Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in '.22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion' started by gunnysgt68, Apr 4, 2010.
What is the best tool but cheap, for boresighting a Ruger 10-22? Laser, magnetic etc. Thanks Gunny
Gunny, how about stopping by the introductions thread and telling us a little about yourself?
That being said, we have a green laser boresighter that you place into the end of the barrel. It is easy to use, will function will most calibers, and works very well, especially if you are trying to sight in with a red reticled sight.
Will do! Where do I get the laser? Thanks Gunny
For the least expensive tool a collometer fits the bill. This is the one I use
For a laser boresighter, which a good one will be costly and a cheap one isn't worth a damn, I use a SiteLite SL500
This is the one we have.
HEAVY DUTY LASER BORESIGHTER
ITEM NO. EAGLE LB635 HEAVY DUTY BORESIGHTER COMPLETE WITH 4 DIFFERENT CALIBER INSERTS
FROM .22 TO 50 CALIBER AND COMPLETE 123 BATTERY GREEN VERY STRONG LASER YOU CAN BORE SIGHT
IN THE DAYTIME WITH THIS ONE YOUR COST $ 90.00 COMPLETE
I must add that all any of these boresighters will do is get you "on paper". You'll have to still adjust scope/sights to totally zero on target at the shooting range.
I don't really like boresighters. If you can't get zeroed without using a boresighter, then you won't be able to zero for any other range other than what you're boresighted for. Save your money.
I'd learn how to zero your gun. What I do is zero for something close, like 50 feet, and then work my way out to my desired zero.
Just my 2¢
I don't understand. Once the rifle is zeroed in, whether you use a boresighter or not, it stays zeroed, provided you have a good base, rings, and a properly installed scope, regardless of where you take it after that. Am I missing something?
Well, to be totally honest, I'll have to say that my laser bore sighter has become more of a novelty item for me. However, I do use the little attachment to make a horizintal or verticle line on the little target that has a level on it that came with my boresighter in conjunction with that Level, Level, Level kit when I remove and replace the scopes on my rifles. Using it this way is just sort of a backup verification for my process of leveling my scopes. Even for that I dont really need it.
Now theres my 2 cents worth.
Actually, same here ...but that was not my question to the previous poster.
With my bolt actions, I'll just go the old-fashioned way of removing the bolt and sighting down the bore until I get on paper and that usually gets me on paper at fifty yards, and then I move the target out gradually.
At least with the cheap laser boresighter I have.....you can't see the darned laser dot past fifty yards......especially in daylight...and with my 12 year-old Lasik that seems to be wearing off!
Yeah lon, I know what you mean about that lasik eye surgery. My buddy had that done in the late 90's and the last couple of years he's been having some touble with his vision. Nothing major yet, but his vision is not what it was for the first few years after his lasik.
Also, I originally bought my laser bore sighter when I first scoped out my M1A. (no bolt to remove) It would get on paper at 100 yards. Now, however, when I dink around with the scope, constantly on and off this rifle, I just start at the 25 yard line to start sighting in then move my way out to 100 yards, shooting 3 to 5 round strings and adjusting sights/scope as I move further out. Once I get to 100 yards I have my "dope" book to get on target further out.
Just put a target on the inside bottom of a cardboard box; we did this with an elcheapo i bought, and it worked adequately.
Remember to take the gizmo out before loading.
Well, at least the vision is regressing back to where it was BEFORE the surgery and not any worse!
I've got a BSA boresighting set that I bought years ago,it will boresight any caliber from .17 -.50 and has always put me on paper.
A boresighter is to only get you on paper,not the bullseye. Mine almost always puts me high and to the right of the bullseye at 50yrds,I adjust the scope to center and then shoot at 100yrds and adjust scope again on centerfire,on rimfire I usually dial it in at 25yrds first and then go to 50 & farther.
The laser bore sighter can save on ammo for a semi auto because it can get you on paper at 100. A collometer does the same thing if your adept at using one. I probably should use one of either of these in my semi auto's as I constantly remove and replace the scopes and using one of these devices could save me somewhat in $$$$ as opposed as not using one. For a bolt gun, however, neither one of these devices are necessary.
What I meant was that, if you boresight it for 50 yards because you don't know how to zero your scope any other way, you'll have to do it again for 75, 100, 150 yards, etc. Yes, the GUN will keep its zero, but if you want to move that zero out to a different range, you get to start your process all over again.
Besides, creating a range card is fun. Haha.
i've got that same one. mine puts the poi about 8 inches to the right at 100 with the .30 cal arbor and about 4 inches low at 50 with the .22 arbor. but it is consistent so i know how to deal with it now.
i do know how to boresight without gadgets, and i think it's a good skill to have, but i just got that one because i am an apartment dweller right now and the range i go to is fairly busy so i'd be a jerk if i was to ask the whole firing line to go cold so i could move my target back every time i shoot a shot or two (you only get one lane).
with a boresighter i can be on paper when i get there and work on my fine tuning.
The OP was talking about his Ruger 10/22. I would assume that a lot of people are sighting in their .22s at 50 yards.
Once you have sighted in your gun and change ranges,all you need to know are the ballistics/bullet drop for the rounds you are shooting and adjust the scope accordingly.