Slide stop trouble


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Old 05-03-2013, 01:14 AM   #1
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I've had my rock island full size for over a year and put somewhere approaching 1000 rounds through it.

I just put in a shock buffer and new trigger but I feel like that shouldn't have anything to do with what started happening...

When I lock the slide back the slide stop is up in the groove... But here is where the trouble starts:

When I try to rack the slide back to put it forward the slide stop doesn't go all the way down.. It goes most of the way down and the slide stays back locked up by just the very edge of the stop... Is my slide stop spring/plunger thing just getting wore out from my obsessive racking or what? -.- I took it out and put it back a few times hopping it would just go away but it won't please help lol



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Old 05-03-2013, 01:19 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by thewildwonder View Post
I've had my rock island full size for over a year and put somewhere approaching 1000 rounds through it.

I just put in a shock buffer and new trigger but I feel like that shouldn't have anything to do with what started happening...

When I lock the slide back the slide stop is up in the groove... But here is where the trouble starts:

When I try to rack the slide back to put it forward the slide stop doesn't go all the way down.. It goes most of the way down and the slide stays back locked up by just the very edge of the stop... Is my slide stop spring/plunger thing just getting wore out from my obsessive racking or what? -.- I took it out and put it back a few times hopping it would just go away but it won't please help lol
possible the shock buffer is coming apart and a small peice of it is causing the problem. tear it down and do a complete cleaning and get rid of the shock buffer. for the most part they will cause more problems than they cure. if you are running factory ammo, they aren't needed. if you are running hotter ammo, then step up to little higher powerd recoil spring.


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Old 05-03-2013, 01:22 AM   #3
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Dang you were right I took out the shock buffer and it works fine... You think if I just sand the buffer down a little thinner I could still use it and have it work? Thanks for the help, axeman!

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Old 05-03-2013, 01:27 AM   #4
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Dang you were right I took out the shock buffer and it works fine... You think if I just sand the buffer down a little thinner I could still use it and have it work? Thanks for the help, axeman!
the 1911 doesn't need one. i quit using them many, many years ago. the theory is they prevent battering of the frame when using hotter ammo. best solution if using hotter ammo is to go up in the weight of the recoil spring. if you are shooting nothing but factory ammo or reloaded ammo close to factory specs, there is no need for the shock buffer IMO.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:32 AM   #5
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Clip a coil off of your recoil spring. With the shock buff in there you are getting spring stack.

Personal opinion on shock buffs is the same as Axxe55's----toss it. If you are hitting the frame,
stronger recoil spring. Not locking back on the last round? Weaker recoil spring. If you are
bangin' on the shock buff, sooner or later it will cut/break and cause problems.

I've got about 20,000 rds on a Springfield loaded right now, shooting USPSA Single Stack.
Load is Solo 1000 and 230 gr lead, at a 172 Power Factor. Recoil spring is 14 lbs.

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Old 05-03-2013, 01:36 AM   #6
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Clip a coil off of your recoil spring. With the shock buff in there you are getting spring stack.

Personal opinion on shock buffs is the same as Axxe55's----toss it. If you are hitting the frame,
stronger recoil spring. Not locking back on the last round? Weaker recoil spring. If you are
bangin' on the shock buff, sooner or later it will cut/break and cause problems.

I've got about 20,000 rds on a Springfield loaded right now, shooting USPSA Single Stack.
Load is Solo 1000 and 230 gr lead, at a 172 Power Factor. Recoil spring is 14 lbs.
nice thing on the 1911's, is it's easy to tailor the recoil spring to the load you want to shoot. years ago i shot a lot of hotter ammo, with the tought faster is more accurate. not always true. even my reloads are pretty close to factory ammo, so i tend to stick with stock weight recoil springs these days.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:59 AM   #7
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Well thanks for the help guys you rock ill throw the shock buffs in my parts drawer and forget about them haha... Just sucks I was all stoked on them... But hey my gun is awesome is whatever: doesn't need a little piece if plastic

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Old 05-03-2013, 07:21 AM   #8
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I don't use shock buffers.
Clipping spring s is not a recommendation I would do either.

There are enough spring weights available. What needs to be done is check how far the empty casings go to your right rear.

If the casings land at your feet, then that is too much spring weight. If the casings go to the next county, then you have too little spring weight. If the casings get about ten feet from you, then you're okay.

This is provided that your extractor is properly tuned.

This is from a spring manufacturer: http://www.ismi-gunsprings.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&It emid=21

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Old 05-03-2013, 07:23 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by danf_fl View Post
I don't use shock buffers.
Clipping spring s is not a recommendation I would do either.
Just to clarify---I was not suggestion clipping the spring to adjust
the spring strength. Agreed there are plenty of spring strengths
out there!

The clipping would be to eliminate "spring stack" when using the shock buff.
Because of the added thickness of the buff, the recoil spring goes solid--
all coils tight against each other---before the slide can come far enough
to the rear to allow the slide stop to engage/disengage. Clipping a coil
allows the slide to come the thickness of the spring wire further back.

Pretty sure we all agree---toss the plastic, run a un-modified recoil
spring of the correct strength, and shoot.


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