Mini-14 Flash Hider Group Buy
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:57 AM   #1
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Default Mini-14 Flash Hider Group Buy

I am a member of perfectunion. I haven't been to this site but like it already. Anyhow I have posted this to a couple of sites I use and thought I would share it with my mini brothers here:

If you have a mini-14 tactical and have tried to get a new flash hider you know whats up.
The mini 14 tactical 580's and some 581's have 9/16x24 tpi instead of the standard 1/2x28. There are very few flash hiders that are in this strange pattern for 556. So I have been contacting companies to see if I could get one threaded for us. One company came through and for a one off they want 100 but the more people who buy the lower the price.
This is the flash hider reg. price 59

If you like this style and are ever thinking of changing the flash hider get in on this. I have done the leg work and there are very few choices out there. NONE that look remotely like this

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Old 02-14-2012, 03:00 PM   #2
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I have a 9/16x24TPI tap I purchased from Enco. With one you can anneal the base if needed and drill and tap for a lot less money. Just a thought.

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Old 02-14-2012, 05:00 PM   #3
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talk to me gundoc. I am not a super smith but I do all my own work and haven't have any problems yet....knock on wood. what is the exact way to do this? If I buy any 1/2x28 flash hider I can re tap it for 9/16? Any and all help would be appreciated. I just like the more "shocking" flash hider but just cant find one in 9/16

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Old 02-15-2012, 03:11 PM   #4
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Sure, it's a project you could manage at home. Since most flash hiders have wide ID's there's no real issue with bullet strike. In other words you don't have to be within thousandths of an inch to make it work. Some FH's are hardened, some are quite soft. If it's hardened heat it up to anneal it and then drill and tap. You can then re-harden or leave it. Gun barrels are quite soft and the muzzle blast won't eat a soft part appreciably faster than a hard one. Some parts need to be hardened to work as designed, such as the Smith Vortex, most don't.

This won't be the pro job of drilling, reaming, threading concentrically, etc. - but it will do the job and look/fit fine if you take your time and do a good job. if you have access to a good drill press that'll help.

If you only plan to do one, it may be cheaper to have it done by a local smith or machine shop. Check your local community college to see if they have a machining class and would do it very close to free for the experience. If you plan to do a few then the tap pays for itself quickly.

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Old 02-15-2012, 06:34 PM   #5
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Doc,

I added an overtravel screw to my stainless trigger group a couple of weeks ago and had a terrible time tapping the hole. I got it done, but at the expense of the tap. Is there a hardness concern with threading a stainless barrel or rethreading a stainless flash hider? Maybe you could elaborate as it pertains to your instructions above.

I think your answer may overlap another topic that we can move to another thread if needed. I am planning some experimentation with the length 0f my barrel (ala' Zman) using Dave Manson's military recrowning kit. After I settle where I want, i'll be asking my local smith to thread my barrel to 1/2-28 for a Tray flash hider I have. My ambition is reducing the grouping of my thin barrel 580, currently shooting 1.5 moa without a strut. I'm another DIY nut that enjoys the journey as much as the destination.

Thx

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Old 02-16-2012, 03:15 PM   #6
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I hope you threw that tap away. The majority of components in any Mini are cast and super hard. The barrels however are not, and the stainless from the 196 series up is especially nice to work with. I throw a stainless barrel in my lathe and it's like working with butter. Your Manson kit will work well for you. Flash hiders and brakes run the gamut of hard and not. I use a file on the backside to determine how hard. if the file makes a light cut it's soft, and if it skids across the surface it's harder than the file. In that case you can heat the part to just about critical and then let it cool off naturally. That will soften it up so you can work with it. It's not without its downside, the stainless will discolor and need to be refinished whether or not you decide to leave it soft or re-harden it. Remember that gun barrels bulge a little when shooting. that's how they measure chamber pressures - special transducers attached to the outside of the barrel measure the bulge and you get a measure in CUPs of the pressure. That's one reason most of us working on Minis recommend about 36 INCH pounds of torque at the gas block. You have a bullet sizzling along doing its thing and it slams into a bottleneck if the gas block is too tight and then it comes out the other side to a nice stretchy barrel again. Not a good thing.

It's generally accepted that around 17" is a good barrel length for all around use. The only way to determine the absolute optimal barrel length is to cut it too short and see groups open up again. You're done at that point, but at least you know where it was for that barrel and load. Your choice of muzzle part will effect the results as well. Heavy parts add dampening mass, as it has to be accelerated to begin to whip about. The law of inertia is on your side here. If you're currently shooting 1.5MOA a simple change in load or muzzlebrake could drop that annoying .5MOA right out of the groups.

I respect the strut guys, and my competition for what they do, but I decided to fill that niche of non-strut, non-10 lb barrel upgrade and make accurate Minis. With the right work and the right shooter influence many of the rifles I've built have gone on to sub-MOA groups. Most don't, and the Mini was originally billed as "the world's most expensive plinker" by none other than Bill Ruger himself. Have there been changes for the better? - yes, but not appreciable ones. There's more odd well shooting rifles coming off the line, but in general they still group 3-5 MOA with commercial ammo. So the Mini can be made into a respectable shooter without a strut or heavy barrel. But be careful of the abyss the road to ragged holes from a Mini leads you to. Mini-Madness is worse than BRD anyday and harder to cure.

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Old 02-16-2012, 08:12 PM   #7
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Thanks Doc. Yep, not my first Mini, so I am well aware of the madness.

I did throw away the tap, after digging the broken piece out of my trigger housing. It took a torch to do that, It did discolor and it was softer the second time. Go figure!

You confirmed my suspicions, so i'll order my tools from Manson today and have some fun with it. I didn't really want to go down to 16", but I have wondered about the accuracy of those cut down to 14.5". We'll see how it goes.

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