Bizzare shotgun bedding question

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by hawkchucker, Feb 11, 2011.

  1. hawkchucker

    hawkchucker New Member

    43
    0
    0
    OK I live in a small county in Ma. Our towns all share a tac. responce team and I was discussing with the sniper diff things about rifles. Being a old Marine that attended the Scout Sniper class(8/83) we discussed shots in an urban environment.

    Due to most precision police shots are under 100 yards the discussion started about for fun building a tackdriver 12.ga.

    I purchased a Mossberg 695 bolt gun that prints3 moa at 100yds, and I feel It can be tweeked to preform better. Now the gun is great but has Hot spots under the barell. It touches in some places and none in otheres. so Here is my question.

    Do you believe if I free float the barell, or do you think I will be getting too much harmonics off of it? and should I only bed the action?(planning on this at least)

    Second if I dont free float, do you believe that I should just bed the whole kit an kabootel? Relieving the hotspots

    This is actually being built just as a "ok we can do this" It isnt a really serious option for the team. So No flames on it. It is just for fun and maybe a new Deer gun for me!
     
  2. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

    4,094
    28
    48
    I've honestly never fooled with bedding slug guns before so this will be interesting to see the results. Is this slug gun scoped? Are you using premium sabot slugs? Tried several different kinds of slugs? If it was me I'd start by bedding the action & the 1st couple inches of barrel just forward of the action. That way if it don't improve you can still bed the action or put in a pressure spot in the forend.
     

  3. JonM

    JonM Moderator

    20,110
    19
    38
    i think your better off starting out by making your own slugs and reloading your own shells. most factory stuff can vary greatly in weight of both bullet/shot/slug as well as powder charge. uniformity of your ammo is the single biggest factor. QC i think is bigger factor

    after that start looking at free floating bedding etc.
     
  4. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

    13,934
    4
    0
    Look for turkey shoots these guys get serious building guns. I think a savage 220 or 210 would be a better starting point.
     
  5. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

    12,369
    57
    48
    3" at 100 yards is still smaller than the average body.

    Is there a rifled barrel for your shotgun that is designed for slugs?

    Like Bear, I would like to see how things work out.
     
  6. hawkchucker

    hawkchucker New Member

    43
    0
    0
    OK I should have gone into more detail.
    1.Yes the barell is rifled and ported well.
    2. Yes it is scoped with a 3/9 40 mm objective.
    3. Used 6 diff sabot slugs. seems to prefer Breneke Rotwiels. they printed best, and had least drop over the 100yds.
    4. It has a great pull on it. I have already trigger jobed it and it is down to a crisp 3 lbs.
    5. I think tonight I will be freefloating it to test next week. If anything dont work I can go back and bed the barell
     
  7. JTJ

    JTJ Well-Known Member Supporter

    9,677
    390
    83
    Why not just buy the new Savage bolt action 20 gauge slug gun?
     
  8. hawkchucker

    hawkchucker New Member

    43
    0
    0
    Because it is just a 20. We wanted something that would have more energy downrange. Plus it is what I had for cheap cash. Unfired mossy was 125 in store witht the rifled barell and the porting.