Camo job

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by ss33204, Oct 18, 2012.

  1. ss33204

    ss33204 New Member

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    I want to do a camo job on my rifle but don't know where to start, I have a replacement stock on it now so I have the original stock to Mabie practice on. Looking for someone with some experience and know-how on DIY synthetic stock camo. What types of paint? Tips? Any info would be appreciated. Any suggestions on anything else other than camo? Something that looks great.
     
  2. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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  3. ss33204

    ss33204 New Member

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    Do I order a kit for that? Or do I need to get it sent out to be done?
     
  4. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    You can order a kit. YouTube has videos and there are a ton of options. Just google it. ;)
     
  5. ss33204

    ss33204 New Member

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    Thanks man, how does it hold? For a long time?
     
  6. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    Yeah it holds up good. All the camo guns you see in stores are done that way.
     

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  7. JoeNoble

    JoeNoble New Member

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    I've been thinking about doing somethin similar to this to my AR. [ame]http://youtu.be/MBf6TFRSM34[/ame]
     
  8. Nathantc

    Nathantc New Member

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    nothing beats krylon fusion camo and a very porous sponge

    this is how my stock started out,, it came in OD green so i used that for a base color
    [​IMG]

    and a about 30mins with a sponge and some black and khaki and i now have this


    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    doing it this way makes it look much more natural and less man made,,, remember camo is suppose to be random and works much better when done
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2013
  9. MisterMcCool

    MisterMcCool Well-Known Member Supporter

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    I have a green chainsaw that I have set down while working and had a hard time finding. I just know I would lose a camouflage gun.
     
  10. cva209x50

    cva209x50 New Member

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    Go to Walmart and pick up a couple cans of the camo spray paint. Alternate stripes with blotches. I did that with my treestand and you can just barely see it at 100 yards. ;)
     
  11. Franklin1995

    Franklin1995 New Member

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    How would that stuff hold up on a barrel? Would the heat cause it to flake off?
     
  12. KG7IL

    KG7IL Active Member

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    It very well could cook it a bit, perhaps flake it, might bond it better.
    Probably won't affect the overall quality of your paint job.

    Heavy use will do more to finish it a short order than anything.
    Dragging it through the sand and gravel, tossing it up on the river bank, jumping from tree to tree is going to be rough on it.

    I always figured the beauty of the paint can is cheap to do, cheap to redo. .

    I am still on the fence. . I don't do much jumping from tree to tree.
     
  13. cva209x50

    cva209x50 New Member

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    OK use high heat spray paint
     
  14. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    first of after many years of doing vehicle paint jobs, one fact has remained about painting anything, that the prep work is the most important step in doing any paint work, regardless of what you are painting. wood, metal or plastic, it doesn't matter. each just needs different prep before painting.

    do crappy prep work and expect a crappy finish and plan on it coming off very soon.
     
  15. Franklin1995

    Franklin1995 New Member

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    Alright, I think i'm gonna do it to my rifle soon. I love the looks of a completely painted rifle, scope and all. Would it be okay to paint the bolt as well? Also, if I did eventually want to take the paint off, how hard would that be? Axxe, do you have any tips on prepping a Marlin XL7? I know you've done a few of those.

    Franklin
     
  16. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    first step is good washing with warm soapy water, using something like Dawn. inside and outside, with a good scrub brush to clean all the nooks and crannys. next i like to use a red 3M ScotchBrite, available at most any auto parts stores that sell paint supplies, along with a brake cleaner. this does two things, it helps rough up the surface for paint and helps remove any residual oils that may be there. again follow with another warm soapy wash and dry very well. next is a final wipe-down with alcohol to remove any oils remaining from handling. next step is to apply a couple of very light coats of adhesion promoter. this usually available at most parts stores as well. i use Bulldog brand personally. let dry very well before applying any paint. at least 20-45 minutes depending on the temperature. personally i don't paint anything unless the temperature is at least 60 degrees or more. now i use the Krylon Ultra Flat Camo paints for mine. first rule is that more and lighter coats are much better than a few thicker coats. get a base coat down first of the desired color wanted for the pattern you are trying to get. once you have the base coat done, then randomly use other colors to get the desired results. now i make my own pattern stencils and natural plants to get my camo patterns. there are no hard or set rules here. let your imagination work or look at other pictures of camo jobs to find something that appeals to you. another thing is, you can't screw up a camo paintjob! it just provides a new base to work off if it is screwed up! enjoy!:D
     
  17. DARIVS ARCHITECTVS

    DARIVS ARCHITECTVS New Member

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    I don't understand why people go through all the trouble of camouflaging the gun and don't camouflage the scope. Why not do ALL the major parts and make the camouflage really work?
     
  18. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    you can do it any way that suits you. it's about personal preference. myself, i don't hunt, and my doing just the stock is more of a cosmetic covering of the black stocks which hate the looks of. i like the looks of the camo much better. several of mine are going to be replaced with walnut or laminated stocks at some point, but the camo looks bettr until i get to that point.
     
  19. va-firearms

    va-firearms New Member

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    We agree with axxe55 prep is everything when we dip our last coat is cerekote clear for protection ! hydrographics is what comes on most camp guns from the factory depending on what camp pattern you'd like you can also get a pattern done in cerekote. For something like a stoke the DIY kits aren't half bad and may work out well for you there are a lot of factors when dipping though its not quite as easy as youtube makes it look. If you were looking to get the barrel done I'd def look into getting it sent off and done by someone. This is something that we do.https://www.va-firearms.com/Media.php check out our gallery for some pics of some work we have done