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Old 11-07-2010, 01:22 AM   #11
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dont worry springfield will make the gun right. its just likely a small micro bump holding things up when it gets a little warm.

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Old 11-07-2010, 02:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonM View Post
dont worry springfield will make the gun right. its just likely a small micro bump holding things up when it gets a little warm.
While I'm sure you are right, it is too bad they need to be asked to do it right.
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:12 AM   #13
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Default Recoil spring?

I have 2 guy friends who had the same problem with their recently bought Springfield's. The recoil springs on both were holding only at 14 lbs. They went with a Wolf 18 lbs recoil springs and they worked fine after that.

Might just be me but the Springfield 1911 seems kinda clunky in their assembly and function.

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Old 11-07-2010, 06:02 AM   #14
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Default Sandpaper

I'd use the sandpaper, but before check barrel alignment.
Check inside the slide for over worn surfaces, that is a red flag alright. Apply sandpaper if needed.

Semis are so simple machines is really easy to figure out what is going inside, I just take some time to look for bare metal, when I disassemble it.

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Old 11-07-2010, 03:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdeserthills View Post
While I'm sure you are right, it is too bad they need to be asked to do it right.
yeah thats true but every company lets one through once in a while.
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:20 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Drrhein View Post
Yes, I think it's a combination of oil and too tight slide, I forgot to mention that I've already ruled out the mags. My RIA 1911 is quite a bit looser but the metal seems quite a bit softer and I'm concerned about excess wear on that, while the Springfield has very hard steel and I've had great difficulty polishing the feed ramp. I'm reluctant to attempt fooling with the slide rails but I'm sure thats where the problem lies. I suppose Springfield is the next step as suggested.

I did read somewhere that using a polishing compound to lap (ala valve lapping) the rails but I'd really like to hear from more experienced people about that.

It's interesting that JonM likes a rattle or two. My Sig sounds like a bucket of bolts every time you shake it, but it shoots 100% of the time and I don't worry about the slide hanging up one day.
I lapped Fenrir (my Colt XSE/460 Rowland) when I couldn't get the damn thing to cycle.

First question, is the gun stainless? Hard chromed?

Is the receiver and slide of the same material? SS vs carbon steel?

How many rounds do you have down range? (Should have been the first question.)

If you haven't shot the first 500 rounds of 230gr ball ammo, don't even consider doing anything to the gun except cleaning. Polish the feed ramp?? Pretty feed ramps don't always eliminate FTF issues. Break-in sorts issues.

Get it dirty, then clean her so she starts to respect you. When her trust is complete, she will serve you well for a lifetime!

Answer thee questions and I'll give you a complete, step-by-step lesson in slide lap-in.

It's a little different than head valves.

Think the following:





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Old 11-07-2010, 08:13 PM   #17
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Complete Stainless, about 400 rounds shot now. Thanks!

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Old 11-08-2010, 04:36 PM   #18
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I personally wouldn't lap anything or take sandpaper to anything unless you're positive you know exactly what you're doing. While it's easy to take metal off - it's very difficult and costly to put it back. Clean, lube, shoot and repeat. Stainless guns like a bit more lube than carbon steel guns as well...

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Old 11-08-2010, 07:42 PM   #19
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Somewhere I saw a lube that was designed specifically for stainless firearms. Check Brownells.

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Old 11-09-2010, 07:37 PM   #20
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First, Dave has a great point. NEVER undertake a gunsmithing project you know you're incapable of doing....OR....uncomfortable undertaking. You cannot un-ring a bell. Once the metal is gone, there are only two things that will fix your problem, a replacement part, or cash bucks!

With that said, lapping removes very little material. And it will only remove the culpable, tight area. (High points only) This is not a difficult process and if you have a modicum of mechanical skillz you can do this given the proper parts and time. < $25 and some elbow grease. ( Wheeler Engineering Lapping Compound Kit (1 oz each of 220, 320, 600 Grit Compound) - MidwayUSA Now on sale)

If you want to proceed, PM me for more info.

I have found that stainless steel has a higher coefficient of friction than carbon steel. I pulled my gray hair out trying to get the cycle time set on my 460 Rowland conversion. Clark Custom Guns suggested FP-10 and I found it worked well. When I ran out of the sample, I returned to Mobile 1. If you don't want to use engine oil the guys at MPC will be glad to take your money. When I ran out of the sample, I returned to Mobile 1. If you don't want to use engine oil the guys at MPC will be glad to take your money. ($30/qt vs $6/qt)



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Last edited by canebrake; 11-10-2010 at 02:19 AM.
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