Accurized 183 Woody - Page 2
You are Unregistered, please register to use all of the features of FirearmsTalk.com!    
Firearm & Gun Forum - FireArmsTalk.com > Long Guns > Auto & Semi-Auto Discussion > Mini-14 Forum >

Accurized 183 Woody


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-19-2009, 04:27 AM   #11
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
masterPsmith's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Barstow area, Kalifornia
Posts: 1,347
Liked 92 Times on 69 Posts
Likes Given: 25

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrm14 View Post
I have a couple of questions about accurizing the mini. I purchased a new 580 series mini-14 last year in .223. So far I've had a tirgger job done (now pulls just a tad over 3#) and I had a bedding job done to it. Both these mods increased the accuracy slightly as it was shooting constant 1-1/4" groups at 100 yards. With these mods it now shoots just at about 1"+ at 100 yards.

The one thing about the trigger job is that it still has alot of creep and the 2 stage feature is practically nill. I'm somewhat spoiled with Jewell triggers.

What can be done to eliminate the creep of the trigger and restore a noticable 2 stage feature of this trigger? (I want to take it down to 2#)

What improvement will a barrel strut give me on this 580 series rifle that already shoots this good? (I feel that the 580 series is quite an improvement over the older 180 series I had in the late 1970's for accuracy)

Also, I'm about to start dinking with the ammo I reload for it in the areas of clearance of bullet to throat and the shoulder of the brass clearance to the chamber (COAL). I want to "tighten" these clearances up to see if it further improves accuracy. What would be good clearances to start with on this rifle?
As far as the two stage trigger on the mini, when the trigger job is done properly and safely, there will be a slight take-up just before let-off. This slight amount of take-up should be buttery smooth and almost not noticable. When the trigger stops after take-up, it should break very clean at around 3 to 3 1/2 pounds with no creep. It should break just like a piece of glass. If it is not that way, it was not done properly.

As far as increasing the overall length of your loaded rounds to decrease the freebore area before contacting the lands in the rifling, you will run into problems with the longer rounds not fitting in the magazine. You must stay with the recomended maximum COAL or under to fit in the mags...


Jim..................................
masterPsmith is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2009, 08:27 AM   #12
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
mrm14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 2,514
Liked 374 Times on 255 Posts
Likes Given: 35

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by masterPsmith View Post
As far as the two stage trigger on the mini, when the trigger job is done properly and safely, there will be a slight take-up just before let-off. This slight amount of take-up should be buttery smooth and almost not noticable. When the trigger stops after take-up, it should break very clean at around 3 to 3 1/2 pounds with no creep. It should break just like a piece of glass. If it is not that way, it was not done properly.

As far as increasing the overall length of your loaded rounds to decrease the freebore area before contacting the lands in the rifling, you will run into problems with the longer rounds not fitting in the magazine. You must stay with the recomended maximum COAL or under to fit in the mags...


Jim..................................
I've broken the rules with my reloads on my M1A and am somewhat out of SAMMI specs and it works well with this rifle, and only this specific rifle. And yes, I can't get the tightness of tolerance that I can with a bolt gun, but I can play with these clearances and I've seen it usually help with accuracy. I do keep the ammo within the tolerence that the magazine will accomodate for the M1A. I cant help myself with developing ammo for acccuracy even in a semi auto action rifle. So far so good, I havn't experienced "slam fire" yet with these garand type actions. I dont think that I'll get a tighter bullet to throat clerance with this action due to magazine constraints, but i believe I can get the shoulder of the brass within .004" which I believe should help with "Jump". Not that this will prove to be the most accurate for this action as I have been told some of these semi autos actually are more accurate around .008" or so. I have to experiment.

What about the strut? Is it worth it for this rifle? The rifle does shoot good now for what it is. I still think ammo is where I need to go next.

What I'm looking for in this mini is a trigger that has a noticable 2 stage effect as I want to get the trigger pull on the second stage lighter like some of my bolt guns. My M1A has an excellent trigger which has been worked down to just over 2 lbs. pull on the second stage and the 2 stage feature is real noticable. The first stage is still fairly heavy solid "click" when it get it and the second stage is very light and the trigger pull can be a easily controlled squeeze on the second stage. Maby I'm asking too much for what is available.

Last edited by mrm14; 12-19-2009 at 08:35 AM.
mrm14 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2009, 02:55 PM   #13
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
masterPsmith's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Barstow area, Kalifornia
Posts: 1,347
Liked 92 Times on 69 Posts
Likes Given: 25

Default

As far as the barrel strut, if you are shooting MOA now, you don't need it. The only reason to fit one now would be if you were vertical stringing when the barrel heats up.

As far as 2 pounds on the trigger, I feel that is too light to be safe on the Mini. Also some High Power matches allow the use of the Mini-14 and you would not be able to compete with a 2 pound trigger pull per trigger weight rules. Your M1A would not be legal either. But if you do go to a 2 pound pull on your Mini, I suggest you use a smaller gas port bushing (size requirements will vary depending on rifle) and buffers to tone the action down.

Sounds like you have already achieved good MOA accuracy with your Mini. If you make any more changes, just make sure they are reversible in case it goes the other way.

Good shootin,
Jim.........................................
masterPsmith is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2009, 05:36 PM   #14
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
mrm14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 2,514
Liked 374 Times on 255 Posts
Likes Given: 35

Default

Thanks for you're input Jim.
mrm14 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2009, 04:09 AM   #15
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
glenthoughts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 76
Default

This is Chuck with his AMAZING Mini 14 just done by Jim.

Accurized 183 Woody - Mini-14 Forum


Another on the bench, Chuck did a 5 shot group of "about" 1 1/4 inch, open sights, 100 yards, if I remember right. I was to busy having fun with my scoped 10/22.

Accurized 183 Woody - Mini-14 Forum
__________________
glenthoughts
http://glenthoughts.blogspot.com

My .45 is a part of me, I trust it with my life, and train with it. First one to the giblets wins. ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
glenthoughts is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2009, 09:11 PM   #16
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
glenthoughts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 76
Default

My next rifle will be a Mini 14, and Jim will then do his magic on it.

I PROMISED my wife a new Mac (photographer she is) after the 10/22 before any more firearms of any kind.

After i get her the computer, (price a stinkin mac these days sheez) then i will look for a good condition stock used Mini 14. I want it to be box stock so I Jim does not have to deal with wayward experiments on it.

I am so jealous of Chuck's Mini 14, it is simply amazing...
__________________
glenthoughts
http://glenthoughts.blogspot.com

My .45 is a part of me, I trust it with my life, and train with it. First one to the giblets wins. ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
glenthoughts is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2010, 03:02 AM   #17
KMO
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
KMO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: No. Arizona
Posts: 339
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default .060" Gas Port Bushing?

I'm just curious to know how masterPsmith arrived at .060" for the ID on the gas port bushing. I've gone with bushings with an ID as small as .040" and the rifle still cycled dependably, and spent brass was still tossing about 6-8 feet. I did have a 187-series, though, that wouldn't cycle until I drilled out the bushing to .051". Funny how these rifles behave differently from one another. Anyway, Jim, is .060" small enough to make much of a difference from the factory ID of .085"?
__________________
"In God We Trust"
www.SunflowerAmmo.com
www.Mo-Rod.com
KMO is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2010, 03:12 PM   #18
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
masterPsmith's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Barstow area, Kalifornia
Posts: 1,347
Liked 92 Times on 69 Posts
Likes Given: 25

Default

KMO,
One size is not a cure-all for all Mini's. Each rifle is individual in itself, along with the loads being used. When I am working on a Mini and selecting a gas port bushing for it, I usually try three sizes, .060", .050" and .040". I test each size with three different loads and use the one that works best within this test while giving 100% reliability. This testing takes a little range time, but is well worth it without guessing which bushing to use. If needed, I can machine bushings of any size to suite an individual rifle and load. Also, on your question, any reduction in size of the gas port bushing will have an affect on the operation of the action. How much, depends on the individual rifle and the loads being used. Hope this helps.............


Jim.................

Last edited by masterPsmith; 04-06-2010 at 03:18 PM.
masterPsmith is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Firearms Forum Replies Last Post
Now this is funny...Woody vs Zombies skullcrusher The Club House 0 04-11-2009 01:55 PM



Newest Threads