GAS PORT BUSHINGS:
Most Mini's from the factory utilize too much gas pressure to operate the action. This results in spent brass being sent into the next county, un-necessary battering of the action and scope, if you use one. Mini-14s are notorious for sending scopes to an early grave. The standard gas port bushing from the factory has an inside diameter of .080", depending on the model. Installing a bushing with an inside diameter of .040" to .060" will result in the brass being ejected between 5' to 8' depending on the loads you are using. It will also decrease the battering of the action and scope if you use one. Felt recoil will also be less, usually resulting in tighter groups. It is also usefull to re-loaders, as it eliminates brass denting on ejection.
If you do change gas bushings, just make sure that the one you choose will function the action 100% with the loads you are using. Anything less will not do !!!!!!!!!! There is also an adjustable gas block available, but is a little pricy. They do however, let you adjust the gas pressure for the load you are using without having to change bushings..
For more info on reduced sized gas port bushings and where to obtain them, send me a PM and I will get back with you.....
BUFFERS:
I use front and rear buffers in My Mini's to further reduce battering, action noise and felt recoil. There are Mini-14 specific buffers on the market, but I found that 1911 buffers work very well and last about as long in the Mini as they do in the 1911. They also don't cost much. I use one as they come for the rear and shave the front buffer to about 1/2 it's thickness for the gas block. The gas block buffer will need to be changed more often than the rear buffer will. Again, make sure that the action functions 100% when using buffers. Below are photos of how the buffers are installed.
Yes, as you can see, I need to install a new buffer in my gas block.
TIPS ON ACCURIZING THE MINI-14, Part Two
Linear Mode
