AR Tips - Some Tricks of the Trade

Discussion in 'AR-15 Discussion' started by Sniper03, Mar 23, 2011.

  1. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    JonnyV,

    You mentioned some scratches on your receiver!
    If your receiver is the standard dark anodizing here is how to touch up those scratches. It will not take care of any gouges but will do a great job on the cosmetic finish. We use this technique in our schools.

    Using one of the Small Ronson type torches that you can get from Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot or a hardware for around $26.00. They refill with a cigarette lighter refill canister and three or four various tips. We do not use any of the tips when performing the below operation. The one I have is made by Ronson. Here is how it goes:
    1. Use Break and Parts Cleaner or Gun Scrubber on the area to remove all lube.
    2. Use Birchwood Casey Aluma-Black Metal Finish
    3. Use a Que-tip to apply when ready to touch up
    4. Hold the torch aprox. 3" away from the Receiver *Do not over heat!
    5. Warm the area with the torch while applying the Aluma-Black with the Que-
    tip on the area.
    6. Use the torch to reheat the area while applying the Aluma-Black and then
    repeat this process until you are satisfied with the finish repair.
    * Once again do not over heat the area.
    But by heating the surface it opens up the pores in the metal and allows the
    Aluma-Black to be absorbed by the T-6 aluminum.
    7. Apply lube to the finished area since it will be totally absent of any lube
    when you are finished.
    Please PM me if you have any questions or are not clear on the procedures.

    03
     
  2. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    Bolt Catch Assembly Help

    One little trick to do in regard to installing the Bolt Catch and protecting your Receiver from finish damage. When installing the Bolt Catch on the Lower Receiver you can help protect the finish while putting in the Roll Pin by putting a strip of electrical tape lengthwise on the side of the Receiver. So that if you do accidently contact the Receiver with the punch it will not damage the anodizing or what ever finish you have. Also a Bolt Catch Punch from Brownells is a good tool to have.


    Hope these ideas help!

    03
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 23, 2011

  3. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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    Condensed them both for you '03. Had to change the title a bit to make it work, but I think this could be a very useful thread.

    Thanks for taking the time.

    JD
     
  4. ktmboyz

    ktmboyz New Member

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    Great thread S-03 I will have to try that touch up tip. I put a spot or two on my last upper build, not bad but I look at them everytime I pick it up :eek:

    I have figured out a quick process on that pesky spring and detent on the front take down pin that usually launches across the room. I take a set of hemostats and clamp the detent in them then use that to push the spring in, then hold pressure on it with the take down pin and release the clamp. Makes it super easy and takes about 30 sec.

    I also cover any part of the reciever I get near with masking tape. I can now do my lowers without any markings except the ends of the roll pins. The upper was my first expecience and didn't have the proper tooling.
     
  5. WoodysKJ

    WoodysKJ New Member

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    This might need to be a sticky if more tips are added.
     
  6. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    JD

    Thanks for your assistance. It will also blacken the trigger and hammer pins if the guys have some shiny ones!

    Take Care 03
     
  7. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    KTM & JD

    A pair of hemostats also works well on holding the short tab of the Ejection Port Spring and turning it. You keep the hemostats in a "horizontal position with the receiver" while installing the spring and rod. Push the rod ("Only!) 1/2 way into the spring. Then go in from the rear side of the receiver with the hemostats. (Horizontal with Receiver Only) a Vertical hold will damage the spring. Grab the short tab of the ejection port spring. Looking toward the front of the receiver pick the short tab up and rotate it 180 degrees clockwise and lay it back down. The Hemostat will hold the spring tab "by itself" while you guide in the Ejection Port Door Rod to final position on the receiver. Then simply take the hemostat off and check the door to assure it works. Much easier than fighting with than d---- short spring tab.

    03
     
  8. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    By the way! Works on repairing the ejection port door spring in the assembled weapon. You just need to remove the Ejection Port Door Rod Clip. Move the rod to the rear of the receiver. It will not go all the way out the back due to the forward assist. You reverse the assembly procedure moving the rod to the rear and lifting the long leg on the front of the spring with the hemostats positioned horizontally from the front of the receiver. Reinstalling the rod and replace the Clip. If you have a real small set of hemostats you can remove the clip with them and reinstall it with them. I leave the clip in the small hemostats while repairing and use them to reinstall the clip.
    Guys will damage that spring by getting cleaning patches hung up and then pulling the patch. Therefore damaging the spring and allowing the door to flip and flop.

    03
     
  9. AgentTikki

    AgentTikki New Member

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    Quick tip when installing your forward pivot pin....

    To keep detents and springs from flying into oblivion, hold it down with a razor blade.
    Then slide the pivot pin into place and allow the detent to pop into the groove of the pivot pin.

    Also as added insurance, get a big plastic bag or cardboardbox and do you install inside it...just in case.
     
  10. Ozz2g

    Ozz2g New Member

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    I used a piece of 1/4" round bar, drilled a 3/32" hole on one side. Lined the hole up to the detent hole. Dropped in the spring & detent, and pushed them down with a 3/32 pin punch. I was then able to turn the round bar so it kept the detent in place while I lined up my pivot pin, then I pushed in the pivot pin aginst the round bar. Works perfect. You can buy a tool like it for $4, but I had the round bar and not the time to wait for shipping.
     
  11. DKEnterprises

    DKEnterprises New Member

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    You know they make tools for that? A butter knife. Lol.
     
  12. johnrhino123

    johnrhino123 New Member

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    i used a snow blower shear pin worked great
     
  13. fsted2a

    fsted2a Active Member

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    Barrel aligning tip

    When you are installing the barrel, the pin on it that goes into the slot in the upper receiver will have a little play in it. If you don't have a way to hold it centered, when you tighten the barrel nut, it will go to the shooters left a tiny bit, just enough to put the shooters sights about 2 1/2 to 3 inches off at 35 yards when he is trying to zero. To keep this from happening, the bigger companies have a high dollar alignment tool to hold the barrel centered while the nut is torqued down. My solution is to put a toothpick on each side of the pin, then snip it off before i tighten the barrel nut. It isn't perfect, but it keeps the front sight post reasonably in alignment. Nowadays with more and more AR's using a freefloat hand guard with the rail on top, that isn't so much of an issue anymore, but I thought I would share the tip with anyone using old style front sight post.
     
  14. BWM243

    BWM243 Member

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    You can also use a hair blower on high and it will also work it takes a little longer but you do not over heat it.
     
  15. Turn11

    Turn11 New Member Supporter

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    Bump

    Is AlumaBlack the same as AluminumBlack
     
  16. Triumphman

    Triumphman Active Member

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    Aftermarket Gas Blocks and Barrel Port Hole Alignment

    You've decided to build your AR and got a nice aftermarket gas block, a barrel without the FSB pin cutouts, but now how do you align the block to the barrel's port hole, to know you're getting all the gas needed to operate the BCG.

    Here's my little trick I use that's worked on all the AR's I've built. All gas blocks I've used have been steel, so if you use another metal alloy, use more caution when tightening down the block lock screws, as stripping is possible.

    Once you have assembled the gas tube to the gas block, you slip the completed assembly onto the barrel and receiver hole position.

    Now, if your gas block uses lock-down screws, install just one, but just barely snug it onto the barrel just enough to allow gas block movement with little resistance to help in alignment without being sloppy loose.

    Grab a can of computer compressed air w/wand. You stick the can's air wand into the metal gas tube of gun. While one hand operates the compressed gas, the other hand will slowly rotate left to right and push/pull either front to back while listening to the air being blown through the tube. You'll hear the air either being cut off while turning one way or other and the sliding of gas block towards the barrel end or how far back to the barrel's gas block seat stop.

    What you want is finding the best air flow given and once it's found you wrap your fingers around the gas block and barrel to keep aligned and remove the air supply. Then grab the hex screw tool and tighten down the 1(one) screw enough to hold everything in place.

    Now look down from top at whole assembly. What you should see is the gas block, gas tube(if not bent), is everything in alignment with the centerbore of the barrel.

    You'll find that all gas blocks have quite a bit of adjustable leeway for alignment before cutting off any air. Onto next step.

    Get Charging Handle, BCG and slip into Receiver and watch how gas tube alignment and the BCG's gas key are interconnecting. There will be some slight resistance because gas tube has a small bulge just fractions from the tip that helps seal the gas key, but as long as the gas key and gas tube don't collide tip edges, but appear to slide within itself, you're GTG.

    Get blue Loc-tite and install couple drops onto the 2nd(second) hex screw that was not installed. Now install and lock down tightly. Remove the first installed screw from gas block and put some Loc-tite onto it and lock down onto the barrel tightly.

    You have now installed a gas block that allows all the gas it's capable of flowing to the BCG and you can now put on handguard or free float tube assembly.

    Now, if the barrel's port hole is open to required size from the manufacturer, you know you'll always have enough gas, but this procedure still doesn't mean you don't tune your rifle for best effects of shooting, in that it still might require a heavier buffer, or using a heavier M16 Carrier over the slightly lighter AR15 semiauto Carrier, and testing all ammos for operation of what gun likes or doesn't like.

    Triumphman
     
  17. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

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    Just built 2 ARs, get a magpul BevBlock... Makes life so simple.

    Instead of hammering in roll pins, use a Channel Lock with electrical tape wrapped around the teeth to squeeze the pins into place.

    Use a magnetic parts tray, or a deep Tupperware container... Lest you bump your table and spend 30 minutes looking for a tiny pin.

    Lube up your pins and such before you install them.

    A headlamp is amazing for seeing what you're working on.

    A nice pair of hemostats works great for grabbing small parts.

    Some tips I found out.

    1st build took me 2 hours to figure out. Second build took 30 minutes.