Been Reloading For A Week Now

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by ninjatoth, Mar 7, 2015.

  1. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    I will try to emulate. I am thinking of doing a few .357 magnums soon, planning on using 125gr XTP over about 7 grains of Titegroup, but what are your thoughts on hard cast .357 diameter LSWC's in a magnum load? The bullets i'm looking at say Brinell hardness of 15.
     
  2. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    I finally do understand the crimp die, I just wish that Lee had explained somewhere or had a legend of what part or nob is what. Just says "turn nob" and stuff like that so I was turning the whole die not understanding it, anyways I figured it out, although it looks exactly the same before and after going through that die, there is a slight difference in feel, it goes from "catchy" to less catchy while looking the same. AOL is becoming more consistent as well, especially in XTP with 90% of my rounds 1.455" to 1.456", with an occasional 1.457" or 1.454". Here's some pics of a random round, the case happens to be a little short on this one as well as some others but it's not too bad and AOL is always the same so I figure it's not a big deal. I seen Winchester new brass at my local store, is that any good? Is there a brand that is more durable than others? I'm thinking of supplementing my brass with some new ones, I only have 800 .38spl brass to date.
     

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  3. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    I was just reading an article that says you should not crimp cast lead bullets that do not have a crimp groove. Is this true? I am using the Hornady cast bullets that have the knurling etched into them but no crimp line, would crimping still be ok on these and is it normal to just not crimp cast bullets with no crimp line? Also, I been wondering at what point is the flare on the case mouth squeezed back into a straightwall again, does the seating die or crimping die do this?
     
  4. JonM

    JonM Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    that is correct. any bullet lead or not that has no cannelure should not be crimped into the bullet.

    you can place a slight roll crimp into a cannelure as that is its purpose. on a roll crimp it should not be more than about .005

    the way i find the correct ammount to crimp is size a case and use calipers to measure the outside diameter of the case mouth. then crimp until it returns the case flare back to that ammount. for a roll crimp it is set to .015 less

    the seating die is often also the crimp die

    see this post on how to setup a combo seat/crimp die

    http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f30/cannelure-magnum-loads-114397/#post1709292
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2015
  5. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    What about those Hornady lead bullets with the pre lubed knurling? I read around and someone said that they contacted Hornady, and they told them to crimp right on the knurling, but at this point it's just internet noise. It seems safe since the knurling comes out fatter than the actual "bullet" if that's a way of putting it, but I really don't know for sure.
     
  6. JonM

    JonM Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    just return the case mouth back to its sized diameter it was beore the flaring operation. crimping beyound that really does nothing. you can crimp the lead bullets at lube rings, crimpjng into the ring but it serves no real purpose

    over crimping can cause severe reliability issues with rimless cases like 45 9mm 40 etc. the headspace is offvthe case mouth so squeezing the mouth smaller can creste excess headspacd and extraction issues.

    crimping past the sized diameter gives very little to no benefit but can cause big problems. it is why i always recommend not to do any crimp beyound returnng the flared mouth to the sized diameter.
     
  7. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    What I been doing with those knurled .358 caliber bullets is putting a very light crimp on them. Lee says the factory crimp die should touch the case mouth and then be turned a half turn for a light crimp and a full turn for a heavy crimp, I have been crimping at 1/4 turn after the die touches the case mouth.
     
  8. JonM

    JonM Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Best way is measuring. Just turning randomly may be just right too much or not enough.

    the instructions given with dies are rough guild lines that allow for very basic success. I've got several Lee factory crimp dies, very good dies. But the procedure is no different If you want consistent great results.
     
  9. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    Been making some 150gr LSWC lately. It's a local brand and like them, I just used 3.4gr titegroup and lightly crimped on the crimp line which comes out to 1.465" OAL which seems right. They shoot very very accurately in my SP101 but are very dirty.
     

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  10. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    The last bullets I got were very dirty, so I just picked up some Hunter's Supply brand bullets in 158gr LSWC hard cast(.357")and loaded up and shot a few over a light .38spl case and charge. They loaded and fired very clean, accuracy seems good as well.
     

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  11. JonM

    JonM Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    looks good to me.
     
  12. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    Thanks. They load so much easier than what I have used in the past and when i'm done my hands are clean. They have what I can only describe as a boat tail on the base which aids in setting a bullet in the case, the soft lead swagged I was using did not have that feature. I just keep punching out ammo faster than I can shoot it...
     

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  13. JonM

    JonM Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    that is a boat tail. it does make loading real easy with almost no need to flare case
     
  14. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    I guess I just always thought of a boat tail as something designed for better flight on rifle bullets. I didn't know there was a place for them in handgun bullets.
     
  15. locutus

    locutus Well-Known Member Supporter

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    It is a boat tail. However, old time reloaders always refer to them as "bevel base," to distuinguish them from jacketed bullets.

    If you look in the Lyman manual at bullet molds, these show up with a "bb" suffix after the mold number to indicate bevel base.
     
  16. JonM

    JonM Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    originally developed as a labor saver eliminates the need to flare cases and then crimp.
     
  17. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    I been getting a lot of cylinder face leading on regular soft cast (150gr).358" LSWC's, a little leading on hard cast(158gr) .357" LWSC's, and no leading on Hornady knurled soft cast(158gr) .358" LSWC's. All are over 3.5gr of Titegroup. I been told other places to slug the barrel of my sp101 that I shoot these out of, but my question is, why? If .357mag/.38spl bullets generally only come in .357" and .358", what would I do if it was grossly too big or too little? I have faith in Ruger and seeing as there are usually only 2 different diameter's to choose from, I don't know what that information would do for me especially since i'm gonna share my ammo with friends who have different guns. I don't understand why the knurled Hornady bullets don't lead, but I like that they don't and might just stick with them for .38 special, I just have to either investigate my factory crimp die more as to if it taper crimps, or just buy a taper separate crimp since I got the factory crimp die I have now set to a good roll on the crimp lined or cannelured bullets I do reload sometimes.
     
  18. 25-5

    25-5 New Member

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    Try Missouri Bullets with Hi-Tek coating. I am loading some now .38 S&W. It is reviewed to keep leading to a minimum. The stuff is available to coat your own. It replaces the normal way to lube lead bullets.
     
  19. ninjatoth

    ninjatoth New Member

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    I have been looking at them for a couple months now, and have a link to their site. They seem to know a thing or two about Brinell hardness. I might have to try them.
     
  20. 25-5

    25-5 New Member

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    They are not that much more $$, and they won't gunk up the die. I'll find out this week how they perform. The .38 S&W are a kind of antique brass color.