Jeep - I am going to have to default to Bear or someone like that as I have never had to glass bed a Mauser before.

If it helps, the idea behind bedding is to alleviate stresses on the barrel, just an inch or so infront of the recoil lug or action, and give it a hand in glove fit to the stock so you can get the most surface area secured when it's bolted in place.

Ideally you don't want any gaps in the bedding area unless you have to cut relief for an external magazine or for the safety to move ( like on the Remy 700 ).

Good luck and remember: Release Agent is your friend.

 

I am stumped here JD. I have done a few 700's (I know, I know ) and a Stevens 200 with good results, but it's easier to see where the goop needs to go with those, in my opinion.

This thing is turning from a "project" into an albatross. I started with a beautiful VZ action and way cheap short chambered Adams and Benett barrel. I want to absolutely burn this barrel up pushing 40 grain pills as fast as I can (sorta to Tango-esque). I think I can break 4400 fps. with Accurate AA-2520 and a 40 grain Ballistic Tip. I just want to do a half way decent job bedding in hopes of installing a decent barrel for better accuracy when I'm done dicking around with speed.

 

You want to bed the back of the recoil lug, the flat directly under the front receiver ring, the tang, the bottom of the front ring in front of the recoil lug, and the 1st couple inches of the barrel in front of the action. Be sure after you get done that the sides and front of the recoil lug area don't touch the lug. It makes no sense to do the sides but DOES make a lot of sense to use pillars if you're so inclined.

What I do is with a small ball wood rasp bit in the Dremel I relieve the areas that I'm going to bed down the width of the bit's diameter and leave it rough. Leaving it rough allows the bedding to have purchase to bond with the wood. You'll want to leave "islands" so that you still have the exact same depth in the stock. What I use is Acraglas Gel and mix in a little fine aluminum shavings sometimes. Hope this helps and holler if you have more questions or I wasn't clear.

 

Bear, I will sign my life insurance over to you. I have been looking and looking with no decent, direct, definitive answer. Thank you a million, and then some. (I'll let you know if I break 4400. If you don't hear from me, you might be getting a check ^^^^^)

 

Always glad to help. Glad I could be of some assistance.

 

Any advice on this? I've read don't do under the tang, only the rear. Do under the tang and the rear but not the sides. Some use pillars and some say pillars are no help on a 98. I am open to more opinions.

My thought was to do the first few inches ahead of the chamber, the rear of the recoil lug and under the tang.

The stock is a Richards Micro Fit Bench Mark, "99% press fit". It certainly was a press fit, and everything fit well but obviously tight. I relieved the bottom of the tang and just forward of the front ring. It drops in easily now. Not a lot of clearance but not forced in. I am wondering how much clearance I need before adding bedding material. I'd like to keep it as thin as possible and just "skim" it ,if that will be beneficial. This will not be a wet weather gun. Bright, sunny, warm days zapping 'chucks. Not a lot of recoil either as it's a .220 Swift. Any thought would be appreciated.

The tang is the most rear part of the action>>>
When I did my Swede '98 in a Boyds stock, it was tight, but the barrel is completely free froated.