Beavertail install issue - adaptable or order another?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by LongBaller71, Aug 23, 2012.

  1. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Bought a beavertail to put on my RIA. Not sure of the maker as it was a spare takeoff part. Looks unused, but it's not gonna fit now that I have it. The inner tang on the GS that I purchased turned out to be flush with the side of the GS rather than offset inside by 1/16". With it flush to the side, it is hitting part of the trigger slot on the frame and not allowing it to fit in all the way. I know I can't alter the GS to get that offset, but can I buff down about an 1/8th inch of that slot and still have the GS function? Don't want to do it if it could cause other issues. I may have to just order another GS, but wanted to ask the experts here first.

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  2. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    It's hard to see in the pics. You should be able to work on the part to get it to fit.
     

  3. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Here's a couple more pics. Not sure what I could do to the part other than take material off the outside of that tang. But surely that would make it too thin if I took off enough to clear the trigger groove bump. Would it be safe to take off just a little of that top trigger groove bump?

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  4. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    I think I'm gonna have to refer you to cane on this one.
     
  5. triggerjob

    triggerjob New Member

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    The grip safty works by blocking the trigger bar. The pecker that sticks out the front does the blocking. The lengnth of the pecker as well as a slight positive cant on the engageing surface is what matters when fitting. You can sand file hammer or do whatever you want to the rest of the grip safty as long as when it is installed it blocks the trigger and remains in place if you pull the trigger without squeezing the grip.

    so basically dont mess with the legnth of the pecker unless you intend to change how the grip safty engages.

    Incidently, it may be too long, too short, or have the wrong engagement angle, hovever none of that matters untill you can actually fit it in the frame, and pin it in place
     
  6. triggerjob

    triggerjob New Member

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    If it were me, id do one of two things, sand boths sides of the new beaver tail untill it slides into frame, you should be ok taking a few thousands of the width of the pecker. Having said that i dont think that beaver tail will work good on your gun anyway, it may not engage the trigger bar, as it looks farther to the right than the olde one.

    Better for you would be to take old safty to a welding shop have them add a chunk load of new metal aro7nd the tang, then you can file sand and polish your own custom tail which will fit ur gun.

    Generally speaking, you dont want to file your frame, adjust the cheaper part to ffit the mlre expensive one.
     
  7. triggerjob

    triggerjob New Member

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    I just took a closer look at your frame and he new beaver tail, im about 90% sure it is not going to no matter what you do. The best bet is to weld up the tang on your old safty and file it to a shape you like.

    The pecker on the new safty wont fit unless you chop it off and move it left into the same plane as the old one. As this would require more work than a beaver tail is worth, just weld up the old one.
     
  8. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Thanks very much guys! I figured I may as well try thinning the pecker to see if it would fit in around that groove bump. If it didn't work, I was already going to need another GS, so why not.

    Well, it worked! I was able to take off just about 1/32 and it slid right in. Looks like it should still hit the right spots, but I'll know more when I get it further together. The thumb safety fit in and I've got the right amount of play. Now to finish sand and polish the frame tangs and start testing all functions again. Not sure if I'm going to re-parkerize or go the duracoat route.

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  9. triggerjob

    triggerjob New Member

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    Lol,
    To answer your question, you should be ok trimming that ledge on the inside of the frame. Sorry for my other convoluted answers, i lost your question while observing the pics.
     
  10. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    LoL! No worries! I thought it might be better to avoid messing with the ledge if possible. I may be handy, but I'm no 'smith for sure!

    I'll get a few better pics of the fit in a bit when I get back from the store. Still have a lot of minor blending and polish work to do on the frame.

    Thanks again for the input!!
     
  11. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Got it all together. Still a bit to do. Everything seems to work ok, except the hammer isn't locking back at half cock and full cock when pulled back by itself with my thumb. Locks back fine when I rack the slide though. Not sure what that is. Hope I can figure it out when I take it back down.

    Not to shabby for never doing this kind oh thing before, IMO. Here's a few more pics:

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  12. DrumJunkie

    DrumJunkie New Member

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    Man I want those grips!
     
  13. kytowboater

    kytowboater Active Member

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    Maybe the sear spring installed incorrectly??
     
  14. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Thanks DJ. Made those up recently.


    Certainly sounds like the seat spring might not be seated correctly. I'll be breaking it down tmrw morning to check it all out again and thoroughly clean and degrease it. I want to make sure it's all correct and running properly before I do any refinishing work. Not sure if I want to duracoat it or send it off to get something else.
     
  15. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Where did you buy it from?

    Brownell's has a no question return policy.
     
  16. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Hey Dan. I bought it from a member at another forum. It was a take off piece that he had lying around.

    It was my fault for not asking better questions about it. Couldn't tell the offset was different in the pics. Honestly didn't know they came that way.

    Looks like I got it in and it should work. If not, I've got a WC commander drop in coming now just in case.
     
  17. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Hammer cock all fixed. The sear spring was not engaged properly on the left side. It makes a big difference if it's put in right!

    Now .....

    What the heck should I do with the gun finish? Needs the rear tangs done as well as the GS at the minimum. Go the cheap route and Duracoat the whole gun myself; go the cheaper route and just cold blue the exposed parts, or go the pro route and send it off somewhere???

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  18. tacticalfun

    tacticalfun Active Member

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  19. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Dang! That looks awesome! If money were no object, I'd jump in a heartbeat. Have to be honest though; not sure my RIA is gonna warrant a finish that costs as much as the gun did. Dang it sucks to be a cheap a$$. LoL!!
     
  20. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Well I've got my answer on the finish. My FIL just told me that he ordered the Duracoat stainless Shake & Spray kit for my birthday gift. Guess he was listening pretty close. Now it's time to get it all prepped and ready. Wish me luck!!