How do you level a scope? - Page 2
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:47 PM   #11
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Tango, we use a jig in the shop that works for every rifle, as far as I have seen.

In the optics section, there is a reply of mine in a thread about scope, rings and something. It's post 8 in the thread and was the last one. I would post a link but I am working off the iPad and still learning.

If you need a real picture, let me know.

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Old 02-19-2011, 11:21 AM   #12
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I did my remmy 700 and my 1917 last night. Now I guess I need to go and sight them back in.

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Old 02-20-2011, 02:00 AM   #13
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I've always been perplexed by these scope levels. I've never had to buy a level (although I'm NOT a sharpshooter) but I may be able to chime in here and save a few of you a buck or 2. This is so old, I forgot where I learned it. All it requires is a bipod (I keep mine on bipods) or a clamp and a dot on the wall. I place my sandbag/shims under the stock until I have my dot in the crosshairs. I then dial my scope elevation turret all the way up without disturbing the rifle. When peering through the scope, I can see if the dot has moved to the left or right of the reticle subtension. Wash, rinse, repeat.
Whatya think? Any takers? There is also a wayyyy easy way zero scopes similar to this method... But that is a different topic.

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Old 02-20-2011, 01:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixxer View Post
I've always been perplexed by these scope levels. I've never had to buy a level (although I'm NOT a sharpshooter) but I may be able to chime in here and save a few of you a buck or 2. This is so old, I forgot where I learned it. All it requires is a bipod (I keep mine on bipods) or a clamp and a dot on the wall. I place my sandbag/shims under the stock until I have my dot in the crosshairs. I then dial my scope elevation turret all the way up without disturbing the rifle. When peering through the scope, I can see if the dot has moved to the left or right of the reticle subtension. Wash, rinse, repeat.
Whatya think? Any takers? There is also a wayyyy easy way zero scopes similar to this method... But that is a different topic.
that is an interesting method but it doesnt level the scope to the rifle. just eyeballing is good enough for deer hunting. but getting out to 300+ yards the scope needs to be level to the rifle if your doing precision target shooting.
up to 150 yards you can cant the scope 45 degrees and still shoot minute of deer.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:42 PM   #15
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Plumb bob string on the wall.
Line your reticle up with the string.

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Old 02-20-2011, 03:10 PM   #16
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Plumb bob string on the wall.
Line your reticle up with the string.
That doesn't account for leveling the rifle. You have to have a level rifle before leveling the scope or your just shooting in the dark.
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:33 PM   #17
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Stack feeler Gage shims between the scope bottom and the mount.

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Old 02-20-2011, 03:35 PM   #18
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I like the plumb bob idea. I might incorperate that into my process. To be fair, it really doesn't make a difference to me because I prefer to dial in turrets vs holding over and shooting at the bottom of the lower reticle subtension. With the calibers I'm mostly shooting (.308 and 30-06 currently), I don't have much holdover up to 200 yards to contend with. Anything past that and it's time to do a little turret dialing, IMO. I'm not a hunter; only a target shooter, so I can get away with this. Sorry guys, I wasn't thinking in terms of hunting rifles and making quick holdover shots.

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Old 02-20-2011, 03:54 PM   #19
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OK I think BIO and Fixxer hare thinking about this differently.

I am not talking about make the scope level front to back. I am talking about making sure the cross hairs are plumb and level. Stacking shims under the rear mount has nothing to do with that.

While the plumb bob sounds good. You have to have the rifle level side to side so you can plumb and lever the corsshairs.

Dialing turrets are going to make your rifle off just like hold over would if your scope is canted. If your scope is canted and you move the turret up your really moving your POI in a sideways motion along with up.

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Old 02-20-2011, 04:49 PM   #20
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The reference to feeler gauges is correct and a common method for leveling crosshairs not front to back. I have only used it when the scope is mounted on a rail (a one piece may also work ... depends on the mount)

You can use a set of automotive flat feeler gauges, I like two one from each side of the scope, resting between the rail and the bottom of the turret housing. The steel gauges are flat to the rail and therefore the flat bottom of the scope is flat to the gauges, parallel to the rail and level on the action. Tighten the rings.

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