Tools? (response to 1911 lapping sticky)
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:25 PM   #1
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Default Tools? (response to 1911 lapping sticky)

I have never yet taken apart my 1911 frames. I now have 2 top-tier production 1911's (read under $1000) and I want to keep them in tip-top shape. Cane's slide-lapping sticky brings up a couple of questions:

-What tools are needed for a total takedown? I know JMB designed it to be taken down with virtually no tools, but if I'd rather not use the sear spring or whatever, what tools should I have?

-Brakeclean? Is this an alternative to Hoppe's #9 solvent or a different material altogether? Should I use brakekleen as solvent for all my firearms?

-CLP? I thought Mobil 1 was a good oil. Or is the Mobil 1 just for the slide rails and CLP is for all other surfaces. I don't understand what CLP is or how it should be used.

Thanks for any help.

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Old 03-01-2011, 04:34 PM   #2
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I keep a few small "jewelers" screwdrivers near my cleaning supplies and I use them a lot. They're convenient for pushing out the hammer & sear pins and removing the mag catch. They're also real handy for lining up the series 80 link that the sear pin goes through.

I generally just use my regular solvent for cleaning. I had a revolver that was really gunked up and did use brakeclean to dissolve all the old gummed up grease though.

Personally, I use Mobil 1 for about every lubrication task. I'm going to test out some Wilson Ultima II lube if it ever gets here...

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Old 03-01-2011, 04:39 PM   #3
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A decent brass or plastic bushing wrench is valuable. A 1/4" punch for the mainspring pin.

Brake Kleen is a harsh cleaner and degreaser. It will strip all traces of oil out of the metal. I use it only in extreme situation and not for routine cleaning.

CLP is Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant. It is a compromise that does all three "pretty" well. I prefer to use solvent for cleaning and oil for lubricating/protecting. Mobil 1 is a very good oil. 2W20 or 5W30 makes for a very good lubricant. It does not, however, act as the best rust preventative.

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Old 03-01-2011, 04:52 PM   #4
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Chapman (and others) made a durable set of changeable tip HOLLOW GROUND screwdrivers. Use the right one, it does NOT slip out of the screw slot and bugger up the screw head. Think my set is about 25 years old- this is what the new sets look like.

chapman01.jpg

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Old 03-01-2011, 04:55 PM   #5
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Dammit, forgot to mention my Dremel and a selection of grinding stones. It's hell getting old and losing focus...

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Old 03-01-2011, 05:07 PM   #6
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BAD IRISHMAN! BAD ! No Guiness for you!

Step away from the Dremel, and nobody will get hurt!



I will not allow Dremel in same room with a gun unless it is safely protected by having a felt polishing bob installed. No stones. It is much easier to take metal off than to put it back.

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Old 03-01-2011, 05:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c3shooter View Post
BAD IRISHMAN! BAD ! No Guiness for you!

Step away from the Dremel, and nobody will get hurt!
Hence the smiley in the post sir. My Dremel stays locked away as it makes my guns VERY nervous...
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:36 PM   #8
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I have yet to find a better degreaser than shaving FOAM. Barbasal has yet to let me down.

If you are giving everything a bath anyway, shoot the foam on everything going into the tub, scrub it down, let it sit and rinse with HOT water. A good coat of oil and you are good to go.

Works great on everythig from a M249 (or 1911) to washing camo off your face!

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Old 03-01-2011, 08:12 PM   #9
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OK- you may have a Guiness.

And I have taken a bath with shaving cream. Be careful with the menthol variety, tho.....

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Old 03-01-2011, 08:30 PM   #10
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I use clp as a cleaner for powder residue. It does a good job cleaning everything of powder residue soak the gun in clp wipe off. I also use it as a barrel oil run a wet patch down the barrel then a couple of dry put the gun away. After cleaning the barrel with solvent.

+1 to investing in a bushing driver or bushing wrench. Nothing worse than boogered up bushings.

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