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Old 10-04-2010, 01:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
If you want a semi auto rifle buy a mini and put a little patience into it. Ill try to keep everyone updated.
I'm curious...Is this project beginning with a newer Mini-14 with the tapered barrel, or a pre-580-series Mini-14 with a traditional barrel?
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Old 10-04-2010, 03:36 PM   #12
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Smithy,
Will help in any way we can with your Mini project. Keep us updated with progress.

Jim...................
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:49 AM   #13
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From what I've seen and heard most of the anti-mini people want moa at 300yds and what the Mini was made for was 2" to 3" groups @ 200yds. I love my SS Mini-14 with a Leupold 4x scope, always reliable and easy to clean and a hoot to shoot.
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:13 AM   #14
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Mini 14s are just plain fun to shoot. The action is smooth and machine like in its motion. I could shoot all day long and not get fatigued. Always brings a smile to my face when I shoot it. Wouldn't trade if for any black rifle.
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:51 AM   #15
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I too an a Smith, just a retired one.

The Mini is a great gun for a Smith, because there is so much to do to improve the accuracy.

See the accurizing section and my post on bedding the gas block.
If you have questions, there is very little I have not tried with a mini, so fire away.

Cryo treatment is great on them also.

John K
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:03 AM   #16
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Hey, this Mini-14 section of the FAT Forum now has 3 gunsmiths participating...

- masterPsmith
- smithy
- rifleman55

That can be a real benefit to the rest of us Mini enthusiasts. Thanks for your input guys...
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:22 AM   #17
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I've owned three Minis - a 180 and 181 series and my current 580.
I never had problems with accuracy or dependability.

What I'd like to know is, will all these accuracy improvements affect the reliability of the rifle? My minis have been very reliable, and I'm not willing to do anything to compromise that.
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:13 AM   #18
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Hi welcome. I'm a retired gunsmith and have worked a considerable amount on the Mini's.
To get groups that will shoot with the better AR's, you are going to have to rebarrel the rifle, Ruger likes to put 13 different diameters in their new barrels and they are not really made for accuracy.
The throat is about 12.5 miles down in the barrel, has a huge amount of bullet jump. I just measured OOL of a 5.56 cartridge with a 69 grn MK bullet and the OOL with the bullet just hitting the rifling was 2.47", the bullet just has a little of the shank in the case at that length and won't eject, too long to make it out of the action. Adjustment and torque of the gas block is critical to accuracy.

Second problem is a fairly masive amount of weight of the OP Rod.

In stock form with just bedding the action and gas block, Cryo treatment of the barreled action and a trigger job, .92" @ 100, 5 shots is the best I've got from my Tactical. That was with a red dot (Millet DMS-1). Good target scope would have closed the group a little more.

Rebarreled, you can get at least 1/2 MOA at 100, maybe better.

It's a solid rifle, there are some QC problems from the new factory guns, so check out whatever gun you get carefully, the scope mounts on many are not cut right. Myself and another smith got Ken Farrel to make a really good scope rail that does not depend on the scallops of the original scope mounts. For some reason, Ruger has a real problem with them.

One other thing, rebarrel and Ruger won't touch it should you break a FP and the only aftermarket one's are junk.
Any other modifications made will be removed if it has to go to Ruger for any reason. There have been some defective bolts also.

After going around and around with Ruger over the many problems mine had as a new rifle, I will never buy another Ruger product.

All of that said, they are a great rifle to shoot, neat design though the bolt/FP could use a redesign.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. There is very little I don't know about the rifle and I know all it's faults well.

I enjoy shooting mine, but it was never really desgined as much more tha a 2 MOA rifle without some work. I have yet to build a strut for the shorter barrel on the Tactical, but am sure it would help some also.
Some of the Mini Target versions with the barrels with tuners are shooting sub MOA groups. I have not worked with one to improve the accuracy, but it would be the best place to start if your looking to outshoot AR's without rebarreling. You just migh acomplish your goal with that model and not have to deal with the barrel issue should you break a FP.

I'm not a Mini hater by any means, I do very much dislike Ruger and their policys. Just too many people getting bad rifles which should have been caught in QC.

I have no desire to get a Target model, but it would be fun to get one to really shoot.
Do PM with anything, I'm sure your a good smith, but sometimes it's easier to have someone get you up to speed if you have never really worked on the accuracy of a Mini.

Trying to get really good accuracy from a thin barreled mini is far harder than one of the new ones due to the barrel diameter.
If you are going to stick with the thin barrel, the first thing to do is get it Cryo treated, otherwise it will string badly as it gets hotter.
A strut helps, but the skinny barrel is a major problem. I got my older skinny barreled Mini to shoot well, but always had to keep it from getting too hot. It was a real pain. I never did get it cryo treated, but did Cryo my Tactical barrel with great results.

John K

Last edited by rifleman55; 01-26-2011 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVwheelgunner View Post
I've owned three Minis - a 180 and 181 series and my current 580.
I never had problems with accuracy or dependability.

What I'd like to know is, will all these accuracy improvements affect the reliability of the rifle? My minis have been very reliable, and I'm not willing to do anything to compromise that.
No compromise at all, in fact, it will just be more fun to shoot because of the more accurate groups.
The only thing that can be trouble is Rugers policy of putting everthing back to stock should you have to send your rifle to them for repair.
If modified and your rifle needs fixing, as long as it's not a restricted part that need replacement, fix it yourself of send it to a good smith, not Ruger.
Ruger does not charge to rip out everthing you have done, but it's just a pain because you have to re do everything. If rebarreled, save the old barrel because Ruger will not fix a rifle that has been rebarreled with anything but a stock Ruger barrel.
The only mod I don't like is a front buffer. Sometimes they cause no problems, but if too thick, they will not let the bolt lock up all the way.
When I sent my Tactical in because of the defective scope mounts, they replaced all my trigger parts, no charge, removed the bedding of the gas block and then put the gas block back on crooked, then chipped the OP rod cover. I exchanged my Choate cover for the stock one before sending it in. They didn't seem to care that the muzzle was re crowned.

John K

Last edited by rifleman55; 01-26-2011 at 09:34 PM.
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