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Discussion in 'AR-15 Discussion' started by GREGULON, Jul 17, 2012.
Day 1. Got my new SAA Reaper lower and a free pistol grip today. Next is a KAC 2 stage trigger.
Is this going to be a 300 Blackout? Or are you talking about something else?
Looks like a good start. I know you were batting the idea around in the other thread, but I lost track of any final decisions.
Are you going to suppress it? What length barrel are you going with? Are you reloading for it?
Looking forward to the build, please keep the pictures and updates coming!!
Nice! I have been thinking real hard about building a blackout upper for mine. It is a .556. I will be following this build. Please share in detail as you go.
Sounds like a fun build! I just sold one of these yesterday.
Well it time to update. Got a Viltor Imod buttstock.
A Matech Rear BUIS 600 meter.
Knights Armament 2 stage trigger.
Today a lower parts kit and buffer tube from Surplus Ammo and Arms.
I bought a stripped lower last week with the intent of building a 300 Blk. I want to suppress it plus I want a QD can so I'm deciding of I want to order the can first then save for the build while I wait for the stamp.
I'm a little irritated because the class 3 dealer had an AAC 762 SDN-6 for $850 when I went in to buy a Sparrow SS. I went back a week later with my form 4 for the Sparrow and the 762 was gone. They said they could order another one but quoted me $1050 (MSRP) and said the previous price was based on a deal they got from their distributor. Grr.
Building an AR seems daunting with all of the choices!
That is a great looking lower. I plan on building a upper to my AR in 300blk. That way I will just swap uppers. But I think my wife want me to build her one next.
Lower is done
What are you going to feed it?
These came in a few days ago...AAC 16" 300 BLK upper with KAC URX II, AAC 51T Blackout, and Nickel Boron M16 Bolt Carrier.
I am most likely not going to worry about suppression. My main reason for going Blackout is stopping power. So most likely a supersonic match hollow point.
Just ordered a H3 heavy buffer,spikes trigger guard, ambi safety, and Ergo grip. And I think that will take care of the details. The only other thing I might change the stock. The Vltor just seems unsecured compared to my CTR. I think either the ACS or the STR. Them its all upper.
I'm currently building a .300 blackout sbr. I think its going to be kick ***.
I don't do suppressed or SBR.
This is what I have listed with a 16inch barrel:
Bullettype weight powder weight velocity
V-Max 110 H110 18.5 2160
V-Max 110 H110 19 2302
V-Max 110 H110 19.5 2271
V-Max 110 H110 20 2240
OTM 125 H110 16.5 2018
OTM 125 H110 17 2031
OTM 125 H110 17.5 2053
OTM 125 H110 17.8 2131
OTM 125 H110 18 2123
M2 GI 147 H110 16.4 1928
M2 GI 147 H110 16.6 1945
M2 GI 147 H110 16.8 1948
M2 GI 147 H110 17 1988
But alas, I am switching over to 'Lit Gun' and haven't done a test run-up yet.
As soon as I get a fully tested loading for the 147s, I will adjust that data for some 150 grain, expensive slugs for hunting uses.
This data is only for reference use and should not be used for direct loading use, as these loads may not be safe with other components, assembled in other manners, in other weapons.
So I just put some $ in the account and realized I could buy a new URX III 13.5 KAC rail for my 5.56 16" and switch the Ati rail to what will be 14.5" Blackout. I think the URXIII is so cool looking but is it really worth the $300. Can any one tell me why?
that's just for the rail...you still need to spend $100+ for the proprietary tool. oh, forgot to mention...everything KAC is expensive.
So instead of the URX III I just purchased a Troy TRX Alpha 15" for $175. The only worry I have is that I like reconfiguring my rifle and the rail sections look difficult to swap out because they are connected with a back plate unlike the rail sections on my ATI rail which just screw on and off the outside of the hand guard. Any opinions or tip would be welcome.
Admittedly it is a pain to get that rear section in place when relocating your rail sections.
Personally I think its a small price to pay, a trade-off for having a strong lightweight rail. Having threads built into the rail would be more convenient, but it would make the rail bulkier and heavier.