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11-08-2010, 12:46 PM
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#1
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Indianapolis,Indiana
Posts: 51
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Springfield 1911 A1 GI
Hey all,
I got a 1911 A1 GI with the intention of doing some work on it myself, I wanted to test it out to guage the actual difference after the trigger job etc.
One thing I noticed was the rounds would catch, it seemed like the slid would lock up before cycling all the way, I took the gun apart (as I should have done before) and noticed it was quite dry. I gave it a good lube job and made sure the slide had minimal friction and "boom" she went with not problems.
Also, the finish on the barrel on these things is about one step up from a dry erase marker, I want to polish up the barrel down to its stainless base. Any hints on the best way to do this so it doesn't look like a hack job?
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11-08-2010, 12:54 PM
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#2
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,152
Liked 16 Times on 7 Posts
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If the gun was bought new, I'd put at least 500 rounds through it before making any mods. Keep it clean and lubed and shoot it a lot - then you can begin to make it what you want it to be. I'm not a huge fan of generic polishing as I see no real need to do so. Start stocking up on good quality magazines as your first investment...
Last edited by NGIB; 11-08-2010 at 12:56 PM.
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11-08-2010, 12:55 PM
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#3
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Indianapolis,Indiana
Posts: 51
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Done, I put 600 through it on Saturday
- But let me qualify that by saying my first intention was to not shoot it all until I had made the changes...
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11-08-2010, 01:27 PM
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#4
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,152
Liked 16 Times on 7 Posts
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I have 1911s ranging from a near stock GI to ones that have all the bells & whistles. My advice to all new 1911 owners is to shoot the gun a lot and really understand the platform before making any wholesale changes. A Springer GI is a nice basic gun but requires a lot of work & cost to turn it into the next level. The ejection port needs to be flared & lowered and the slide needs to be dovetailed for new sights for starters. My GI is staying basically as is but I did fit a better trigger and installed a ring hammer as I detest hammer bite. To provide clearance for the hammer, I just ground a relief into the factory grip safety...
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11-08-2010, 01:37 PM
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#5
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Indianapolis,Indiana
Posts: 51
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Nice, I have dismantled the gun and read plenty of books, I have a good working understanding of the platform, which will make more sense when I get to actually putting these parts on.
I have all the parts on my blog, mostly cosmetic. But I did order some lighter sear springs and some other parts.
I dont really think the sights are a big deal to me... I am a good shot and my pattern at 25 yards was still 70%... I don't see the need for competition sights unless I am shooting in the dark.
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11-08-2010, 01:44 PM
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#6
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 19,865
Liked 1163 Times on 504 Posts
Likes Given: 2940
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Congratulations.
__________________
“If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.” ― Samuel Adams
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11-08-2010, 01:45 PM
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#7
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,152
Liked 16 Times on 7 Posts
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Be exceedingly careful on going to light on the springs or you'll have reliability problems. Not enough tension on the sear can cause hammer follow which is not a good thing. I'm not a real fan of the super light triggers on 1911s as I prefer a 3-4 pound pull. If you're planning to replace the MSH (to get rid of the lock) you'll need to order the plunger, cap, retainer pin, and new mainspring.
BTW, I couldn't see a target at 25 yards so anything over 10-12 yards is moot for me...
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11-08-2010, 01:48 PM
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#8
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Indianapolis,Indiana
Posts: 51
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I haven't read anything that would indicate I need to get rid of the lock... does it cause problems?
I only want to go to around 3, the springer 1911 comes stock around 5 right?
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11-08-2010, 01:51 PM
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#9
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,152
Liked 16 Times on 7 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clgustaveson
I haven't read anything that would indicate I need to get rid of the lock... does it cause problems?
I only want to go to around 3, the springer 1911 comes stock around 5 right?
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No the lock has caused no problems that I know of, I just like all of my 1911s to use standard parts & springs rather than the proprietary stuff. Trigger pull on GIs can vary a lot as they are the base model gun...
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11-08-2010, 01:58 PM
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#10
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Indianapolis,Indiana
Posts: 51
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Yeah, mine seems decently heavy but its not bad, I just want it a it lighter probably around 4 lbs...
I know the sear springs are very delicate flowers, I am a very cautious person so I don't plan being aggresive with it.
I have a safe, so I may change the MSH later, but for now it doesn't seem like I need to... Like I said, the changes are mostly cosmetic with minor function alterations, I just don't feel like a carry gun needs adjustable sights, railing, or even a tighter bushing... I am not concerned about scoring points on an assailant! haha
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