CETME rear sight

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by danf_fl, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Okay, CETME is not the "Top of the Line" .308, but I have one I am kinda stuck with.

    Dern thing shoots to the right (even though I went the max amount available to align the sights).

    I took a string from the front sight enclosure and ran it to the butt stock. The rear sight (welded to the receiver and non-adjustable) is not in line. It seems to be about 1/8" to 1/4" to the right.

    Any suggestions on how to break the welds without ruining the receiver and rewelding it into the correct position?
     
  2. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    Have you considered filing the rear sight? It sounds like you would have to open it up an awful lot though.
     

  3. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    The rear sight has a "flip" arrangement for different ranges.
    The 100m is a "V" sight, the 200m, 300m, and 400m are similar to the M-16 rear sight (an "O")
    My thoughts are to "Dremel" the welds. After removing the sight, file the remaining weld marks on the receiver and re-weld with a wire feed welder.

    My concern is warpage of the receiver (it is stamped metal).
     
  4. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    Yeah that could be a serious problem. I haven't done it so I won't even attempt to advise you. Hopefully one of the other guys has some input.
     
  5. kytowboater

    kytowboater Active Member

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    If your tired of it, I'll pay the one way shipping fees to my door.
     
  6. willfully armed

    willfully armed New Member

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    I thought about moving my rear sight, but sold it before I got the initiative to to so.

    Dremel with a cut off wheel would remove it, then a few tack welds to put it back on. Be careful, and you wont overheat the receiver.
     
  7. m72law

    m72law New Member

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    i used a cutoff wheel to remove my cetme rear sight,then die grinded/file,to prep the rear sight area.

    i replaced my rear sight with a hk91/g3 sight and base...it gives you windage & elevation adjusments.its the best 30bucks you'll spend on a cetme;)unless you want to scope it then throw a claw mount on it. this is the site i bought my hk sight from-

    Uzi Parts - RTG International Surplus Gun Parts or www.robertrtg.com

    i used a tig welder,you have a mig right?

    i wouldnt worry about warping,i would be more worried about blowing holes through it,find another scrap peice of metal w/same thickness to dial in your heat settings on your mig.
     
  8. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Yes, I've got a MIG wire feed.

    The other option I have is to use JB-weld.

    Would the operative words here be "Take your time" when doing it?
     
  9. m72law

    m72law New Member

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    "Take your time" when doing it?

    that might help also.save that JB weld..remember that sight will draw up when heat is applied,clamp her down,& go for it!:D
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2012
  10. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    I ordered some "practice" pieces from milsurp.com.

    I plan to do a trial run on a used rear sight to see if my skills are up to the task.
     
  11. goodsteel

    goodsteel New Member

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    I dont mean to stick my nose into a gunsmithing project that I have never done, but I would like to sugest that welding is the most harsh way to attach anyhting to a firearm (I realize, not knowing exactly what you are attempting here, that may not be an option on this project)
    However, if you need to stick two pieces of metal together you can:
    Glue with 2216, red locktite or similar.
    Solder with low heat solder.
    Silver solder.
    Or braze.
    Any of the above methods would give you a simi-permanent/permanent joint that would look sharp and work well.
    Just my 2 cents worth. Might be worth a try.
     
  12. triggerjob

    triggerjob New Member

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    Fire arms welding should be done with a TIG setup, to absolutely minimize the heat effected zone. Personally I would not attempt this with a wire feed setup unless you are skilled at welding sheet metal, if you did have the skill, youd probly also have a TIG torch.

    The best way to do what you want and have a good clean job is to cut off the site using your dremmel or foredom tool, clean up all the burrs, rough up both mating surfaces, and then silver solder the site in place.

    You arent familiar with silver soldering, trust me theres more to it than torch and solder, then just use JB Weld, or ACRA GLASS, if you use expoxy, and thouroughly clean both parts and follow the mixing instructions it will work great wear like iron, also it can be removed simply with a torche.
     
  13. triggerjob

    triggerjob New Member

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    One more thing, CETMEs are supposed to adjust for windage at the front site, so before you muck up your rifle, look at the front post, it ought to turn, the post is set off center so as it rotates it moves off center sort of like and orbit. Check this out first before cutting the spot welds on your rear site.