Originally Posted by jasonpa
my friend just dropped off his 300 winmag and his new counter sniper 3-25x56 for me to put on and sight in.i do this all the time for my friends.i mount the scope.the 1st thing i find wrong is that the rings wont lay flush to the base because of the bolt that you tighten the mounts with hits and wont go down into the grove.so i dremel the weaver base to make the groves big enough.that worked but shouldnt have had to be done.next i bore sight it and it dosent have enough adjustment to even bore sight it.i know you can shim it but this is ridicoulus on a supposedly quality tactical scope that our military supposedly uses.which i highly doubt but i could be wrong with our current administration.next i look through the scope at my 100yd target to find that the scope is hazy,so i assume this is a focal adjustment.i adjusted it every way possible and it is just a hazy scope.then i shot it.after the first shot there was a black floater in the scope.after the second shot it cleared up.i would never buy one of these scopes.i would buy a tasco 1st and that will never happen.i think these scopes are a scam.in counter snipers defense it is possible that this is just a bad scope but if this is an example of all of there scopes they are junk.i hate junk scopes
When mounting scopes check to see that Weaver style rings are used on Weaver style bases. Mixing Weaver style and Picatinny style tends to cause problems, as they are similar but not the same. There are a couple of styles of Pic ring, one of them has a rounded cross bar. Sounds like this is what you encountered. Fitting it without properly milling it is next to futile.
Also, rings should always be lapped and properly torqued. These are the two main reasons a scope will be cloudy. If the scope is cloudy out of the box (before mounting) there is a problem. But if it looks clear until it is mounted, then goes cloudy after mounting, it needs lapping and torquing.
If a scope is mounted and suffers some "flex" in the process it is common for minute pieces of glue, paint, etc to "pop free" and become "floaters". The best way to see them is to look through the objective end. It acts like a microscope and will show any loose particles.