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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought that the hammer pin was standard but I am having issues with a new hammer I purchased from Harrison Design. The pin from my Springfield 1911-A1 does not fit.
Is that expected? What is the solution? I bought a few other pins to try: Colt, Wilson and 1911 standard.
 

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Even if you find a pin to match the hammer, it still will not work.

A pin that fits the hammer will then be too loose for the frame. The hammer then would not have a consistent lock up with the sear, and you are no better than before.

Do the pins fit the frame? If so, then the hole on the hammer needs to be enlarged or a different hammer. Try using some emory cloth (rolled up) to enlarge the hammer hole.

Remember, you can take off too much metal, and it is hard to put back. And normally, any mods done to parts will void any warranties.
 

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Even if you find a pin to match the hammer, it still will not work.

A pin that fits the hammer will then be too loose for the frame. The hammer then would not have a consistent lock up with the sear, and you are no better than before.

Do the pins fit the frame? If so, then the hole on the hammer needs to be enlarged or a different hammer. Try using some emory cloth (rolled up) to enlarge the hammer hole.

Remember, you can take off too much metal, and it is hard to put back. And normally, any mods done to parts will void any warranties.
^^^^^^^^^
I think you need another hammer---
 

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Welcome to the world of 1911 hand fitting.
I do not work with Harrison, so I cannot comment on their stuff.
I've had good luck with every Ed Brown part so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Harrison hammer

John Harrison got back after I sent a support request and offered me to fix the issue by sending the pin and hammer what I think was really nice. But this is a skill I want to develop and I had purchased a set of diablo sanders with various grits already. I chose the 100 grit and just about 30 revolutions was enough to enlarge the whole to fit the springfield pin size.

I used a punch down pin as the axis to hold the abrasive paper (which is adhesive) to work.

Thanks dan_fl for the inspiration. Home Depot does not have emery cloth anymore, but the diablo is a pretty good replacement (made in switzerland). i have 80, 100 and 220 grit for future projects. i know i will need it. :)

1911s are definitely much more fun than SIGs and GLOCKs which are pretty much LEGOs. :D
 

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Hint: the pin goes in from port to starboard.
The head is covered by the left grip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Really? It came from factory this way and there is a cavity to fit the side of the hammer pin that has a head on the starboard side of the pistol to make it flush with the frame. (Not to mention the busted sear spring that came with it.). I guess Springfield is going down in quality and standards?!
 

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Kuhnhausen has a couple of books you can order through Brownells.

Great info.

PM me your e-mail address. I've got something you may be interested in.
 

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45touch said:
Really? It came from factory this way and there is a cavity to fit the side of the hammer pin that has a head on the starboard side of the pistol to make it flush with the frame. (Not to mention the busted sear spring that came with it.). I guess Springfield is going down in quality and standards?!
Hmmm... I have never seen a hammer pin go in from the starboard side before. Has anyone else had it apart? The recess cut for the pin head could just be done in the factory by simply using the same cutting tool to make both pin holes in the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The hammer pin was my mistake, it was installed wrong from factory and i just repeated, but the recess is on the port side. I found another problem with the pistol other than the smashed sear spring (picture). When I disassembled the 1911, there was no retaining pin in the mainspring housing. Furthermore, the mainspring was deformed (I found out later by watching videos that it is longer than usual!), really bent out of shape. Very weird because the hammer was never really heavy, so I don't really know what assembly sequence they used for this particular pistol. What I know is that once I placed my new hammer, sear, disconnect, trigger, back safety, with a retaining pin the main spring housing set does not provide enough pressure to the hammer strut because it does not reach it at rest, only at half cock to full cock.
I ordered a new complete housing from Wilson combat with all springs and pins and will try. I am very disappointed with Springfield and will write a letter to them once I am done with this ordeal. Worse quality control I ever seen.
 

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I'm beginning to think that someone who was not familiar with the 1911 (in the store) was messing with it and screwed some things up on trying to reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
45touch said:
The hammer pin was my mistake, it was installed wrong from factory and i just repeated, but the recess is on the port side. I found another problem with the pistol other than the smashed sear spring (picture). When I disassembled the 1911, there was no retaining pin in the mainspring housing. Furthermore, the mainspring was deformed (I found out later by watching videos that it is longer than usual!), really bent out of shape. Very weird because the hammer was never really heavy, so I don't really know what assembly sequence they used for this particular pistol. What I know is that once I placed my new hammer, sear, disconnect, trigger, back safety, with a retaining pin the main spring housing set does not provide enough pressure to the hammer strut because it does not reach it at rest, only at half cock to full cock.
I ordered a new complete housing from Wilson combat with all springs and pins and will try. I am very disappointed with Springfield and will write a letter to them once I am done with this ordeal. Worse quality control I ever seen.
More pics: mainspring housing and back of the pistol. When I take off the mainspring housing, depress the back safety and the trigger, the hammer moves freely as all as the strut. All other combinations work too: hammer locks if either the trigger, thumb safety or the back safety are not properly pressed (depressed for thumb safety).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
danf_fl said:
I'm beginning to think that someone who was not familiar with the 1911 (in the store) was messing with it and screwed some things up on trying to reassemble.
That is a possibility. I went to the store today and the owner, who is a 1911 fanatic, told me that he was not understanding quite well what issues I was having as he is not a gunsmith himself and is not familiar with how they function. I found that statement weird. Anyway, I hope the new set of parts will fix this last issue.
 

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Each of the three fingers of the sear spring serve a purpose.
(From port side) The "hooked" keeps pressure on the sear, the center returns the disconnector in position (into the slide detent when in battery), and the bent one is for the grip safety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
danf_fl said:
Each of the three fingers of the sear spring serve a purpose.
(From port side) The "hooked" keeps pressure on the sear, the center returns the disconnector in position (into the slide detent when in battery), and the bent one is for the grip safety.
Yup. I got them adjusted as explained and my trigger pull is 5.5lb (I like it) and the grip safety is firm but crisp so I can rely on it if i the thumb safety is off. Thanks again Dan.
 
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