Firearm & Gun Forum - FireArmsTalk.com > Long Guns > Auto & Semi-Auto Discussion > Mini-14 Forum > TIPS ON ACCURIZING THE MINI-14, Part Two

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Old 03-13-2010, 05:28 PM   #1
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Default TIPS ON ACCURIZING THE MINI-14, Part Two

GAS PORT BUSHINGS:
Most Mini's from the factory utilize too much gas pressure to operate the action. This results in spent brass being sent into the next county, un-necessary battering of the action and scope, if you use one. Mini-14s are notorious for sending scopes to an early grave. The standard gas port bushing from the factory has an inside diameter of .080", depending on the model. Installing a bushing with an inside diameter of .040" to .060" will result in the brass being ejected between 5' to 8' depending on the loads you are using. It will also decrease the battering of the action and scope if you use one. Felt recoil will also be less, usually resulting in tighter groups. It is also usefull to re-loaders, as it eliminates brass denting on ejection.
If you do change gas bushings, just make sure that the one you choose will function the action 100% with the loads you are using. Anything less will not do !!!!!!!!!! There is also an adjustable gas block available, but is a little pricy. They do however, let you adjust the gas pressure for the load you are using without having to change bushings..
For more info on reduced sized gas port bushings and where to obtain them, send me a PM and I will get back with you.....


BUFFERS:
I use front and rear buffers in My Mini's to further reduce battering, action noise and felt recoil. There are Mini-14 specific buffers on the market, but I found that 1911 buffers work very well and last about as long in the Mini as they do in the 1911. They also don't cost much. I use one as they come for the rear and shave the front buffer to about 1/2 it's thickness for the gas block. The gas block buffer will need to be changed more often than the rear buffer will. Again, make sure that the action functions 100% when using buffers. Below are photos of how the buffers are installed.
Yes, as you can see, I need to install a new buffer in my gas block.

rearbuffer.jpg   frontbuffer.jpg  
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:07 AM   #2
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I was told by Ruger that they had fixed the excessive vibration problem w my version of the mini-14. Were they pulling my leg ? I'm having some jamming issues but it was old South African ammo. Problem was my buds mini-14 just ate it up w/o a hitch which he never lets me forget...

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Old 02-11-2012, 06:01 PM   #3
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Found that adding a heavy Shilen barrel and some trigger work turned my mini 14 into a one MOA prairie dog gun. The Shilen barrel is .910 inches after the gas block. Normal size from chamber to the gas block and heavy barrel from gas block to port results in no barrel whip. Inexpensive too. Good shooting to you. Dgang

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Old 02-11-2012, 06:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgang View Post
Found that adding a heavy Shilen barrel and some trigger work turned my mini 14 into a one MOA prairie dog gun. The Shilen barrel is .910 inches after the gas block. Normal size from chamber to the gas block and heavy barrel from gas block to port results in no barrel whip. Inexpensive too. Good shooting to you. Dgang
Looks like a work of art. Nicely done!
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:55 PM   #5
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Hey guys, I just purchased a mini and kind of figured out most of the things in this guide. My thought upon purchasing the rifle was to upgrade to a shorter barrel and a proper (or maybe adjustable) gas block after getting a little range time with it. Now, it appears gas blocks come in various diameters for various barrel outer diameters. Is that the ONLY difference? Or is there something Im missing? Basically, after getting a short barrel would I need to change the gas block again?

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Old 11-10-2013, 02:54 PM   #6
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The barrel diameter would be the difference in the adjustable model gas block. The easiest way to get a shorter barrel would be to send it to a gunsmith and have it cut and crowned. If you do a barrel change, you have index the gas port and set the head space to the bolt.

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