AR-15 Troubleshooting ...?

Discussion in 'AR-15 Discussion' started by TimKS, Jun 20, 2012.

  1. TimKS

    TimKS Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I have a Spikes lower that will sometimes lock up....not allow a follow-up shot.

    I'll try to explain...... when the trigger is pulled and held back, the hammer is not allowed to set into fire position until the trigger is released and allowed to reset.... this is normal. But sometimes the hammer does not reset when the trigger is released. What is hanging up...and what to do about it?
     
  2. EagleSix

    EagleSix New Member

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    Can you replicate the condition while dry firing? What is the hammer hanging on? What have you done to clear the malfunction.....you said sometimes? I can't see it from here?!?!

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  3. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    Tim,

    It is normal after the round is fired if the operator still holds the trigger to the rear. The Disconector will not release the hammer to go all the way forward to engage the sear area of the Hammer and Trigger and ready the next shot. As you stated that is a normal thing. I am not all that clear on your explanation on the second part. Please explain it more in detail if you would and maybe some photos of the inside of your receiver including the Hammer, Hammer Spring, Trigger and Trigger Spring as it is installed in the receiver.
    The other issue we are having today that locks up the Hammer and does not allow it to transfer forward after the shot is Primers or Debris being present in the Disconector area of the Trigger. In these cases the shooter has been shooting and all of a sudden the rifle will not fire. The safety is in the OFF position but the Trigger will still not pull to fire the next round. And the Safety will also not go on.
    Sorry, I am just not clear on the second part if I have not touched on it with my comments. Just let us here know more detail!
    Lastly what kind of a complete upper assembly do you have. One thing you can try and to check out for a quick solution, (Is my gut feeling,) if it is a parts gun and you have access to another trigger and hammer. I would simply change the Trigger and Hammer set out! A lot of times anymore it is nothing more than a tolerance problem? And is an easy fix!

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  4. TimKS

    TimKS Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I can NOT replicate the hang-up while dry firing, and If I could see what's hanging up, I probably wouldn't be asking the question. :confused:
     
  5. EagleSix

    EagleSix New Member

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    ...OK, that was funny.....

    OK...let's pull some teeth, so to speak!!! You know how to fire and reset the trigger....correct? So, are you saying, sometimes, when you release pressure on the trigger, you do not hear the hammer/sear reset and engage......correct? So, what happens then? What have you done to start shooting again?

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  6. TimKS

    TimKS Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Okay.....I fire a shot, but when I release the trigger I do NOT hear the hammer / sear reset. When I try to pull the trigger, it doesn't move...it's like the safety is on. The bolt has rechambered a round and ready to shoot, but the trigger will not move.

    If I start to move the safety selector towards the "safe" position, the hammer will then click & reset. Then I can pull the trigger and fire the next round. Clear as mud? :)
     
  7. TimKS

    TimKS Member Lifetime Supporter

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    BTW.....I'm considering dropping a Timney Trigger assembly into it, but I would like to know the problem first.
     
  8. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    Sounds like the bolt traveling back against the disconnector is driving it back into the safe selector cam where it is binding. The movement of the switch is jostling it free. Have you checked that the proper spring is installed under the disconnector, the legs of both the trigger and hammer springs are properly seated and that the safety selector switch is installed correctly.
     
  9. EagleSix

    EagleSix New Member

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    OK, sounds like Sniper03 has you going in the right direction to find the fix.......

    If there is a primer or other debris rattling around under the trigger group, it can often be difficult to detect and difficult to clean out without removing the trigger group. That is really the quick and easy fix. By removing the trigger group you get down to a cavity without parts and easy to clean out what doesn't belong. By the way this area need no lubrication and is normally left dry. A little lube is used on the metal to metal rubbing parts of the trigger, hammer and sear pins. If you have another lower or parts kit, or are familiar with the part in the trigger group, inspecting removed should identify any possible broken corners, edges, etc.....not likely but possible. If you are familiar or have a trigger group do compare, most likely you are going to find debris in the trigger group cavity and/or a difference in parts, springs, fit, etc.

    I would remove the trigger group clean things up and go from there......

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  10. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    Tim,

    That confirms it! That is if you do not have anything under the disconnector like a primer that has popped out of a casing. Also you may want to be sure the Disconnector Spring is in the Trigger Correctly. The Large Coil of the Disconector spring goes into the trigger housing first. If it is reversed it will not let the Disconnector go down. If it is installed correctly you need to *Change Out the Trigger and the Hammer as I stated earlier due to a tolerance problems. This is not an abnormal problem especialy if it is an AR that someone has built from various parts and kits. I am betting the exchange of the trigger and hammer will solve the problem if it isn't the disconnector spring situation as mentioned above. Let us know! It should solve your problem. :D

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  11. TimKS

    TimKS Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I'm new to AR's but I think I can punch a couple of pins an pull the trigger group & replace it. If not you'll hear me screem. ;) Like I said, I'm new to AR's but I've had a few guns in pieces before.....and survived it. :)

    I'll let you know if I find any foreign **** in the cavity below.

    I still may go with the 3# Timney also.
     
  12. jim71

    jim71 New Member

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    I'm having the same problem with mine,and it new. I only shot 40 rounds.
     
  13. bige91603

    bige91603 New Member

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    It actually is as easy as it looks or seems, I have zero experience when I built my first AR. I would buy an ACT QMS trigger and replace the original. I think timminey is overrated if your not doing long range precision shooting with the ar
     
  14. Triumphman

    Triumphman Active Member

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    Good luck and hope you find your problem, which seems to correspond with the Springs and their Leg positions. Also when done don't forget a good amount of OIL in the Trigger Group to keep things limbered up.
    Also, being New to AR's, DO NOT Dry Fire the Rifle without the Upper attached, OR your Finger in front of Hammer to keep from breaking/cracking the Cross Rib of the Lower that the Hammer will slam up against when you pull the Trigger for testing. You might get by with one time of this mistake, but the 2nd time could destroy the Lower.
    Myself, I wouldn't Dry Fire even if the Upper was installed without some Hammer protection for it to slam up against---like some thick Rubber, soft Plastic, Leather, but that's just me. Metal on Metal just tells me things just won't go right.
    Del
     
  15. sensei9

    sensei9 New Member

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    Check the disconnector spring for dirt in the spring. Had this happen once, caused an intermittent FTF problem like the one you have.