[The_Kid]

Originally Posted by axxe55

but why a milder load? wouldn't a hotter or faster load, one with lots of velocity allow more stabilized bullet flight?

The only drawback with slight instability is a slight bit more drag, which in turn reduces the effective range slightly. I have a few loads that are slightly unstable, they are still sub-moa accurate. I simply factor in a bit less distance when calculating effective range.
If extreme instability was a factor with the mild load, it could not be remedied by the velocities I can achieve.
But why would I start with a bullet I can only marginally stabilize let alone incapable of stabilizing?
My favorite extended range loads, are with bullets I can easily stabilize. With my 1 in 12 twist, I can stabilize the 150gr SST at about 1800fps; well below what my 20 inch barrel can achieve. I only need to load develop for accuracy, then calculate what the effective range is for that load.

A Calculator for Barrel Twist Rate

The longest bullet I use is the Hornady 180gr SP, (with a length of about 1.24".) I get a velocity of 1975fps using 31.8grains of Varget The twist rate calculator says I need a 1 in 11.9 twist to stabilize; but I still use it as is.
Why? Because who is to say when the next accuracy node is to occur? Is it 100fps more or 200? I probably wasn't going to get much more than 2050fps anyway.

Having to possibly deal with pressures I am not comfortable with, with a bullet that isn't going to give me more range than the 150gr SST anyway; is chasing velocity for velocity's sake.

Originally Posted by axxe55

i know that the hotter or faster load is not always the most accurate, but what type of muzzle velocity is able to get them that far?

My 150gr SST load is only going 2150fps, My Hornady manual list max velocity for 150gr bullets at 2300fps. It isn't max velocity getting me there, it is bullet type; specifically, bullets with high ballistic coefficients.

[JTJ]

Nobody seems to have a problem with a 308 shooting 600-800 yards. Shorten the range by 200 yards and you have the 30-30 with target bullets. Getting that kind of accuracy out of a lever action is rare but not completely unheard of. I know a single shot using hand loads is capable of producing sub moa with the 30-30 cartridge. My sons H&R topper with a trigger job would do it although we never tried 300 yards. We only had a 100 yard range. I believe the load was 32 gr of H4895 with a 165gr soft point neck sized. I found that in some old notes. I used the 165 since my 308 hated them for some reason and I had them. Most 30-30 dies are really tight because of the need to function through the lever rifles. Neck sizing worked fine in the single shot and it was considerably more accurate.

[axxe55]

so what you are doing is picking a bullet type by BC, that i understand, but what is your reasons behind bullet weight? how do you determine what bullet weight to use and why? i also understand that using the rifle in single shot, you aren't limited in bullet type, are you loading them shallower also when you seat the bullet?

i understand the velocity thing, because some people seem to think velocity is accuracy, but that's not always true, as every rifle is different.

[The_Kid]

Originally Posted by axxe55

how do you determine what bullet weight to use and why?

Price.
I plan on strictly using the Hornady 150gr FMJ, and Speer 130gr FN for use in the 30-30. I'll use the FN bullets for loading in the magazine and the FMJ for special shots.

That said...

I have used and gotten great results using from 110gr FMJs to 180gr SPs. It isn't a matter of "how [I] determine what bullet weight to use," but instead, how I determine what the use is for a specific bullet.

Originally Posted by axxe55

i also understand that using the rifle in single shot, you aren't limited in bullet type, are you loading them shallower also when you seat the bullet?

Since it isn't subject to cycle through the workings, I usually seat them in the cannelure. Some bullets, (like the 168gr A-Max,) I'll seat at the lands.
The only problem with the cartridges with longish COL, is when I might want to eject a cartridge that hasn't been fired. I'll need to open the breach keeping the cartridge along the bore axis, (as to not damage a ballistic tip or whatnot,) then using a knife, (or what have I,) I'll relieve the ejector claw.

[dks7895]

I'm glad this thread has settled down, and everyone is playing nice. What's the story with your scope. Did Bushnell take care of it? Are you giving up on Bushnell and going with a different brand?

[The_Kid]

Originally Posted by dks7895

What's the story with your scope. Did Bushnell take care of it?

Yes, it took a while. They had their service department give it a once over before they gave me a full refund.

Originally Posted by dks7895

Are you giving up on Bushnell and going with a different brand?

I'll probably never buy another Bushnell, I still lost about $60 in shipping costs.
I have a Williams FP on it now and I am starting to get the hang of it finally.
If I do decide to put another scope on it in the future, I might go with a Nikko Stirling. I have a Nikko Stirling Diamond on my Howa 30-06 that has worked great with over 1500 shots; so I'm pretty well trusting them now.