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Ruger Mark Pistols/Hard Disassembly?

7K views 36 replies 20 participants last post by  SGWGunsmith 
#1 ·
One of the things I keep reading about as to why some folks don't like to own any of the Ruger Mark pistols, involves the stubborn disassembly many of these models present.
I read about huge rubber mallets, hardwood boards and engaging the four-wheel drive on their pickup truck to get the upper off of the receiver. Here's a gimmick I've been using for over 30 years that really makes disassembly a much easier proposition:



When you have the upper and lower separated for the first time, smear a good "blob" of anti-seize lube underneath that front tab in the grip frame assembly. The attempt involved with assembling the upper to the lower in a "dry state" will have the metal to metal contact rubbing, and even will "gall" the metal to make the reassembly difficult and then the next disassembly even worse than the last time.
I use an anti-seize product that has copper dust embedded in it. The copper dust is very fine and is also known to be an additional lubricating factor when parts are assembled in a tight condition. Any anti-seize will work to keep the metal to metal contact from smearing, or galling, and creating a very tight assembly/disassembly. The anti-seize lube will also help prevent the loosening of the upper to the lower assemblies due to the dry metal rubbing away on the tab and then the receptacle.

It also doesn't hurt, and I certainly believe that it does help, to also add some anti-seize into the receiver receptacle where that grip frame tab needs to go:



Then there's only ONE more thing to do that's imperative. Tilt the muzzle upward so that the hammer strut will swing back naturally and position itself over the top of the mainspring follower, and then push the mainspring housing in that last 1/8-inch or so, and push the latch in.
 
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#35 ·
i about fell out laughing over that post! LMAO Funny! :)

yeah, the first few times you are new to the pistol and try to field strip it for cleaning, it will try your Christian patience not to use the vocabulary of a Navy sailor on leave! :p:eek::D

they get easier the more times you do it though.
 
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#36 · (Edited)
The hardest thing for me has been determining when I was doing something wrong or the thing is just being difficult. I have had more trouble getting the mainspring housing pin back in than anything else. The good thing is, the Ruger MK III is built so robust that it is really difficult to damage it. There are no small springs to go flying across the room (Walther PK.380) or special tools to keep track of. Just one contrary piece of engineering made tougher by the magazine disconnect.
 
#37 ·
The hardest thing for me has been determining when I was doing something wrong or the thing is just being difficult. I have had more trouble getting the mainspring housing pin back in than anything else. The good thing is, the Ruger MK III is built so robust that it is really difficult to damage it. There are no small springs to go flying across the room (Walther PK.380) or special tools to keep track of. Just one contrary piece of engineering made tougher by the magazine disconnect.
When doing the so-called "field-strip", by just removing the upper assembly, you're not alone with getting the upper aligned to the lower, so that the bolt stop pin goes up and into place like it should. What I recommend is that owners align the upper to the lower as best you can by eye-ball. Then, insert the bolt stop pin from the top of the receiver to verify alignment. If that bolt stop pin goes in from the top, it will certainly go in from the bottom up. See post #23 above.
One of the most lost parts on the Ruger Mark pistols, and I mean this goes back to the very first styles made and right up until this later version, the Mark IV, is the safety detent. The safety detent is used in all versions up to the Mark IV, but all previous detents are "steel". For some unknown reason Ruger chose to use a black plastic detent on the Mark IV safety. In my mind a very bad idea as those that I've seen develop a flat on the working end in short order. I replace those that come in my shop with a steel detent.
The detent spring stays pretty much in place when you are re-installing the safety after changing some other parts that require the safety assembly be removed, but care must be taken that the detent stays in place. One trick I use to keep the safety detent from falling out when you reassemble the safety plate is to squirt a little dab of grease into the detent spring. That will hold the little detent in place until you get the safety assembly back in place.
 
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