Bedding The Gas Block


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Old 11-30-2010, 10:57 PM   #1
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Driggs,Idaho
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Default Bedding The Gas Block

I just want to take a minute to introduce myself here. I'm new to this forum. I'm a retired gunsmith and have a lot of experience with the Mini as it's one of my primary weapons if things go south. I have an older one as well as a new Tactical.
I'm sure there are more than a few people on this forum who know a lot about Mini's, so I don't want to come off as a know it all, but I do know my way around the Mini 14 pretty darn good and have done extensive experimintation on them to find out what works and what does not.

A thread on another forum suggested free floating the gas block. I had bedded mine. My accuracy went right out the window when I free floated the gas block. On a regular rifle, you don't have the weight of the gas block and the OP rod sliding on the barrel.
I have found as have countless others who have tried it, that bedding the gas block really helps the acuracy, but it must be done right.

The first thing to do is to make sure that the gas block is free floated from the ring on the liner, you do not want it to hit the liner anywhere.
This can be checked by running a piece of thick paper, using the corner of the paper all the way around the inside lip of the gas block.

If there is any contact, file metal off the liner until it does not touch anywhere.

The importance of this is that once the gas block is bedded, you don't want any pressure to be put on the gas block from any direction, it must find it's own center.

Once you have made sure there is no contact, rough up he liner all the way around the ring that goes under the lip of the gas block so that the bedding compound will stick to the liner.

You can use any number of different types of bedding compound as long as it's thick enough not to run.
I use 5 Minute JB weld epoxy. The JB is the quickest and has held up fine on my rifle. I had Steel Bed on mine, but Ruger was nice enough to remove it when I sent the gun in with a FP problem, I then used the JB and it has held up with zero problems and was easier to clean off the extra.

I should say right from the start, that if for some reason it does not work on your rifle, you just need to remove the bedding and your back to the original way it was, so thee is nothing to loose in trying this.

First thing to do is to remove the gas block, clean it well. You are going to strip the rifle of it's major parts.

Once the liner ring is ready, cover the inside and the sides of the gas block with a good release agent. Make sure you do not miss any areas.

Next, mix your bedding compound and put a line of it around the ring of the liner right where the gas block contacts it. Make the line as even as possible about 3/8" thick and about the same width.

Now, put the gas bushing back in the gas block along with the gas pipe so it locates the gas block in the correct place on the barrel.

Put the bottom part of the gas block back on the rifle and slip the stock under the gas block. You can slightly lift the gas block while sliding the stock under it to not disturb the bedding compound.

Once the stock is on and the action dropped into the stock, take rubber bands and have them pull the gas block back into the stock. You want the gas block to center itself. Put the trigger assembly in the stock and lock it down. Make sure the gas block is streight and is making 100% contact with the barrel. Let the rubber band hold it forward. It will center itself, the bedding will move out of the way where it needs to because it's still soft.

Put the trigger assembly back into the stock and lock it down tight

Wait about 25 minutes if using the JB 5 minute expoxy (The JB is easier for this job than the others).
Then remove the trigger assembly and carefully remove the action from the stock.
When you first put the stock into the gas block and have locked down the trigger group, you can scrape any extra epoxy that has ozzed out between the block and stock.

Now that the action is out, the JB will still be soft enough to be cut with a razor knife to remove any that went on the front of the liner as well as trim any that is excess to the rear.

Once trimmed, carefully slide the stock back into the gas block and assemble the entire weapon. Let it sit at least 24 hours before firing it.

Once back togather, you can scrape anymore excess JB that has come out, even though it's 5 minute epoxy, it will still be slightly soft for a short while. Just make sure you have everything ready to go as it does take it's shape fairly fast. You can use rubbing alchohol on a paper towel to remove any stubborn epoxy while still fresh before it has started to harden.

You should find it shoots more acurate. You may have to re adjust your scope a little as it will change the POA a little.

This has worked on both of my Mini's and countless other one's. Give it a try, you have nothing to loose.

John K



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