[red ryder]

Hi guys,

Just ordered a savage 12 thumbhole stock in .223 and should be picking it up on sat.

Need help picking out a scope mounts and rings to go with it.

I was looking at the caliber specific cabellas scope which is on sale right now. I know its a budget scope but it will do for now.

What do I need/what do you recommend for mounts and rings?

Thanks

[lonyaeger]

One-piece bases are always a good idea. This product is base and rings all in one piece. You might look at this in the price range you might be looking for.... if you can find one to fit your rifle.

Game Reaper Scope Mounts : Welcome To DNZProducts.com. When Accuracy is a Must, Choose...DNZ Products, Made from top grade billet aluminum, When Accuracy is a Must, Choose...DNZ Products

[Dillinger]

You have a couple of options, a 2 piece rail or a uni-rail or 1 piece mount under the scope. I do not believe the Savage has a straight ring mounting ability.

With the two piece scope rails, you run the risk of not getting the scope directly in line with the bore. It's more difficult, especially on a factory stick that was drilled at the factory.

With a one piece rail, you have a much better chance of getting in line with the bore, but it's not perfect.

The rings will align more correctly on a one piece rail and it will at least be in line with each other. That doesn't mean it will be in line with the bore.

Now, if you take the gun to a gunsmith, they can check the front and back action screw holes to see if they are correctly aligned with the bore of the rifle. If not, they can re-drill them, which we do out of GP to a larger size hole and beefier screw anyways ( from screw size 6 to 8).

Now, you can overcome this by mounting up your rings on a two piece mount and hand lapping the lugs into alignment, and a lot of people do this. It's not uncommon.

Personally, I prefer the one piece base, with 20MOA built in. It's solid, it's rugged and you have a much better chance of getting your scope to zero and stay put right there.

Do you know if you need high or low height rings? Have you done a check on right eye / left eye dominant and how you address a rifle from a behind the scope position?

[Catfish]

I don`t think it will make much difference which mounts and ring you get, unless your going to try bench rest compation with it and then you`ll be so out classed with rifles that it won`t matter any way. As for the scope I am convinced that the Leupold VX 3 - 3 1/2 x 10 is the best alround scope you can put on any hunting rifle and the VX 2 - 3 x 9 is the second best. I recomand you not get a cheap scope, it will let you down at the worst possible time. I have bought several leupold vari X11 at gun shows for $ 200 or alittle less, and have never had a problem with any of them.

[jpattersonnh]

I have Warne Maxima weaver style bases on mine w/ Warne Maxima rings.
Steel is good! They have never slipped and my scope has never lost zero on my 7mm Rem Mag.

[red ryder]

looking at this base

Ken Farrell, Inc. -- Savage RTS-Post 2003-Low Profile in Steel Black Matte with Accu-Trigger - 0 MOA

these rings

Ken Farrell, Inc. -- 30 MM Medium Aluminum Black Matte Scope Rings

this scope

Mueller 4.5-14x40 All Purpose Tactical 30mm Riflescope

on a savage 12 with a bull barrel. i know its a budget scope but i figured i would get a good base and rings now, once i get comfortable with the rifle, i can save up for a nice scope.

thoughts?

Originally Posted by Dillinger

You have a couple of options, a 2 piece rail or a uni-rail or 1 piece mount under the scope. I do not believe the Savage has a straight ring mounting ability.

With the two piece scope rails, you run the risk of not getting the scope directly in line with the bore. It's more difficult, especially on a factory stick that was drilled at the factory.

With a one piece rail, you have a much better chance of getting in line with the bore, but it's not perfect.

The rings will align more correctly on a one piece rail and it will at least be in line with each other. That doesn't mean it will be in line with the bore.

Now, if you take the gun to a gunsmith, they can check the front and back action screw holes to see if they are correctly aligned with the bore of the rifle. If not, they can re-drill them, which we do out of GP to a larger size hole and beefier screw anyways ( from screw size 6 to 8).

Now, you can overcome this by mounting up your rings on a two piece mount and hand lapping the lugs into alignment, and a lot of people do this. It's not uncommon.

Personally, I prefer the one piece base, with 20MOA built in. It's solid, it's rugged and you have a much better chance of getting your scope to zero and stay put right there.

Do you know if you need high or low height rings? Have you done a check on right eye / left eye dominant and how you address a rifle from a behind the scope position?

[red ryder]

Anyone have experience with this. First time scoping a rifle myself.

[Dillinger]

If the scope rings are the correct height for your shooting style, you should be fine.

One thing you can do is create a jig to check the alignment.

Find a piece of plastic that isn't too thick and is pre-bent at 90 degrees. A lot of packaging these days comes with a clear pastic case around it that can work for this application.

Measure and cut the plastic so that it will slide into the rifle action on the running rails that your bolt slides in on. Generally about 4 to 6 inches in would be idle.

On the 90 degree bent part you want that standing straight up above the action so you can look "thru" it to the scope itself. You will want to take a measurement from dead center of the action bore and draw a line up the plastic in line with the center. This will give you a focal plane for the scope reticle. I will try to draw a picture here, but art is not my strong suit.

Once you mount the rail and get the rings on the rail, put the scope in the rings lightly. Turn the objective on the scope to wide open, the lowest setting. Look backwards through the scope towards the back of the rifle and insert your test jig.

With the jig in place, you can align both the "X" & "Y" access of your reticle with the center of the action. This will tell you if your screw holes are off set or if your scope is crooked in the rings ( this is called cant ).

Once you get "X" and "Y" where you want them, tighten both sets of rings like you would the lug nuts on your car. A little torque here, a little torque there, until they are good and snug. Make a final check with your jig, then tighten the screws with the recommended amount of torque.

You should then be pretty good to go. ( I apologize in advance for the drawing but I am at my desk and have ZERO drafting or other tools )