Scope base, rings and scope - Page 2
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:58 AM   #11
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Thanks, JonM for the information. I never could figure out how those bases accommodate the rings - but now I think I understand.

I do want to be able to remove the scope at least at some point in time.
then you want the mounts i described one or two piece both work fine or a picatinny rail with adm qd mounts.

one piec rails tend to make loading a bolt gun from the top a lot harder and can sometimes muck with cartridge or shell case ejection depending on rifle design.
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Old 11-20-2013, 03:04 AM   #12
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pictured below are standard two piece base drift adjustable for windage. the matching rings mate up with front and rear base respectively so initial mounting of the front ring which typically has the hole goes on at a 90 degree angle to the rifle. the rear ring only one screw is removed the base is twisted into position in a swinging motion. to get initial line up the front ring and rear ring lower halves are set in place it often takes a wring wrench as pictured to properly attach the front ring without damaging the ring itself. that wrench runs about 14$. you can do it with a crescent wrench and some padding ut you risk ring damage. put the rear base on tighten the screw down that you removed to slide the base on clamping it in place. test fit the scope to front and rear bases twist front base WITHOUT the scope and retest fit till it sits without any stress on the scope. often people (gunsmiths) attach both rings to the scope and force fit them together. this can easily damage the scope. once you have the rings setup level the rifle then level the scope using some cheap hardware levels or the wheeler level-level-level system. once both are level then torque down the top ring halves using your inch pound torque wrench which any true rifle person should have. once its all set the scope is then mechanically zeroed (DO NOT BORE SIGHT AND ADJUST WINDAGE WITH THE SCOPE DIAL!!!! thats another spot gunsmiths screw up) windage is adjusted using the rear base screws and ideally shooting till your left/right is spot on using just the base. this is achieved by loosining the screw in the direction you want to move the scope then tighting the other screw and locking everything back down to test fire. repeat until windage is correct. if you do it right you should never have to touch the windage knob on the scope. once you have it all siighted in the scope can be removed for cleaning as needed and will return to zero by removing ONE windage screw and twisting the scope off. so long as the other screw isnt nudged (good idea to lock tite it in place once windage is set) you wont lose zero. the benefit of a good inch pound torque wrench is you can change tension on the action screws which can greatly increase or decrease accuracy. improperly tensioned action screws can greatly affect the accuracy of your rifle in a negative way by up to as much as 3 inches of groups size or more. in fact i have a friend that bought a new savage couldnt get it to group better than 6 inches i retorqued his action screws to a nice even 45 inch pounds front back his groups immediately went sub-moa... personally i would invest in the simple cheap tools to do your own scope and such it will pay off in the shooting portion as there are damn few gunsmiths that are true smiths and you sure want find one in a big box shop.
Nominated for a sticky.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:47 PM   #13
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You may copy this page or save it as you like:

http://gotnarcosis.com/brucewittmeier/technical/ScopeBases.html

I'm not totally clear on what holds the front ring to the front base mount. Would love to see more pics.

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Old 11-22-2013, 01:11 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by wittmeba View Post
You may copy this page or save it as you like:

http://gotnarcosis.com/brucewittmeier/technical/ScopeBases.html

I'm not totally clear on what holds the front ring to the front base mount. Would love to see more pics.
the ring has a rectangular piece that fits the slot in the base. rotating it 90 degrees locks it in place and lines it up.
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Old 11-22-2013, 05:27 PM   #15
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I can see the piece of the ring that drops into the base and turns 90º to lock in place. I'm asking about the other base - one with just small round holes. How does the ring attach to that base? The one you indicate to just loosen one windage screw and then pivot the scope. It is not obvious to me.

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Old 11-22-2013, 07:10 PM   #16
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I can see the piece of the ring that drops into the base and turns 90º to lock in place. I'm asking about the other base - one with just small round holes. How does the ring attach to that base? The one you indicate to just loosen one windage screw and then pivot the scope. It is not obvious to me.
the base of the ring has small wedges which dont photgraph well that the screw heads lock into preventing the rear from moving by counter pressure on each side. you loosen on side and tightent he other to adjust windage whichever way you want and the scope rotates on the front ring base. if your scope is mechanically zeroed these rings line up the bore axis with the scope axis and will track true to as far out as you care to go.

the problem with picatinny is they have to be machined perfecty and the holes drilled perfectly to align with the axis and the rings have to be made perfectly. now this almost never happens even with the best skilled machinists.

the offset is you lose accuracy and tracking for utility when you go to a rail system. there is no free lunch one method isnt neccessarily better than others. i like the weaver base system a lot but its pretty much a one trick pony and only really good for dedicated target shooting or or hunting.
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:58 PM   #17
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Found this picture but it doesn't show any tabs extending into the rear base. The second image has the 90º turn piece and makes sense.

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Last edited by wittmeba; 11-23-2013 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:13 AM   #18
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Found this picture but it doesn't show any tabs extending into the rear base. The second image has the 90º turn piece and makes sense.

my leupold ring bases have litle inlets in the bottom for the screw heads to apply pressure evenly. they are notched square.

not all bases are made equally like every thing else avoid the ones that arent cut flat square at the bottom where the screws hit
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:28 AM   #19
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this might kinda help

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Old 11-25-2013, 01:36 AM   #20
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Thanks, Jon. I just had no idea the small tabs on the rear ring was all there is to holding it in place. Doesn't seem like much but I guess they work fine.

So once you get this zeroed in, put locktite on one side of the rear windage screws and use the other to remove the scope when needed.

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