Annealing Tools.

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by cpttango30, Mar 9, 2011.

  1. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    OK so here is another nifty product I purchased at Custom Reloading Tools.

    This is a review of the Annealing tool set. It is 2 HIGH quality precision tools that make annealing easy and LOW COST.

    But, Tango what the hell is annealing? Annealing is the process of heating a metal and then cooling that metal so that it make the metal more malleable or easier to work with.

    But, Tango why do you anneal brass cases? Simple answer is to extend the life of the case. Annealing brass in some cartridges can double or even triple the life of brass. Take 220 Swift cases. These cases are some of the short lived cases you can encounter. Split necks eat up 220 swift brass in as little as 3 to 5 loadings. Annealing them can get you to 6 or 9 maybe 15 if you load on the lighter side (Who does that with a swift I don't know)....

    OK Tango get on with the review now.

    OK this is a set of 2 drill or power screw driver attachments that look kind of odd. each has a small nipple on the top one sized for small rifle primers and one sized for larger rifle primers. Unlike other companies you get both in this kit. They have a nice bead blasted stem that looks like a screwdriver bit. They are topped with a machined plug that is knurled on the edge with the nipple. The nipple fits nicely into the primer pocket of large or small primer brass.

    The finish is exelent and the best thing about them. They give you a nice even anneal on the case neck.

    The cost is $27.99 plus shipping. WOW two little tools for $30 not that low cost. If you look at it like that then no they are not. But, if you are wanting to automate your annealing process and move away from the uneven heat and tip method then they are dirt cheap. Check out these two annealing machines Ballistic Edge Mfg has two models the cheap one is $375 plus shipping. The Ken Light mfg machine is $400. So $30 is starting to sounds real cheap isn't it.

    These tools work great and with the right rig can make an impressive low cost annealing machine. Here is a home built rig that I am going to try and recreate for my set. Reloading :: AnnealingToolTakeII_0001.mp4 video by mdman54 - Photobucket

    I got these Monday and tonight was the first day I got a chance to use them. Even using two hands one to hold the drill one to hold the torch annealing goes REALLY fast. They get the Tango Seal of approval from me. Here are a few photos of the tools.

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  2. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    More photos

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    Last edited: Mar 10, 2011

  3. dunerunner

    dunerunner New Member

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    Are we going to get to see these in action!! Please!!

    I learn something new here every day!
     
  4. Eric0424

    Eric0424 New Member

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  5. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    thanks Eirc I forgot to put that video in my post.
     
  6. Txhillbilly

    Txhillbilly Active Member

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    That's a great little tool you found Tango!

    For years,I've just used the shell holders for the Lee case trimmer in my Cordless drill or screwdriver,along with a portable propane torch.

    I just heat the neck until it's cherry red and then drop it in a bucket of water.
     
  7. Biohazard2

    Biohazard2 Member

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    You should do alittle research on annealing and you will find that you do NOT heat until cherry red and you do NOT drop into water.
    Cherry red is too hot and they should cool normally.
     
  8. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    Maybe for steel or aluminum. Brass it really doesn't matter how it is cooled that is the nice thing about brass. When annealed it returns to the same properties as when new.
     
  9. Biohazard2

    Biohazard2 Member

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    I would suggest this for a good read by those in the know;

    The Art and Science of Annealing
     
  10. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    Already read it.

    Also read a bunch of other stuff as well.

    Brass doesn't exhibit the same properties at Steel and or aluminum.
     
  11. Txhillbilly

    Txhillbilly Active Member

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    Well just like anything in this world,everyone has their own opinion.

    I've been doing it this way for around 25yrs,and it works for me.
     
  12. Eric0424

    Eric0424 New Member

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    No problem, I actually got the link from your post in the second to last paragraph, I think dunerunner just missed it. I know some people don't realize underlined words can be a link.

    Biohazard2, the quotes above are from the article you yourself linked. I take it you were too busy to read it before suggesting those of us not "in the know" take a look, because it sure reads like they rapid cooled/quenched their brass to me. ...and one did indeed quench in water.
     
  13. Biohazard2

    Biohazard2 Member

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    Yes, I have read the article and several others.
    The vid in ct's post have you noticed that the guy dumps the cases from the drill into a box with no water?
    You get yours cherry red and I won't.
     
  14. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    Look dude (Meaning BIO) you say not to quench brass. quenching brass does nothing wrong it just keeps the web from getting to hot seeing as brass is a very good conductor of heat.

    You can get it white hot if you want just so long as you don't over heat the web of the case.

    The heat and tip method is what a lot of people I know do. Some of these guys are reloading for $5k custom rifles too.

    Do you have to quench your brass NO. I would always do it on small brass like the 223 rounds. 30-06 300wm cases may not because the amount of time int he heat is not enough to cause damage.

    Also the heat and tip method uses water to keep the webbing from being annealed and blowing your face off.

    Why are you arguing that we are wrong when everything I see says you can quench or not quench?
     
  15. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    is this good for just bottle neck brass?? what about straight wall cases like 458 winmag and pistol brass?? ive always just tossed my 308 brass when they become unworkable
     
  16. Eric0424

    Eric0424 New Member

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    Then you should have reread it before posting the link. My point was, if you've read this and other articles, it would have made more sense to post the link to one that actually agreed with your statements "..you do NOT drop into water.." and "..they should cool normally..", because the one linked above disagrees with your advice/warning on cooling. This fact made it appear as if you failed to read, failed to comprehend or simply forgot key points in the article you seem so proud to have read.

    I too read this same article not long after I started reloading. Which is why I thought it was odd you used that link to backup your warning on cooling brass.
     
  17. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    I have never heard of anyone annealing pistol brass.

    For your 458 winmag brass the tools would work as would annealing.

    I started annealing 223 brass because I kept getting sooty necks and spastic velocities after annealing no more of either.
     
  18. Eric0424

    Eric0424 New Member

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    I've read others have annealed 357-Mag pistol brass, so I figure the same rules would apply to straight wall rifle brass. Just some of our pistol rounds are so short, it may be hard to heat the mouth and neck without heating the rest of the case.

    ...and those 308's you've been tossing could be cut/trimmed down to 45-Auto length and used to load 45ACP or 45-Super. That's where early 45-Super cases started.
     
  19. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    DAMN!!!!!

    least i got a source for good 460 rowland brass now :/
     
  20. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    458 winmag is hard to get at times thanks. pistol cases i figured that was the case so to speak but i had to ask.

    so would it be good to wait till it becomes difficult to work or do it right ff the bat??