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Oiling a gun.

5K views 40 replies 19 participants last post by  Rentacop 
#1 ·
Now, obviously oiling a gun is a good thing, but I'm wondering if its possible to over oil it in a way that may be dangerous. Particularly worried about the gas system of an SKS. A little too much oil won't kill it, will it?
 
#2 ·
Hell, I have seen people seriously wound themselves with a coffee stirrer- anything is possible. However, in most cases extreme lube will interfere with the function of the firearm first.

In the case of an SKS, what are you lubing? The gas piston? The tappet that it hits? The piston and cylinder are subjected to a storm of superheated gas each time you fire. Heated WELL over the ignition temp of most lubes. It is going to burn- imperfectly- leaving carbon and junk behind.

Will it keep the gun from working? I think you have to drive over an SKS with a tank to do that. Several times. But overlubing accomplishes no good.

I wash my gas piston and cylinder (corrosive ammo) dry it, wipe with thin layer of oil, drop of oil on tappet, and drive on. Fill the cylinder with oil, you will learn that liquids can't be compressed, and you would likely damage something (and get self covered in oil)
 
#3 ·
The first question that that you need to ask is what are you trying to accomplish with the lube? Too much oil on a gun will collect all kinds of dust and other gunk. I try to leave the thinnest possible film of oil on guns after shooting and cleaning to protect them from rust and corrosion. It does not improve things a bit if it is dripping.

All things in moderation.
 
#10 ·
My rule of thumb with lube is apply with a cloth or q-tip. Avoid slathering
oil all over. The SKS, or any other semi-rifle, you could get oil or grease
blocking the gas system which will momentarily prevent it from firing,
or, as C3 pointed out, cook off in the internals, leaving blackened gwee
in inaccessible places.

Is gwee also available in your grocers dairy case??:D
 
#36 ·
I had read on other forums of folks using Mobile 1 and synthetic transmission fluid for lubrication on auto loaders so decided to give the Mobile 1 a try and had no issues until my first ar build. It would cycle 2 then FTF. Cleaned the bolt carrier and upper then relubed with Rem oil and it has never failed to feed since.
Conclusion: Motor oil is for motors but the synthetic motor oil still seems like a good idea.
 
#12 ·
This may apply only to Glocks but...The manufacturer's people say more trouble results from over-lubrication than from under-lubrication . Some parts of the Glock are not supposed to be oiled at all to prevent dirt from sticking to the oil and building up .
For long-term storage, I use a thin film of BreakFree CLP on all metal parts and store the gun in a safe with a powered dehumidifier rod . When used the next time, the gun can be degreased with Powder Blast or Gun Scrubber and then lubed only in key places .
In general, use no more than a very thin film of oil on magazines and gas pistons .
Frequent light lubrication is far better than infrequently soaking the gun in oil .
 
#17 ·
I us to buy Mil surplus spray moly lube. The longer it dried the harder it got, to the point o needing hard scraping to remove.
I haven't found it in a long while. I had the idea of some time ago using a thin film o it on my SKS and the AK pistons.
Did try it on an old .45 and it stayed on the rails real good.
As an experiment it might be worth a try. I have a shovel thirty years old or older, still covered and no rust with it, except a bit off wear right on the leading edge.
 
#21 ·
I us to buy Mil surplus spray moly lube. The longer it dried the harder it got, to the point o needing hard scraping to remove.
I haven't found it in a long while. I had the idea of some time ago using a thin film o it on my SKS and the AK pistons.
Did try it on an old .45 and it stayed on the rails real good.
As an experiment it might be worth a try. I have a shovel thirty years old or older, still covered and no rust with it, except a bit off wear right on the leading edge.
Lucas Gun Oil; Prevents jamming and overheating, resists evaporation and penetrates rust freeing stuck parts and actions. Polymeric film protects from rust, wear and moisture and makes copper, lead and wad fouling much easier to clean. It neutralizes acids from fingerprints and resists drying for long term storage use.

https://lucasoil.com/products/out-door-line/extreme-duty-gun-oil
 
#19 · (Edited)
The idea I pursue is lubrication clinging to the metal even under impact, if possible.
I've referenced before, some greases, like the one I use on my mower blade shaft bearings.
Some of these grease have thinks like clay in them.
I don't think the type Ii Lithium base does and you can't wash the stuff of of you skin. I wear rubber gloves now, when I can, when using it. Before I use it on my guns though I want to be sure.
Surely there is real synthetic that will cling and no flow and stay there under impact of moving gun parts, though.
And...of course being slicker than snail snot and not letting moisture get to the metal
 
#20 ·
The idea I pursue is lubrication clinging to the metal even under impact, if possible.
I've referenced before, some greases, like the one I use on my mower blade shaft bearings.
Some of these grease have thinks like clay in them.
I don't think the type Ii Lithium base does and you can't wash the stuff of of you skin. I wear rubber gloves now, when I can, when using it. Before I use it on my guns though I want to be sure.
Surely there is real synthetic that will cling and no flow and stay there under impact of moving gun parts, though.
sometimes, it seems you spend so much time over-thinking things, and going out of your way to make things much more complicated than they need to be.

just buy a quality gun oil or grease, shoot the guns you have and just enjoy them, then clean and lube them. no need to get all excited over such a trivial thing.

K.I.S.S.!:)
 
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#22 ·
Really depends on the gun. Most guns just need a bit of oil, some 1911's like to run wet, lube according to the gun maker.

As far as the brand of oil, try a few, use what works.
 
#24 ·
I like my guns to run wet or slick. As everyone is familiar with rails on 1911s and other semi autos and autos rub or sling the oil off. The warmer the metal gets the worse that is on semi auto rifles and handguns, and of course dirt.
We don't or rather I don't get to shoot enough in one session to stress a gun much except the Hipower and ARs.
Even so I don't like seeing the dry shiny spots and enevitable lossening.
I'm going to try the synthetic high dollar lube I use on the mower spindles in the Marlin 60 where rubbing really shows on part of the bolt.
 
#32 ·
I think it is safe to say that BreakFree CLP has cleaning properties sufficient for most gun cleaning , so you can use it to clean and lubricate . Mobil 1 or another synthetic motor oil may be a great lubricant but you might have to use a separate solvent first to clean the gun .
 
#33 ·
MANY years ago I bought one of the first Colt 1911's in SS and was doing a lot of shooting. The early ones had a gulling problem between the slide and frame (wrong metal). Well I tried several different things but I finally settled on a 3 parts Breakfree and 1 part STP. I made a 4 oz bottle then and still have about 1/2 of it left. It is my go to stuff for SA's I plan to run a lot. But the T-6 works great to.
 
#35 ·
1 qt Mobil 1 5w30, 1qt Mobil 1 Syn ATF, 1 bottle marvel mystery oil, 1 small bottle Hoppes #9. Mix, Shake. Cleans and lubes. I use this on everything but Semi Auto Pistols. My 1911s get I dot of black gunslick grease on each rail. AR gas rings get a dot too.
 
#37 ·
I use EEZOX. Goes on wet and dries slick. I always seem to have some Hoppes gun oil and Outers grease around as well. 3 and 1 has been a staple as long as I can remember, but I seldom use it now.

I run my AR's and 1911's wet. About everything else gets oiled up and wiped down before shooting.
 
#38 ·
I use CLP for cleaning and then key wear areas like slides, guide rods, bolts etc...I use Lucas oil...sometime Rem Oil...but either way, I use CLP for the cleaning portion and oil some key areas...I like Lucas products best. Seems to work well...biggest issue I have to watch for is that I have accumulated enough firearms that some aren't fired often so I have to apply some oil before shooting...Oil is a liquid and over long periods of time, gravity will make it flow.
 
#40 ·
Just remember all, in a 'survival' situation, just use the oil on the end of the dipstick of any engine to lube your gun. That will keep it 'running'!!!;)
 
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