.22LR UMP using Marlin 60

Discussion in '.22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion' started by defcon, Nov 2, 2012.

  1. defcon

    defcon New Member

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    .22LR UMP using Marlin 60

    95% done. Just finished fitting it.

    Add extended trigger
    Add a clamp to the fake can
    Add epoxy putty to around the end of the barrel for snug fitment
    Add extended bolt through the buffer in the action
    Add selector switches and bolt release
    Repaint flat black

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeP7jgBWUWQ[/ame]

    [​IMG]
    _MG_4101 by defconskylude, on Flickr

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    _MG_4102 by defconskylude, on Flickr

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    _MG_4103 by defconskylude, on Flickr

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    _MG_4104 by defconskylude, on Flickr

    [​IMG]
    _MG_4108 by defconskylude, on Flickr
     
  2. big shrek

    big shrek Well-Known Member

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  3. defcon

    defcon New Member

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    man this is so bad ass. some of the older guys were just laughing when they found out this was a Marlin 60. mainly because they never thought it could look like this.

    anyways i had bunch of FTF/FTE

    still trying to figure out how to make this Marlin 60 cycle properly.

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aObiIkd0QHs[/ame]
     
  4. big shrek

    big shrek Well-Known Member

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    Well, lets start with the basics...

    First: Is the action binding any?? if it feels harder to pull back the bolt than your others, that's a good indicator of an issue...
    Second: Ammo...What were you using?? Standard Velo/Match grade generally won't cycle the action...RGB HV's can be spotty, but you'll usually get fewer malfs...
    Third: Did you clean it after installing it into the new stock?? Sometimes a little leftover grit can get into the action from the new enclosing stock...
    Fourth: Check the bolt & rails for metal burrs...and also the inner action housing...use a cotton ball to test...if a burr is there, it'll pull cotton hairs out...
    it'll be real evident!!
     
  5. defcon

    defcon New Member

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    thanks for the help

    yes i get some resistance pulling the charging handle back. when i let it go, the bolt sometimes doesnt close all the way which will cause it to feed.

    should i replace the spring?

    i was using CCI bulk copper plated round nose 40gr and Winchester 555 bulk 36gr

    i did clean it before i put it in the stock. lubed up the bolt and inside the action housing. there's also rust on the bolt. how do i get rid of the rust?

    ill do the cotton ball test.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2012
  6. defcon

    defcon New Member

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    i noticed one of the e-clips was missing on the buffer side.

    would this affect the FTF/FTE?
     
  7. orangello

    orangello New Member

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    The little plastic buffer inside the action broke down on my Marlin Model 60; I replaced the stock white one with an improved black one.
     
  8. defcon

    defcon New Member

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    what do you mean it broke down? it had a crack in it or a piece broke off?

    my white buffers were dirty but theyre still intact. should i still replace it?
     
  9. orangello

    orangello New Member

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    Mine was in pieces. If you run higher velocity ammo like CCI stingers, you will eventually wear yours out. Replace it when it is visibly fubared.
     
  10. defcon

    defcon New Member

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    hey ive been reading that we shouldnt be using hyper velocity ammo on the Marlin 60. what kind of ammo runs reliably with yours?
     
  11. orangello

    orangello New Member

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    I'll have to look at the bulk box to see the brand of the cheapo stuff mine likes. The regular CCI stuff runs best.
     
  12. big shrek

    big shrek Well-Known Member

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    Check the spring for kinks...if badly bent, or over 20 years old, replace.
    J&P Springs has an inexpensive Hammer/FP spring kit available...

    Rusty bolt would be more of an issue...rust is rough...makes sliding tough...
    grab some fine-grit sandpaper or sanding sponges, apply plenty of gun oil, and clean it up until shiny...

    But the Big Culprit is probably how the action is placed inside the action housing...
    loosen your rear stock/action screw 1/4 turn, work the bolt...see if it feels better...then try the front...
    play with the screws until it works properly...I've seen more than a few issues caused by cranking down on the screws too much.
    Snug is good, overtight is bad...loose is worse...so you have to find the happy medium...
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2012
  13. big shrek

    big shrek Well-Known Member

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    Depends on what it was supposed to hold :)

    Ace Hardware...get a 10-pack for a buck or two...bring one in to make sure you get the proper size!
     
  14. defcon

    defcon New Member

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    the recoil spring looks fine.
    thanks for the tip on getting rid of the rust
    ya i was reading on rimfirecentral and they say not to overtighten the screws on the front action.

    i also read that some people just bought new feed throats but i dont want to go that far into modifying the internals

    ill try all of your suggestions. thanks man
     
  15. big shrek

    big shrek Well-Known Member

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    I've not done an FTC yet...hopefully won't ever have to...
    To get the level of wear to require an FTC usually means they've shot the stuffings out of it, and may need a new barrel too...
    kind of like needing to replace a transmission in a car...when you do that, you start wondering when the engine is gonna go...


    I find that a new spring set & intense cleaning usually breathes new life into old rifles :)

    Which one would also tend to find me preaching on RFC as well ;)