canebrake's 1911 platform pistol cleaning suggestions

Discussion in '1911 Forum' started by canebrake, Feb 25, 2013.

  1. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    THIS IS NOT THE BE ALL AND END ALL OF 1911 CLEANING! copied from the Gunsmithing Section

    This is not a FireArmsTalk.com endorsed or condoned procedure. It is however, a process applied by this 66 year old gun totin', retired engineer and grumpy 'ole codger that has served him well. So no flaming posts please, just PM me with your suggestions/corrections and I will modify this guide. ;)

    Best advice, buy the highest quality cleaning supplies and tools you can afford!

    Good cleaning tools are an investment and should have as much pre-purchase research as did your gun selection.

    I've used them all and can save you the time and $$$ with my recommendations. (Just remember this is subjective and don't get yourself confused with the Chevy vs Ford thingie.)

    Here are my minimum requirements for gun maintenance: (provided links are for visual reference, SHOP around!)

    Hardware (get dedicated tools and keep them in a cleaning box marked 1911 Cleaning and don't mix them with your other gun/caliber equipment.)

    Consumables
    • Solvent(s) Get the Hoppes #9
      I like/use Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent - MidwayUSA
    • Lube
      I blend my own. Cane's "Mobil Mystery", 90% Mobil 1 / 10% Marvel Mystery.
      [​IMG] + [​IMG]
    • Patches (get caliber-specific size patches and DON'T mix them!)
    • Q-Tips (can't clean guns without them!)

    For protection; I've just started to use this stuff, it looks promising.

    Frog Lube

    [​IMG]

    As a rule I do two types of 1911 cleaning;
    1. The "fast-but-necessary" post range trip buff
      This consists of a field strip removing only the;
      • mag
      • slide release
      • bushing
      • barrel
      • spring
      • guide rod

      Using the Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent I clean the barrel. breech face and any other carbon deposits I see with a brush. I continue the cleaning until my wipe cloth/patch returns clean.

      Wipe down and inspect the mag, recoil spring, guide rod, plug and bushing.

      I do a complete visual inspection of the moving parts looking for wear witness marks, cracks or galling.

      I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)

      Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

      Wipe down the gun's surface with your silicon rag.
    2. The "Detailed Deep-Clean" scrub
      Completely strip your 1911, everything except;
      1. Sights
      2. Plunger tube (remove the spring & plungers)
      3. Grip bushings
      4. Ejector

      While you have it in this most revealing condition, inspect everything.

      [​IMG]
      • Get your soap and mix with hot water in the bucket. If really dirty use Brakleen.
      • Place the large parts (receiver, slide) in the bucket.
      • Place your small parts in a strainer and dip in the soapy water.
        [​IMG]
      • Scrub all parts until void of any lubricant.
      • Lay parts out on a clean shop towel and re-inspect everything. Look at the wear areas and for cracks or galling.

      This is the time to visually inspect every part in detail..

      [​IMG]

      Trigger Bow ^

      [​IMG]

      Slide stop ^

      [​IMG]

      Barrel ^

      Using your compressed air, clean all the nooks and crannies. Use the q-tips to clean the extractor and firing pin channels.

      If you find any trace of dirt/lube, draw more hot water, add the Dawn and re-do the scrub thingie. Or re-spray with Brakleen.

      I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)
      After a deep cleaning especially with Brakleen, use an aerosol lube like Rem oil, or as I do, get a olive oil spray bottle and fill it with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. The spray allows you to get deep into the nooks and crannies to protect the bare surfaces.

      Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

      And most important, after a complete tear-down, dry fire the gun with a squib rod seated against the breech face. Insure the firing pin is working by rotating the muzzle to straight up, dry fire and look for the rod to jump when struck by the firing pin. Do this before you return the pistol to service. (Trust the old man on this one!)

    Tips:
    1. Use only properly sized tools (if you don't have that .45 bore brush, get one!)
    2. Clean your gun barrel in the same direction the bullet travels (on your gun, with the barrel removed, push the brush from breech to muzzle, remove the brush and pull the rod out, IOW, don't run it back-and-forth)
    3. Use a fresh patch on each pass (patches are cheap, barrels are expensive)
    4. DO NOT drag a dirty patch back through the "just cleaned" barrel
    5. Disassemble your gun only to the level required to access areas where fouling reaches
    6. Cleaning your gun requires a clean work area. The idea is to remove, not add dirt
    7. When it comes to lube, lighter is better (pass a lightly lubed bore mop 2-3 times instead of a oil soaked and dripping mop once)
    8. Lube needs to be present, not seen (visual) to work (see # 7 above)
     
  2. racer_x

    racer_x New Member

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    nice ride as always Canebreak.

    Thx for your time!!!!
     

  3. 38special

    38special New Member

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    Question 1: how do you feel about using green soap
    Question 2: break free... My old man swears by it,I dislike it use rem-oil(wife says we're both nuts)

    Nice bit of info and breakdown my good sir..
     
  4. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    I thought this was already a stickie?
     
  5. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Cane must have been looking in my safe to see what condition I let my firearms stay in. :)
     
  6. blindshooter

    blindshooter New Member

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    67 year old gun totin retired engineer and grumpy ole man

    That was my father, and he mantained all his firearms exactly to your specs, except the Special Cane Lube, he used Royal Purple, but that's the only difference.
    I guess that's an ole engineering trick, huh.
    Smart ole birds.
     
  7. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    1. What's green soap?
    2. Nope, check the price/oz Break Free ~$1.50/oz VS. Brakleen Non-Chlorinated ~$0.30/oz

    [​IMG]
     
  8. HOSSFLY

    HOSSFLY New Member

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    Hey, nobody told me i had to clean them too :mad:

    Gud job Cane :)
     
  9. 38special

    38special New Member

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    It's a medical cleaning soap mostly made of pure vegetable oils.
     
  10. otisthecat

    otisthecat New Member

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    So where does the Frog Lube factor in? Long term storage?
     
  11. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    But none of my guns are sick? [​IMG]
     
  12. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    I've been using it for about a year. After a deep cleaning (or getting a new gun) I coat ALL parts with the stuff and then simply wipe them down.

    I have found that cleaning after range trips is much easier and faster.

    From the company;
    Product Description
    FROGLUBE® is a cutting edge NON-Toxic lubricant made from "food-grade" ingredients products in the USA using a proprietary formula. It is a non-toxic substance that dissolves carbon, grease and sludge on contact. It has a heavy specific gravity which allows it to "season" the metal by absorption deep into the pores and results in a durable slippery surface that reduces friction. Metal, plastic, urethane, nylon or other durable surfaces treated with FROGLUBE® are rejuvenated, preserved and will give extended years of service. FROGLUBE® will not harm the environment. It can be disposed of without the need of HAZMAT controls. If used in the workplace, employees will be protected from the affects of other toxic chemicals.

    I got my kit from botachmainlogo.jpg a great FTF Vendor w/free shipping.

    FrogLube 4oz Paste & Liquid Kit
     
  13. winds-of-change

    winds-of-change The Balota's Staff Member

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    Practice up, my man. I'm going to be dirtying up at least one of your 1911's. ;)
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 25, 2013
  14. otisthecat

    otisthecat New Member

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    Interesting, I'll give it a try. Thanks!
     
  15. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    I can't wait! I will give Canebrake a extra coat of FrogLube to have it ready for you to dirty-up. [​IMG]
     
  16. FullautoUSA

    FullautoUSA Welcoming Committee/ Resident Pellet Gunner Lifetime Supporter

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    Great post!!!!!!!!! I'm gonna save this for future reference :D
     
  17. REDTAIL

    REDTAIL Member

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    Nice instructions I use EEZOX for my cleaning & Lube & it does the job great.?
     
  18. jackal6

    jackal6 New Member

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    I'm afraid to break my 1911 that far don't know if I'll be able to get it back together right I suppose I could you tube it :)
     
  19. FullautoUSA

    FullautoUSA Welcoming Committee/ Resident Pellet Gunner Lifetime Supporter

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    Don't be afraid to do it, it's probably the easiest gun to completely disassemble. YouTube it and practice it, eventually you'll be able to do it by memory.
     
  20. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    There are knowledgeable people here who are willing to help.