270 Winchester reloading

Discussion in 'DIY Projects' started by drocks101, Jan 20, 2012.

  1. drocks101

    drocks101 New Member

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    I was wondering if people had their own opinion about this topic. I am shooting a ruger m77 mkII. Shooting a 130 gr nosler ballistic tip boat tail bullet with 54 grains of imr 4831 powder in Winchester cases and cci primers. I am only getting around 2.5 inch groups at 100 yards. Do you guys know of a way to get my grouping down our any suggestions for improved accuracy.
     
  2. Jim1611

    Jim1611 New Member

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    Does the same rifle shoot better with factory ammo? One thing that will affect your accuracy is how far the bullets are from the rifling. Too much freebore can cause poor groups and too little can elevate chamber pressure.
     

  3. theropinfool

    theropinfool New Member

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    Bam.

    I usually start about .050 off the lands. Pretty easy to find we're that is. Just take a fired case (that has not been resized,) and a bullet that you've colored with a marker. Put the bullet in the case, as far out as you can, and bend the case mouth down on the bullet just so it holds it, barely. Then chamber it. The riflings should show up on the colored bullet. Measure with caliper, and you have your rifles COAL. I start at .050 back from that. You can seat the bullets at whatever length you want, as long as it doesn't make the pressure spike, (usually by jamming it in the lands,) with a bolt action or single shot. Semi autos have to be pretty precise so they'll feed right.
     
  4. drocks101

    drocks101 New Member

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    No, I haven't shot any factory ammo through the gun in a while. The groups have always been good enough for the hunting I do, but recently I have been putting more effort into reducing my groups. When I got the gun I was young, so my dad figured out the seating depth off of a factory load. That could be my problem.
     
  5. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    seating depth off a factory load is a good starting place, but sometimes the factory ammo can be a little conservative so that the ammo will function in just about any type of rifle. the suggestion on the empty case and colored bullet with a marker is a method i use also and it works pretty good. sometimes you might have to try out different powders and bullet weights. reloading gives you the option of tailoring the seating depth to a particular rifle, and this isn't an option afforded by using factory loaded ammo.
     
  6. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Do you own a chronograph?
    Check the speed, standard diviation, etc.
    Reloading without a chronograph can lead to unseen and nasty results.
     
  7. drocks101

    drocks101 New Member

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    Ya, I have a chronograph.
     
  8. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    What speeds are you getting?
    What is the Standard deviation?
    Is the action bedded or loose?
    How is the crown on the barrel?
    Is the barrel "fire cut"?
    What is the overall length compared to factory?
    Are the screws for scope tight?

    Can you give a little more information?

    Mods, Can this get moved to the Ammunition and Reloading area?
     
  9. drocks101

    drocks101 New Member

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    I am getting speeds around 3070 and I have never calculated a standard deviation. The gun is bedded and floated. The crown appears to be in good condition. The overall length is the same a factory. I have checked the scope rings many times and they appear tight. I am not sure what other info you might want.
     
  10. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    check the action screws for tightness, as i had worked on one of mine and failed to properly tighten mine and it wouldn't hit accurately for anything.

    another suggestion i will throw out here, is are you cleanig the rifle properly? reason i ask is, you could be cleaning and by all appearances, think the bore is clean. but you could have copper fouling and this requires a copper fouling remover as regular cleaners sometimes won't completely remove all the copper from the bore. i use the Barne's copper fouling cleaner and it works good.

    so check the action screw for tightness and try cleaning the bore with a copper fouling cleaner and try it out again. i am not for certain these are the problem, but if not then you will have at least eliminated two causes and neither will cost very much to do, just a little bit of time. i paid about $6 for the copper cleaner from Barnes. good luck.
     
  11. drocks101

    drocks101 New Member

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    I know the action screws are tight and I guess I could try a dedication copper remover since I use a powder and copper remover.
     
  12. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    just some suggestions to try out. try out the copper fouling cleaner as with most bore cleaners, they will clean the bore of lead and powder but not copper fouling. i tried some in my rifles, and was sure suprised as to how dirty they were even after cleaning them with regular cleaners. after cleaning then shoot a group and see what size your group is. at the very least you have eliminated a couple of reasons for poor groups.
     
  13. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I have seen more than one rifle go to hell from copper fouling. The .270 is pretty reasonable when it comes to this, but try to eliminate the problems one at a time. Cleaning is an easy one to do. I recommend plugging the chamber with an o-ring equipped chamber plug (available at low cost). Fill the barrel with a copper solvent, I use Shooter's Choice, but Sweet's 7.62 or Hoppe's copper solvent works fine. Seal the muzzle and leave it soaking for a week or two. Come back and pour out the solvent, you will likely find it to be green from the copper residue and clean normally. You may be surprised at the results.
     
  14. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    i read an article many years ago about a rifle losing accuracy and one of the things mentioned if nothing had changed, then look at copper fouling being the cause. i didn't know until a few years ago that many cleaners will clean well, but can still leave copper fouling in the bore and that a dedicated copper cleaner is needed to remove it. sometimes it may take several cleanings to remove all of it, more so if it's an older rifle. when i buy a used rifle, i always now do a complete cleaning of the bore, including a good copper fouling cleaner.

    sidenote: many of the copper cleaners recommend using a nylon brush instead of a brass one. as the copper cleaner can react with some of them.
     
  15. JTJ

    JTJ Well-Known Member Supporter

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    I had a MKII in 270. I had to have the barrel floated before it would shoot well. Ruger has/had upward pressure at the forend and it caused vertical stringing. 1st shot perfect then stair step higher an slightly right on each additional shot. It would shoot sub moa after it was floated.