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Excellent gun care product.

7K views 61 replies 22 participants last post by  MisterMcCool 
#1 ·
I'm a big fan of Amsoil anyway, they make the best synthetic i=oil and it's all I'll run in my truck for every lubrication fluid but they recently came out with firearm care products that far exceed the competition. I highly recommend this, online gun supply sites ought to be stocking it.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/firearms-products/
 
#27 ·
Cowboy, this really is a friendly place and you need to expect a bit of hazing when you come in painting with a broad brush.
Superior product, that is your estimation, now it may be that JonM believes ear wax is the best lubricant or Mr.Mcool thinks K-Y and maple syrup is better (tastier) lube.
Here is the point, they all appear to work for those that believe! Most folks don't shoot enough or live long enough to ever tell the difference!
BTW Welcome aboard.
Amen, brother. Great post. And how did you know about JonM's fondness for ear wax?
 
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#28 ·
You want real Synthetic Red Line makes it as do a number of European oils manufactured for some Hondas, Nissan GTR and 1000hp Porsche race engines.
Mobile One at first was full synthetic then Castrol sued because they wanted to call their more highly refined Dino oil Synthetic and won. Castrol syn Tech leaves a hard red varnish in very hot performance engines, from experience.
Mobile one went the same route. Now some of the Mobile One oils are again Ester Based Full Synthetics. I'm not up on reading the codes on the cans to know which ones. The 5w20euroe Spec they now use in my engine at the Dealer say it is truly full synthetic.
When full synthetics first came out I used in my Plymouth and had to replace all the gaskets as it is super thin. and as the old commercials showed you could not hold a dipstick between your fingers coated with the stuff.
And you don't want to use synthetic blend if it is true synthetic in the blend.
The dino portion turned to like grains of sand or bunt umber sugar grains within the synthetic oil and burned up turbo bearings for me.
Most synthetic or al synthetic blends are really just more highly refined dino oil, as far as I know.
 
#29 ·
here's a decent article on whether synthetic oil is better than conventional oil.

http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/owne...ally-in/ar-BBEs0Bw?li=BBmkt5R&ocid=spartandhp

now some people may just say, "well oil is oil." well, yes and no. conventional oil for the most part is pretty much the same, as it's derived in the same manner of distillation at a refinery, and one brand is pretty much the same as far as the base stock. now where they differ are the additive packages requested from one brand to the next. and those additive packages sometimes may be proprietary.

now all of this is fine and dandy, but lets be realistic. how many of us are going to subject our weapons to the same types of stresses and heat that modern engines will face in day to day normal operation? not even close IMO.

and really what are we looking for in a gun oil? simple for me. proper operation of the firearm and rust control. and what we require for proper operation of a our firearms, depends upon what type of firearms we are using the products on. an AR run hot and heavy, will need a much more durable oil than say a bolt action or lever action hunting rifle. and some gun oils are going to better than others at keeping rust at bay. and their are oils or products that are primarily made for just that purpose, and maybe not so good at proper operation of the firearm. sometimes we are all looking for that magical gun oil that will do everything we want, and do all of them well. as a result, many products are simply a compromise, and may not do any one thing well.

sometimes, we may just need to take a step back and look at our own individual needs of our gun products and sue what works for our own specific needs. look at your environment, your firearms, and your own use of those firearms and use the products that work for your specific needs and not someone else's. just because Brand "A" works great for one person, and they swear by it, and it doesn't seem to work so great for you, doesn't mean that Brand "A" is a bad product, just that you may need something different and it works well for the other person given their conditions and needs of the product.

i use a variety of products. Rem-Oil, Lucas Gun Oil, Mobil 1, and others. all have their places in what i use them for. i also use a variety of different types of bore cleaners for the same reason. they all have their place. if someone asks me for ideas for a product, all i can do is suggest what i personally use, or products that i have used before. i would only give an honest assessment of the results i got using those products, and they may or may not be a great product for someone else.
 
#30 ·
Chain saw bar oil can clean dirt grit saw dust and metal rust. It can lube a high speed chain at extreme high and low temperatures it sells foe $4.99 per gallon at Wally World. Humm? Now would you believe many expensive gun oils are the same product at higher prices? The American public makes many millionaire business men.;):D
 
#31 ·
here's a decent article on whether synthetic oil is better than conventional oil.

http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/owne...ally-in/ar-BBEs0Bw?li=BBmkt5R&ocid=spartandhp

now some people may just say, "well oil is oil." well, yes and no. conventional oil for the most part is pretty much the same, as it's derived in the same manner of distillation at a refinery, and one brand is pretty much the same as far as the base stock. now where they differ are the additive packages requested from one brand to the next. and those additive packages sometimes may be proprietary.

now all of this is fine and dandy, but lets be realistic. how many of us are going to subject our weapons to the same types of stresses and heat that modern engines will face in day to day normal operation? not even close IMO.

and really what are we looking for in a gun oil? simple for me. proper operation of the firearm and rust control. and what we require for proper operation of a our firearms, depends upon what type of firearms we are using the products on. an AR run hot and heavy, will need a much more durable oil than say a bolt action or lever action hunting rifle. and some gun oils are going to better than others at keeping rust at bay. and their are oils or products that are primarily made for just that purpose, and maybe not so good at proper operation of the firearm. sometimes we are all looking for that magical gun oil that will do everything we want, and do all of them well. as a result, many products are simply a compromise, and may not do any one thing well.

sometimes, we may just need to take a step back and look at our own individual needs of our gun products and sue what works for our own specific needs. look at your environment, your firearms, and your own use of those firearms and use the products that work for your specific needs and not someone else's. just because Brand "A" works great for one person, and they swear by it, and it doesn't seem to work so great for you, doesn't mean that Brand "A" is a bad product, just that you may need something different and it works well for the other person given their conditions and needs of the product.

i use a variety of products. Rem-Oil, Lucas Gun Oil, Mobil 1, and others. all have their places in what i use them for. i also use a variety of different types of bore cleaners for the same reason. they all have their place. if someone asks me for ideas for a product, all i can do is suggest what i personally use, or products that i have used before. i would only give an honest assessment of the results i got using those products, and they may or may not be a great product for someone else.
For the umteenth time, we're not talking about motor oil. It's just that these firearm specific products were engineered and produced by a highly rated oil company. You guys seem to be having a lot of trouble with that.

Sorry I brought it up and caused such a rift. I'm just going to unsubscribe and let you fight among yourselves.
 
#32 ·
For the umteenth time, we're not talking about motor oil. It's just that these firearm specific products were engineered and produced by a highly rated oil company. You guys seem to be having a lot of trouble with that.

Sorry I brought it up and caused such a rift. I'm just going to unsubscribe and let you fight among yourselves.
i think you are missing the point and the larger picture. if motor oil will work in a $20,000 engine, then it will probably work just fine in a $1000 AR. and many of us have proven beyond a doubt that Mobil 1 will work just fine in an AR. so if i can buy a quart of Mobile 1 for about $9, why would i buy a 2 or 4 oz. bottle of special gun oil for the same price?

and many products are re-marketed and repackaged and used for a different application than the original application. and i think some were questioning whether this might have been the case.

and people were just asking questions and discussing the topic of the thread you started. and it seems that those having an opposing viewpoint ruffled your feathers. i really thought the was the whole idea of posting threads on forum was for discussion and opinions.
 
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#33 ·
Chain saw bar oil can clean dirt grit saw dust and metal rust. It can lube a high speed chain at extreme high and low temperatures it sells foe $4.99 per gallon at Wally World. Humm? Now would you believe many expensive gun oils are the same product at higher prices? The American public makes many millionaire business men.;):D
i will also counter that chain-saw bar oil has an additive that makes it tacky so that it clings to the saw chain because it is moving so fast. that is part of how it keeps the saw chain lubricated and cooled.

a lot of people discuss using ATF fluid. ATF fluid is essentially just hydraulic oil, since most automatic transmissions are nothing more that very complex hydraulic systems. many times hydraulic fluids contain additives that are meant to keep seals lubricated so they don't dry out and leak.
 
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#34 ·
Well if the viscosity of oil is low you will not have a lubricating coating. I really doubt in the science of viscosity we relate it to "clinging"? I suspect you need to study the ATF fluids and hydraulic application both aircraft and automobile.
Any low viscosity lube that does not coat does not reduce friction and heat between moving parts. Now, if you use too much of any lube you will get a negative result.
 
#35 ·
Well if the viscosity of oil is low you will not have a lubricating coating. I really doubt in the science of viscosity we relate it to "clinging"? I suspect you need to study the ATF fluids and hydraulic application both aircraft and automobile.
Any low viscosity lube that does not coat does not reduce friction and heat between moving parts. Now, if you use too much of any lube you will get a negative result.
ATF is used in many industrial applications as a hydraulic fluid.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_transmission_fluid

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_fluid

and here is some information on chain saw bar oil i dug up, discussing the stickiness of the oil.

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/chainsaw-bar-oil-alternative-101827.html
 
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#36 ·
ATF is used in many industrial applications as a hydraulic fluid.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_transmission_fluid

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_fluid

and here is some information on chain saw bar oil i dug up, discussing the stickiness of the oil.

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/chainsaw-bar-oil-alternative-101827.html
This thread looks like spam for a multi-level marketed product . See how many repeated posts by the OP appear .
thegunzone.com tested many lubricants and rated BreakFree CLP the best for rust prevention . The military uses similar CLP . I'll stick ( or slide ) with BreakFree .
Obviously, Mobil 1 has been used by enough gun guys to know it works fine, too.
 
#40 ·
Clean with hoppes or sometimes wd 40. I know I know wd 40 horror stories.
Used it for decades to clean lube and store long and handguns.
Never a problem.

Hoppes if I'm brushing the bore.

Used all kind of lubes over the years. Always come back to plain old 3 and 1 oil.
 
#43 ·
Clean with hoppes or sometimes wd 40. I know I know wd 40 horror stories.
Used it for decades to clean lube and store long and handguns.
Never a problem.

Hoppes if I'm brushing the bore.

Used all kind of lubes over the years. Always come back to plain old 3 and 1 oil.
WD-40 did surprisingly poorly in thegunzone.com rust prevention test and one other test I heard about . The new WD-40 Specialist line includes a rust prevention product that may be entirely different . My personal experience with WD-40 indicates that it is a poor rust preventer but works well as a lubricant on guns, car door lock cylinders, squeaky door hinges on everything from microwave ovens to car doors and on folding knife pivot points .
Some powder solvents can damage plated nickel parts like Glock frame rails
so I generally use them only to clean the bore . I use BreakFree CLP to clean all parts of guns routinely and wipe off as much residue as I can with a dry cloth , leaving a very thin film to prevent rust . If I want to remove all oil from a bore or the whole gun , I use Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber or a similar product made by other companies .
To remove deposits from a dirty bore, I sometimes wet the bore with Breakfree CLP and let it sit for hours before running some wet patches through it, brushing, and running another wet patch or two . Before shooting, I run a dry patch or one wet with Gun Scrubber .
 
#41 ·
@CowboyBill
If you decided to stick around, I think the truth is oil is just oil.

My son said I had to get Miltech, caused it worked so well on his knives. Well it is a good product, and if I spent the time to find the Mobile 1 specs I'd guess it isn't that much different.

But I also got these neat little applicator bottles which no one has mention. Can you every get such a cool bottle? And it even has a lid so it won't get dirty when it evaporates.:)

Use whatever you like.
 
#48 ·
From everything I've read, looks like synthetic motor oil is the best gun oil. Now as for the best gun cleaner? I've been using Gunzilla and yes it is somewhat expensive, well, about the price of a box of 9mm target ammo. I don't see how Automatic Transmission Fluid can be used to dissolve burnt powder, lead and copper fouling etc. How well does this work compared to Hoppe's etc.
 
#50 ·
I go with low tech, old fashioned , Ed's Red Bore Cleaner and Ed's Red Compatable Gun Oil . Do a search for the recipes.
Lucas Gun Oil looks , feels and smells a whole lot like automatic transmission fluid ...kinda pricey for ATF in a little bottle...just saying !
Compare Lucas Gun Oil to Ed's Red Gun Oil and see what you think.
Gary
 
#53 ·
Ballistol, the German military used it for 40 years and many members here still do. I have a couple of cans here.
CowboyBill drank the koolaid and could not get passed the fact that he had been sold a bill of goods.
Instead of driving the buckaroo off, we should have introduced him to Amway, Kirby or perhaps Rainbow vacuums.
 
#56 ·
There's most likely several of you folks here who get the Brownells catalog. If I remember correctly, there's well over a dozen pages that offer some sort of gun lube/cleaner/protector. I've tried quite a few of what they offer, but there's no way I'm gonna try all of 'em.
I felt I gotta settle on one particular CLP, and go with that offering until something better can be PROVEN. The one I'm using and stocking for the last 10 years is EEZOX.
With two wet coats through a .22 rimfire barrel, with each coat left to sit for 15 minutes, and then a dry felt plug pulled through, the barrel doesn't accumulate as much debris from .22 rimfire ammunition, and after a shooting session, all I need to do is pull a wet plug through the bore with my weed-whacker line. Done and protected. Put some EEZOX on an old t-shirt and wipe the bluing, never will have any rust get the opportunity to form.
 
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