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Discussion in 'Curio & Relic Discussion' started by surplusaddict, Dec 16, 2013.
I tried opening the bolt when the safety was in the middle position and it wont work. Please help.
I am sure not a mauser expert though I do have several, one being a Swede. If your bolt unlocks when the safety is moved to the left position then remove it and strip it and give it a good cleaning, oiling and inspection and go from there. If that doesn't work then you may have to remove the safety and do the same to it. I'm sure someone with a lot more knowledge than myself will be along to give you better advice. Good luck.
I recently got a M96 Swedish Mauser. The bolt on mine can only be opened when the safety is fully to the left; it will not open with the safety straight up. From what I have seen on various Mausers, the operation of the bolt varies from model to model. Some have a 3 position safety, while some have only a 2 position action. So far, the Mausers I have seen have used the fully to the left position as the "fire" position. Straight up and fully right are "safe" positions. Just for fun go to Youtube and see what is offered for operating info on the Swedish Mauser.
Thanks it all makes sense now, I didn't know to much about early mausers.
I just went & checked, none of mine will open with the safety straight up !..............
I was so mad when I got it home. I thought great now I have to fix it. Lol. The marking disc reads "0" on both bore and rust erosion. What a great find for $400!
Pictures, I have never seen one with 0 in the bore wedge !.............
I guess you never get too old to learn. I thought all Mauser safeties worked the same. I have 7, one being Swedish and all mine will allow the bolt to open with the saftey in the up or middle position.
Ol Dummy Me !...........Yes they will, I was trying mine uncocked..........
LOL. Glad it was someone else this time. That usually the part I play. Yes thats the way mine works. cocked, left is fire, bolt unlocked, center safe with bolt unlocked, right safe bolt locked. uncocked left bolt unlocked, center bolt locked and will not go to the right position.
I'm going to have to learn how to read the stock disk. I knew how at one time but I think I lost it.
These disc are so interesting. I wish every firearm came with a Birth Certificate.
Nitestalker got it !.........
The brass disc.
Torped................Bullet with boat tail (also means "torpedo")
Överslag.............."Point of impact over line of sight" (also means "estimate")
STR = Streck............Mills (1 Swedish mill = 1 meter at 1000 meters = 3,6" at 100 yds)
The largest sector is stamped with the calibre of the barrel.
The m/41 round had a much flatter trajectory than the older m/94. As most rifles were already manufactured with iron sights for the "m/94 bullet", the aiming correction in mills (how much lower you had to aim to hit the target) was inscribed on the brass disc. This is the information in the second sector. It was usually 0.5 mill.
The last sector gives information on the level of bore pitting. “1” means pitting in the groves. “2” means pitting in the groves and on the side of the lands. “3” means pitting in the whole bore (which means unserviceable). A rifle would never receive a “3”. It would instead be turned in to a work shop, where the old barrel would be exchanged for a new one.
Ok cool. According to this site no mark in the last sectior (1, 2 or 3) means 0 or perfect which is the way the one in both your and my picture indicates.
surplusaddict, I would be curious to know if the muzzle of your swede is threaded as mine is. Just wondering.
String: mine is dated 1919 and has the threaded barrel. Usually I put the small ring on it to protect the threads, as with the flash suppressor it is too long to go into its case.
"0" with regards to bore means no rust no wear. "0" in other sections is the number 10 as in 8,9,0.
Mine is dated 1907 and has a thread protector on the muzzle. It looks pretty much like the barrel and I had the gun for a while before I found out the protector would screw off and expose the threads. I don't know anything about a flash suppressor but what I have read is the threaded part is for installing a blank firing device. It seems the blanks they used had the cases plugged with wooden plugs and the blank firing device was there to shread the plug as it exited the barrel so it wouldnt be a dangerous projectile.
My bore is untouched, no mark for bore erosion and bore wear. It is an ex sniper model. Cosmo still in the chamber and a few other places. I bought it from a Swedish dealer at the show.
I will try and takes,some pics of it this week some time and post them.
That could be a replacement disk. I have seen quite a few for sale. The screw looks very new and different than the ones on my swedes.