**ar sight removal**

Discussion in 'Auto & Semi-Auto Discussion' started by blackguns3000, Dec 24, 2011.

  1. blackguns3000

    blackguns3000 New Member

    Is there a special trick I can use to take out the pins myself? If I have to I may drill or cut, but would rather not if I can get around it. If I drill through the pins will I damage the barrel? If no damage, is that all it needs to slide the sight off? Special tool to use probably? Is my only real option a gunsmith? Because where I live there are no gunsmiths close by. Would like to get the sight off so I can mount my new hand rail, but would like to save the sight if possible. Can I cut (and probably trash) the sight off, without hurting the barrel? And perhaps use a removable sight in its place.
  2. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

    I am assuming that you are referring to a standard A2 style sight base...do not damage it in any way, it is also the gas block for your rifle and damage will negatively effect the rifle's operation.

    To remove locate the "big" side of the pins, generally the left side when viewing from the rear. The pins are tapered and will only go out right to left. Using a pin punch, dead blow mallet and a vice you should be able to drift the pins out. Bear in mind, however, that some rifles require extreme force to get the damned things out. WD-40 or some other penetrating oil may be helpful, if all else fails have a gunsmith press them out for you. Better to spend a few extra dollars than bend or damage the barrel or receiver. If you have to dremel them out be prepared to reinstall a replacement gas block, low profile for under the foregrip or railed to accept a BUIS. The sight is an option, the gas block is not.

    Last edited: Dec 25, 2011

  3. BillM

    BillM Active Member Supporter

    Short pin punch (sometimes called a "starter" punch) that is just under
    the diameter of the small end of the tapered pins. Sometimes hard to find.
    Just cut down a longer one. 3/4" of "skinny" part is plenty.

    Barrel in a solid vise works, soft jaws, leather glove, cardboard--something
    to keep the jaws from marring the finish. I prefer laying it down on hardwood
    blocks so the pins are vertical so I can hit straight down. Dense plastic,
    metal with THIN padding---you want it solid, with no cushion.

    I prefer a good steel hammer. 3 to 4 lbs, with a fairly flat face.
    The short handled type they call a "drilling hammer" is what
    I usually reach for.

    Get everything supported and lined up, and HIT it. Not a wild over the
    head swing, just a short sharp aimed WHACK. I've never had it take
    more than maybe 4 whacks to get the pin moving.
  4. Quentin

    Quentin New Member

    This should make the job easier if you find the pins are stubborn. No cheap but could save you a lot of grief.


    Edit: OOS

    Also a lot of people grind off the sight but leave the gas block intact. Then you can slip a rail over your new low profile gas block and install another sight on the rail.
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2011