test coming to a forum near you.

    I'm a 1911, oil only guy!

    Grease is a dirt magnet. Oil is a flushing agent.

    Use cane's Mobil Mystery CLP/LUBE/ FMELIXER and everything is good! (and Frog Lube)
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2012
  11. FCross7

    FCross7 New Member

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    I've been seeing a lot of good Frog Lube talk lately. I'm typically a grease guy, due to my personal experience that most oils I use are dried up and gone in a couple weeks, even the good ones like MPro7 and Weaponshield, both of which aren't supposed to dry up.

    Frog lube looks interesting though and will probably be the next thing the mani the brown truck leaves at my house

    -Fred
     
  12. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    Sorry for the delay, I missed it.

    Yes, you will see normal wear witness marks in those locations.

    What you are looking for are advanced wear indicators such as galling, wear ridges, cracks and potential fatigue.
     
  13. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    Fred, don't get duped into buying the "kit" with both the liquid and paste along with a rag and a solder acid brush. You probably have the brush (or buy 6 for what you pay for one in the kit.) and any rag works.

    I suggest you go with the 4 oz tub of the paste. It goes far and will do several guns, several times. It works on metal, plastic and wood. I do everything including my grips. I don't have a pair of G-10 grips, yet, but don't think I'd use it on them.

    Does it work? So far it looks good.