[proffitt]

Start this as something fun afforable learning experince. My question since this a free floating barrel stock how much should i allow between the gun and stock if any?

 

[mountainman13]

Depending on how well the stock is made it should just be a better of selling the action in. You should be able to slide a piece of paper in between the barrel and stock up to the lugs. Doesn't take much. Just keep in mind that your nagant might not like being free floating and you may have to tension the barrel.

 

[jpattersonnh]

Correct. The Finns often put a shim under the front of the barrel at the end of the stock.

 

[Werminator]

I put this stock in one of my 91/30s and it has contact points in several areas... after cutting the barrel down I found it to be of no consequence as the gun still shoots well...

 

[proffitt]

Ok thanks guys. Got the stock in seems to rock a lil but im ok with a little bit of sanding. Love the feel and weight reduction. Next think i will eeplace the roll pin on the trigger with one rhat has tighter fit

 

[dteed4094]

Ok thanks guys. Got the stock in seems to rock a lil but im ok with a little bit of sanding. Love the feel and weight reduction. Next think i will eeplace the roll pin on the trigger with one rhat has tighter fit

It took hours to float mine, I removed an excessive amount of material and when I went to chamber the first round it wouldnt go into the magazine because more material had to be removed to allow the interupter sufficent room to opperate. The rock is more than likely at the Lug.

 

[proffitt]

Here is the fruit of my labor. Im getting 2 moa at 100 yds

 

[HM2Grunt]

This looks like a good place to ask this question. How will the group sizes be, in successive firings of five rounds if a previously un-floated barrel heats up? I have experienced the following: This rifle is a sniper with a PU scope that I put on, 1930 barrel/receiver. At fifty yards, sighting in at point of aim, the first group from a clean cold barrel is about 1.5 inches, shots 6 through 10 are all practically through the same hole. Shots 11 through 15 are so tight a paste-er will cover them all up. 16 through 20 begin group at 2 inches. Shots 21 through 25 open up another inch. Shots 26 through 30 are very depressing. These groups were shot over a period of an hour, with the barrel given enough time to cool as it takes to walk down and check the target. It was not hot out, and the barrel was never hot enough to cause discomfort by touching with hand. I was shooting from a bench rest with the rifle resting under the rear sight, rock steady with a lightened trigger. The receiver is bedded with cork. Does anybody have any idea what is going on?

 

[primer1]

Scope tight? What are you using for ammo?

 

[phildenton]

The trigger contact point can be shimmed as well, just be warned that its not advisable to mess with the trigger, be careful not to over-shim, done correctly you can get it to break like a single action trigger on a revolver.

 

[dteed4094]

Shimming the receiver with cork would seem to be counter productive as you want the receiver to be solid to the stock. Glass beding can accomplish this. When cork is used it is generally put under the front end of the stock to reduce barrel whip and enhance barrel harmonics. What kind of ammo are you using?

 

[HM2Grunt]

The scope has been a problem in the past, shooting loose. I have since replace the indexing pins of the mount with drilled and tapped hex screws, and have Loc-tited all other screws. The ammo that I use is Bulgarian 1982 which as I have said, can give extremely tight groups. I have replaced the Russian trigger with a Finn for a two stage feel. I have also thinned the sear spring, and honed the front and top of the sear square and smooth, to a very sharp edge. I don't feel that I have compromised the safety of the trigger as I have tested it by dropping the rifle cocked, butt down from a height of about 12 inches onto the carpeted floor, and it has not fired in up to 4 successive drops. (For the purists out there, the rifle was not loaded) My goal is to shoot the smallest group possible, with the least invasive changes made on the rifle. I am interested in seeing what is possible from this type rifle and scope, and I am experiencing previously noted enlargement of group sizes.

 

[HM2Grunt]

to dteed4094, Thanks for your interest. The stock that I have is an old pre WW2 and the trigger guard screws would not tighten up securely. I can't quote the source now, but in my readings I found that the Soviets used cork to bed the stock. I don't want to make such a non-period change as to use fiber glass, and the cork can easily be removed if it doesn't work out.

 

[dteed4094]

The Ruskies Corked the Forestock To check the safety of the trigger, close the bolt and pry up on the rear of the bolt with considerable pressure. if the sear releases its not safe. I did all the easy fixes to 5 o my Mosins and then returned them back to origional condition and bought 1 timney or my favorite.It cost more than the rifle but has a thumb safety and breaks like glass now.Still can't rely on a tight group. I will shoot modern factory loads before i try anything else. I have got 0ne 5 shot group of 2 MOA which would satisfy me i it would do that consistantly. The gun can be returned to origional in a few minutes It is a fun project trying to tighten up the group. the next mod is glass beding.

 

[phildenton]

I used cork in various spots, seems to have helped some on mine

 

[HM2Grunt]

I fired this sniper today, and got about the same results as before. I had free floated the entire barrel, but never got the groups as small as the last time. Tried to put some card stock under the barrel at the end of the stock, and the resulting groups look like a small shotgun blast. As I cannot free float the barrel any more, I even sanded down the high spots on the hand guard that I could see shine on from rubbing on the barrel. I guess I will try to bed the barrel in the stock. This pre-WW2 stock is quite slender, and is warped to the left. I can't remove any more wood on the right side of the barrel with out really thinning the wood. I already have a sniper that I fiber-glassed and pillar bedded the stock. I have put a Timney trigger on it. I don't want to do those things to the sniper I am currently working on because I want the rifle to be like that available to a Soviet trooper in Stalingrad. This rifle was not hand picked, and married to a scope and mount at the factory so it will never be totally original. Other than buying an original, any Ideas about making this thing shoot straight? Do I need another, stouter stock like a laminated one? Again, my goals are to shoot the tightest groups the Mosin is able to do, and to keep it as original as possible to what was in use during the war.

 

[TheAlmightyBob]

Hm, have you check the muzzle? I know that some barrels were back bored(sp?) To correct a worn muzzle bore. Maybe your is worn too much, or a bad job back boring it?

 

[HM2Grunt]

Hm, have you check the muzzle? I know that some barrels were back bored(sp?) To correct a worn muzzle bore. Maybe your is worn too much, or a bad job back boring it?

None of mine are back bored. I have been pondering if having a barrel re-crowned would be worth the expense, or just another way to throw some money into an old $90 rifle. I see good rifling down in there. If I had access to a metal lathe it more than likely happen to at least one of mine, just to see if it made a difference.

 

[dteed4094]

My irst 91/30 was counter bored, It is also my best shooter.