[signofbarsoom]

I took a chance and ordered one of these from J&G gun sales for $499. With an extra mag, freight, and FFL fee, my total was $596. Since it showed up today, I haven't shot it yet but I wanted to give my first impressions. After I strip it down tonight it will be ready for the range. It's going to be a great weekend here in Idaho so I shouldn't have a problem updating this before it's over. Here's a pic to start off:



From what I've read there are two receivers being installed on these rifles. The first is a painted receiver with serial # on the side. These scratch easily. I received the other type that is parkerized and has the serial # on top. From what I have read, and I have no idea if this is true, these receivers are closer to the original HK receivers.

The butt-stock and forearm grips look bad. They are pretty scratched up and have been sprayed with a shiny textured paint that looks silly with the flat black of the receiver. There are no major dings, however, and I'm not too concerned about this because I want to paint them a dark green.

Both magazines were well worn and the extra was expensive ($50). One of them has a good ding but both fit great. I had heard of some fitting issues but not mine. They were full of grit and will get some lovin too.

Sights look straight. The rear site swivels despite reports that others have had problems with them.

Here's the big one. Complaints of head space being too little abound. Head space on these rifles shrinks as they wear. Mine is a decent .016 (.406mm). Whew! I'll re-report this # after this weekend.

Knock on wood, I'm encouraged. Right now I'm going to stop writing and tear into it.

Later

[Gojubrian]

Nice! I'll be waiting anxiously. What caliber is it?

[signofbarsoom]

Not looking bad inside. Metal grit from machining is the biggest thing. Its was making the slide tight. The bolt assembly is sitting in front of me. I need to figure out how to get it disassembled. Got a G3 manual and the internet so I'll get that done before bed. Then back together before I forget how it came apart!!!

Caliber is .223 /5.56. Barrel has 1/9 twist.

[signofbarsoom]

Well, although it was a great day here and we had some fun, I'm sorry to report that the C-93 did not perform well. My son and I saved her for last. Unfortunately, it was not the best. Here is the first shot:



And here is the result:



We used 55gr .223 FMJ in two brands (Fiocchi and Aguila). For each round fired we had a failure to eject. We only went through 10 rounds each and gave it up for the day.

The bolt face looks clean and I seem to have a positive engagement with the extractor:



So I guess I need to do some more research. I'm sure it can be figured out. Any ideas?

[Gojubrian]

That sux man.

[CA357]

I'm clueless, but good luck. I'm sure it's a pretty basic fix.

[afi1]

The way the retarded roller bolt works, it's subject to stove-pipes if the chamber isn't spottless. Make sure you get a good brush to it and some Hopps. Don't shoot cheap laquered ammo either. The rifles are also prone to have some issues during a wear-in period as well. Keep her real clean and put a few hundred rounds down range and things should get better for you. Hope that helps.

[afi1]

Wow, I'm a tard. I guess I should have waited for the rest of the pictures to load before responding. I have no clue what's up with your extractor. Those rifles are known to have a stupid strong extractor that'll dent brass and throw it 15 or 20 yards. Go figure.

[signofbarsoom]

It's definitely a cycling problem. Not being accustomed to semi-auto rifles its coming slowly but I realized that hand cycling always ejects a case. In other words the case stays positively attached to the bolt face until its fully retracted and the case is knocked out of the chamber by the ejector.

So why is the bolt not cycling all the way rearward??? Round goes bang, pressure shoves bolt back, but not all the way... so I figure there is too much resistance against the bolt.

It is hard to rack the slide back so I took it apart last night and cleaned it again. I really didn't find much more of that manufacturing grit inside. Must have got it the first time. Also, the bolt moves freely inside the rifle body. It's not a tight fit but its not too loose where it would bind if canted. I like my guns clean so I usually coat lightly with Breekfree CLP. Maybe I need to run my rifle wetter? So she is sitting in the safe with a thick coat of CLP inside. Unfortunately, it will be awhile before I get to take her out again. I racked it back a forth many times. Maybe its freed it up some but I'm not confident.

Two more things:
The recoil spring seems to be in fine shape. It doesn't bind at all and doesn't seem to have an excessive tension on it. Of course, that's not very scientific so if anyone has something to say about that let me know.

Finally, and this is probably a complete long shot, since I was shooting .223 I got 20rds of 5.56 to try. The rifle is chambered for it but it shouldn't have had a problem with the .223.

[afi1]

So you can easily cycle the action manually without a round in the chamber correct? If that's the case, it could be that the chamber has too much build up, and/or the rollers haven't broken in completely. It's probably the former. When I say chamber, I mean where the casing fits into the barrle. It's important that there be nothing inside there what so ever. Scrub like crazy with some solvent. Also, don't over lube the rifle. Too much oil inside the chamber can actually cause the casing to "stick," thus when fired not allowing the bolt to cycle all the way back before the gasses escape around the cassing in through the flutes. Hope it helps. Try loading up a magazine and manually cycling all the rounds through a few times.