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ar 15 build. first build.

4008 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  RL357Mag
i want to start building an ar 15 this summer. i would like to avoid buying premade uppers, lowers, basically everything pre assembled. i know it will be hella expensive to buy all the nuts and bolts and all the parts individually, and i have found a few websites that sell parts packages for all aspects of the gun.

what would some of you who have built an ar15 before recommend as this is my first build, and i would like to keep it as cheap as i can, seeing how i want to put the entire thing together myself. im going to find a guide on assembling an ar 15, but im not to worried about finishing quick. id rather finish with a gun built entirely by me, for me.
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If you want to put together everything, not just put a barrelled upper on a lower you put the internals in, you'll NEED a barrel nut wrench. I believe the torque is supposed to be around 35 ft/lbs. You can find them for less than $10. I have assembled over a hundred barrels to uppers and never measured the torque, but then again they were property of the government so I wasn't too worried about damaging them. By sheer luck alone probably, they all worked. If you buy the barrel seperately, I would suggest getting one with the barrel extension installed that way the headspace and timing will already be set. The barrel extension indexes off the protrusion on the extension and a notch in the upper receiver so you can't possibly screw it up, unless you twist the hell out of the barrel nut and damage the notch in the upper. Aside from that, a decent set of drift punches and a few roll pin punches (bolt catch/ release pin, trigger guard pin) and a mid weight hammer or mallet will get you through. Brownells sells a tool for installing the pivot pin spring and detent which is a *****, but can be done without the tool. PM if I can answer any questions for you. Good luck.
If you go the route that Dillinger did and make the barrel length a legal 16" by adding a long flash suppressor, remember it must be PERMANTLY affixed to the muzzle (i.e. welded). Pinning and or JB weld/ epoxy is not considered permanent by BATFE. Just a heads up.
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For the lower, all you really need is a set of punches (gunsmith punches, NOT tapered drift punches). You could pick them up locally I suppose but all suppliers sell them (Midway, Brownells, etc.). The roll pin punches come in handy for the parts I mentioned above, as does the pivot pin detent tool. If you're careful, you can get by with just the standard punch set for about $15 +/-.
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