bedding material

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by xr650rider, Mar 5, 2011.

  1. xr650rider

    xr650rider New Member

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    i have some fiberglass gel left from an automotive project, can i use that to bed my recoil lug and 1 1/2 inches of the barrel? im new to this stuff, so if thats a dumb question, im sorry.
     
  2. rifleman55

    rifleman55 New Member

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    It might work, but I would not chance it. It may compress and then you would have to grind it all out. Better to do it the right way.
    Get some Brownells Accu Glass gel or even though it's more expensive, the Steel Bed is the best bedding material out there, it won't give, compress and gives the best bedding.
    Marine Tex is good also, but I like the Brownells Steel bed because you just mix it 50-50.
    I bed all my rifles with the Steel Bed. I just got done doing my H&R 5200.
    If it's a light kicking rifle, the gel or JB Weld will be fine, a hard kicking rifle, use the Steel bed or one of the other bedding compounds with metal in them.
    I've bedded hundreds of rifles and it's best to use proper material made for bedding, that way you will not have any problems.

    John K
     

  3. xr650rider

    xr650rider New Member

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    its a model 70 lightweight 30-06 but i plan to use managed recoil ammo. just want to use up the crap i have laying around. would have to be better than no bedding at all, right?
     
  4. rifleman55

    rifleman55 New Member

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    The 30-06 is a fairly hard kicking rifle in a light stock. I'd buy a small set of the Steel bed. You can buy just the two parts, you don't need their bedding kit. It will protect the stock from cracking and will not move.
    If you are interested in the best accuracy and want something you know will last, get the right stuff.
    Be sure to put a couple thickness of electrical tape on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug before bedding. The recoil lug should touch only at the rear of the lug. Also, with a lightweight barrel, bed no more than the first inch of the barrel or you will have accuracy problems as the barrel heats from shooting.
    I'm a retired gunsmith. I've had a great deal of experience in bedding. I don't think what you have will do the job. It will crack it time from the shock of the recoil.

    It's your rifle, you can do as you wish, but I've done more than enough bedding to know what works and what does not.
    At the very least, buy some JB weld, it's cheap and works pretty good.
    Be sure to put modeling clay in any openings so you don't lock the action in the stock and use a good release agent.
    Hard floor wax works good, some use shoe wax, but I've never tried it. Brownells sells a spay on release agent, not cheap, but it's the best stuff out there.
    Take a Dremel tool and really rough up the areas the bedding will go, I cut into the wood or plastic, really rough it up to give the bedding something to get a good bite into.
    I never have had one come back.
    Make sure the barrel is centered in the stock also, you may need to put a paper wedge inbetween the barrel and stock at the front of the stock to hold the barrel so it's centered.

    You do want to bed a lightweight stock, at the least, spend $5.00 on some JB weld and do tape the recoil lug as I suggested if you want the best accuracy. One inch at the barrel max on a lightweight barrel.
    It costs so little to do it right.

    My Best, John K
     
  5. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    I recommend you use Acra-Glas gel or Steel Bed KIT. Both are available from World's Largest Supplier of Gun Parts, Gunsmith Tools & Shooting Accessories - Brownells . All they are is epoxy specially formulated for bedding rifles. I personally use Acra-Glas gel. It don't run like the regular stuff does. I'd also recommend you buy the kit as it includes not only excellent instructions, but also everything you'll need including stain, measure, and release agent. You'll DEFINITELY need to follow the instructions to the letter when using the release agent. Another thing is to get some modeling clay to act as dams to prevent the bedding material from running places you don't want it to.
     
  6. xr650rider

    xr650rider New Member

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    thanks guys, im going to buy a bedding kit with everything in it. i already ground out the yellowish epoxy that winchester had in the recoil lug area. now the whole action fell all the way into the barrel channel. could i build up the barrel channel with duct tape to hold the barrel up so the front of the action doesnt sink so far down? and let the bedding cure so it will kinda float the barrel too.
     
  7. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    Yes you could use duct tape but I prefer electrical tape-less sticky goo left on the barrel that way. Be careful not to overtighten the action screws if you use them and put PLENTY of release agent on everything.
     
  8. xr650rider

    xr650rider New Member

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    thanks stalkingbear. nice elk in your profile pic. we have elk running around here in elk co. pa. tourists love them, locals hate them. but the goverment looks at it as, the elk bring money into the area.(for hotels, diners, stores, etc.) so they love the elk. to me they are just another deer, just much bigger. dave
     
  9. Mossyoakman3006

    Mossyoakman3006 New Member

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    What about DEVCON 10760 titanium watched a couple of vids and it seems like the way to go, I no little to nothing about bedding but I wanna get my 700 bedded and I would like to make sure he uses the best stuff out there
     
  10. xr650rider

    xr650rider New Member

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    thanks for the input mossyoakman3006. i already ordered a kit from midway usa. it will be my first bedding job, but i feel that i have read enough up on it that i should do a "good" job. and if it doesnt go well, i will prob pick up a boyds thumbhole stock and give it another try. i really like he looks of a laminated thumbhole stock.
     
  11. rifleman55

    rifleman55 New Member

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    The Devcon is good, it's just that it's measured by weight, the Brownells products are just 50-50. Much easier to mix accuratly.
    I much prefer the Steel bed for hard kickers or just to use in the recoil lug area, then use the less expensive accu-gel for the rest of the bedding.
    Use the Steel bed first, onece hardened, bed the rest with the gel.

    I use the Steel bed for everything. Two 8 OZ jars are not cheap, but will do a lot of guns. I've had the same two jars for a couple of years, it has not gone bad, even when I left it in my shed in sub zero temps by accident.
    The thing with the steel bed is that it will not crumble like some others will, gives a good smooth surface and goes on really well. Be sure to mix the two parts well, scrape the bottom of whatever the compound is on to get the material. Mix slow, you do not want to get air bubbles into the mix.

    The Brownells spray release is again not cheap, but is the best thing going.
    I use it or hard floor paste wax as a release agent.

    On most epoxy products, when the action goes in the stock and is tightened, epoxy will ozze out. Use cut pointed popcycle sticks to scrape as much as possible off and then use alochol on a paper towel to remove the excess of stuff you can get to with the sticks. The alochol will remove the excess and really cleans up the stock and metal nice. Check when finished, you may have got some from your fingers or drips on the stock. The alochol on the paper towel will remove the epoxy before dried.

    Many people, especially if not used to how much to use, tape the stock with blue painters tape. It protects the stocks.
    Use more than less if you have never used bedding before. Use about a 1/8" thick layer on most parts.
    Be sure to double check for any areas that will lock the action in, fill with clay.

    If the action does not want to come out, throw the rifle in a deep freeze for about 12 hours, the action will come out much easier. You can also try heat, but deep freeze works better.

    Put the action screws in the stock before spreading the bedding compound, hold them in with tape. When you mate the action and stock, do so slowly so you can start the screws in the holes of the action. If you get bedding compound in the screw holes, you may not be able to fully tighten them and pull the action down into the stock. If that happens, tighten them as much as possible, the with pads, clamp the action right in the middle to hold it in the stock.
    Be sure to have everything ready before starting. If new, make a check list, you have plenty of time to work, but it's best to have everthing right there.

    Put release agent on the screws and in the screw holes.
    I like to just crack the screws a little loose at 12 hours, then re tighten. It assures the screws will not be epoxyed tight.

    It's not hard to do. Strip everything off of the action before starting, use the modeling clay to close off all openings.
    It will go pretty easy, take your time. You will be surprised at how well it comes out.

    I do recommend using a little more compound in the stock then you think you will need. Going back later to fill holes or places where the bedding did not fill all the way is not easy, it usually wants to spread out a little and lift the original bedding off the action a little.

    A dremel tool, files and an xacto knife will remove the excess later.
    Many times you can catch it when the epoxy is still just soft enough that the excess can be cut with the xacto knife with some effort.

    Do double check to insure the barrel is not touching anywhere before bedding, rough up the areas to be bedded, I cut channels with a dremel tool and drill holes to give the bedding something to really get ahold of, especially with a synthetic stock. On a synthetic stock, carb spray cleaner on a rag will remove any oils from the stock, something that needs to be done. You really need to drill, rough up, carve channels whatever on a synthetic stock, the bedding does not stick to smooth parts of the stock, it needs something to bite and hold onto.

    If your rifle has a recoil lug, use wide electrical tape. Tape the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug with 2 to 3 layers of tape. Use a razor to cut the tape at the edges of the lug.
    The only part of a recoil lug that should touch the action is the back of the lug that hits the front of the recess. You do not want the lug to touch anywhere else but the back or you will hurt accuracy.

    I like to bed the first inch of the barrel except a thin, lightweight hunting barrel, I only bed the first 1/2". You can make a clay dam to keep the bedding from going further forward. Thin hunting barrels bedded beyond the action will really hurt the accuracy, as they heat, they will want to bend upwards.

    Should you want to bed the whole barrel channel, but keep the barrel free floated (highly recommended), wrap the barrel where it will be in the stock with 4 layers of electrical tape, be sure to put release agent on the tape.
    This will keep a space between the stock and barrel when the tape is removed afterwards.

    I was a Gunsmith for many years and have bedded hundreds of stocks, the things I have posted work, give them a try.

    My Best, John K
     
  12. rifleman55

    rifleman55 New Member

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    The Titanium would be lighter weight, but no stronger than the steel bed.
    I think you have to look at the percentage of metal in the epoxy.
    The percentage of stainless steel in the Brownells Steel bed is really high, I forget now, but it seems it was 79%.
    The more metal, the harder the bedding will be. No advantage as far as which metal to use, they are both hard, one weighs a little less, but overall percentage of metal in the epoxy is what I look at.
    I cannot see where the Devcon would have an advantage, it's more of a preference thing, both are very good compounds.
    I've used both and always go back to the Brownells due to ease of use and high stainless steel content.
    I've never had a proplem with the Steel Bed, the bedding comes out perfect everytime and stands up to anything. A picture of the H&R 5200 I just Steel Bedded. It still needed a little clean up, but it gives you n idea of what it looks like. It's the best bedding compound in my opinion.
    [​IMG]


    John K
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2011
  13. Old_School

    Old_School New Member

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    What's your opinion of pillar bedding in a wood stock? Doesn't it keep the wood from compressing when tightening down the action screws?
     
  14. xr650rider

    xr650rider New Member

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    i myself would not attempt pillar bedding my stock. the rear action screw is too close to the trigger area to drill a nice "square" hole down into the stock. i dont need a tack driver, just an accurate deer slayer.