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Not permanent. The crush washer is sacrificial. Thats why they only cost like a dollar.
Having said that though, the brake isn't really something you take on and off... not gonna hurt anything mind you, just not generally something folks take on and off all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Not permanent. The crush washer is sacrificial. Thats why they only cost like a dollar.
Having said that though, the brake isn't really something you take on and off... not gonna hurt anything mind you, just not generally something folks take on and off all the time.
Gotcha, well I just bought it just to have something to play with on the new barrel to keep me busy besides just having the thread protector on there.

But I mean, it’s fine to take on and off right?
 

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Yeah, not gonna really hurt anything. Just want to make sure whatever is hanging off your barrel is tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Yeah, not gonna really hurt anything. Just want to make sure whatever is hanging off your barrel is tight.
Yeah, I always makes sure it’s tight, not crazy tight but good enough so it doesn’t come loose either.

Really appreciate the help guys! Thank you! will post some better pics of it tomorrow after shooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Ok, so I just finished firing 4 test rounds.
These are 115 grain 9mm.


• 2 with the thread protector
• 2 with the muzzle brake

Now the gun fired and cycled perfectly fine with the thread protector attached.

Then I threaded on the muzzle brake, fired and the slide didn’t cycle, trigger didn't reset. And so I took the mag out, manually cycled the slide to eject the shell casing and reinserted the mag with 1 round left. Fired again, this time the trigger reset just fine, but the slide still didn’t cycle or lock to the rear on the last round. And so again I had to manually cycle the slide to eject the shell casing.

Other then that it fires fine with the muzzle brake, but it’s single action instead of semi-auto.

I read some research a while back when I was in the process of thinking of buying a muzzle brake. And I think it’s because I’m using light rounds (115 grain) which could potentially cause either malfunctions or cause the slide to not cycle at all and so you have to manually cycle the slide to chamber the next round. And I think my light rounds just don’t produce enough gas to cycle the slide since most of it is lost due to the brake.

So I think I just need heavier rounds like 147 grain or so, am I correct?

Definitely a lot louder with the brake (so much for ear protection lol) noticed a slight decrease in muzzle climb, but as I said for a $15 range toy, I knew I would run into at least 1 little problem. So not a big deal, I still like it.

Runs perfect with the thread protector, but I think I just need heavier rounds if I wanna keep running the brake without having to manually rack the slide after each round fired.
 

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If both are 1/2 by 28 in the same direction thread, yes they'll work. IMO there would be no benefit but a lot of drawback. I would not do it. Makes the gun 1) less reliable with a big piece of metal hangining off the barrel, 2) louder for the user, and 3) larger so carry is more difficult, larger profile, without adding ANY appreciable benefit. 9mm doesn't recoil much so recoil is not an issue with this gun.

If you're looking for noise redirection, try a linear comp. They do work well to mitigate user-perceived sound by redirecting the gases forward. But be advised, I tried one on my CZ and it turned the very ultra reliable gun into a jam-o-matic with constant failures to eject. So it would probably need a weaker recoil spring, which would punish the gun more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
If both are 1/2 by 28 in the same direction thread, yes they'll work. IMO there would be no benefit but a lot of drawback. I would not do it. Makes the gun 1) less reliable with a big piece of metal hangining off the barrel, 2) louder for the user, and 3) larger so carry is more difficult, larger profile, without adding ANY appreciable benefit. 9mm doesn't recoil much so recoil is not an issue with this gun.

If you're looking for noise redirection, try a linear comp. They do work well to mitigate user-perceived sound by redirecting the gases forward. But be advised, I tried one on my CZ and it turned the very ultra reliable gun into a jam-o-matic with constant failures to eject. So it would probably need a weaker recoil spring, which would punish the gun more.
Gotcha, I don’t plan on using it a whole lot.
The threaded barrel is for a future suppressor but for $15, I threw in a brake just to play with in the mean time. I knew a cheap brake wouldn’t be reliable and I may run into some kind of a little problem. But It’s just one extra thing to have other then a thread protector. And for a range toy, it’s fine.

And yeah I’m not carrying with a brake lol, the threaded barrel with thread protector stays on and that’s about it.
 

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Hotter ammo would probably make it cycle... i would guess. Ive never run a brake on a semi auto pistol.
 
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