One of the things I keep reading about as to why some folks don't like to own any of the Ruger Mark pistols, involves the stubborn disassembly many of these models present.
I read about huge rubber mallets, hardwood boards and engaging the four-wheel drive on their pickup truck to get the upper off of the receiver. Here's a gimmick I've been using for over 30 years that really makes disassembly a much easier proposition:
When you have the upper and lower separated for the first time, smear a good "blob" of anti-seize lube underneath that front tab in the grip frame assembly. The attempt involved with assembling the upper to the lower in a "dry state" will have the metal to metal contact rubbing, and even will "gall" the metal to make the reassembly difficult and then the next disassembly even worse than the last time.
I use an anti-seize product that has copper dust embedded in it. The copper dust is very fine and is also known to be an additional lubricating factor when parts are assembled in a tight condition. Any anti-seize will work to keep the metal to metal contact from smearing, or galling, and creating a very tight assembly/disassembly. The anti-seize lube will also help prevent the loosening of the upper to the lower assemblies due to the dry metal rubbing away on the tab and then the receptacle.
It also doesn't hurt, and I certainly believe that it does help, to also add some anti-seize into the receiver receptacle where that grip frame tab needs to go:
Then there's only ONE more thing to do that's imperative. Tilt the muzzle upward so that the hammer strut will swing back naturally and position itself over the top of the mainspring follower, and then push the mainspring housing in that last 1/8-inch or so, and push the latch in.
I read about huge rubber mallets, hardwood boards and engaging the four-wheel drive on their pickup truck to get the upper off of the receiver. Here's a gimmick I've been using for over 30 years that really makes disassembly a much easier proposition:
When you have the upper and lower separated for the first time, smear a good "blob" of anti-seize lube underneath that front tab in the grip frame assembly. The attempt involved with assembling the upper to the lower in a "dry state" will have the metal to metal contact rubbing, and even will "gall" the metal to make the reassembly difficult and then the next disassembly even worse than the last time.
I use an anti-seize product that has copper dust embedded in it. The copper dust is very fine and is also known to be an additional lubricating factor when parts are assembled in a tight condition. Any anti-seize will work to keep the metal to metal contact from smearing, or galling, and creating a very tight assembly/disassembly. The anti-seize lube will also help prevent the loosening of the upper to the lower assemblies due to the dry metal rubbing away on the tab and then the receptacle.
It also doesn't hurt, and I certainly believe that it does help, to also add some anti-seize into the receiver receptacle where that grip frame tab needs to go:
Then there's only ONE more thing to do that's imperative. Tilt the muzzle upward so that the hammer strut will swing back naturally and position itself over the top of the mainspring follower, and then push the mainspring housing in that last 1/8-inch or so, and push the latch in.