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Old 09-13-2013, 07:46 PM   #11
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Check out this link:
http://durakotetech.com/

Or the alternative:
http://duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/

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Old 09-14-2013, 06:33 AM   #12
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fa35, remember that sweat migrates to beneath the grips too. If you aren't removing the grips when you clean, and oiling beneath, you may get an unpleasant rusty surprise should you remove the grips one day. I suspect that if your gun is carried, blue thinning and rust spots developing, the gun is likely not a collectors item. In that case,were it mine, I would have it refinished in whatever finish I chose. Rebluing looks nice when properly done, but you'd have the same issues in short order. That is one of the reasons I prefer stainless in any gun I'm going to be carrying. I'm not a big fan of the painted type finishes, by whatever name. But, for sure, as long as the surface finish remains intact, your gun can't rust. I much prefer something like hard chrome or Robar's Np3...ymmv

BTW, one humid, sweaty day during a long hot Phoenix summer, I was carrying a gun with a blued slide concealed against my sweaty self. It rusted the side next to me in that one day. I had foolishly used some kind of silicone super duper anti-rust cloth on the gun, rather than the WD-40 I'd been using to wipe down the exterior prior. WD-40 is certainly not a good lubricant for moving parts, but I never had a blued gun show any sign of rust when using it to wipe down the exterior.

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Old 09-14-2013, 10:48 AM   #13
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Sweat is a form of H2O.

WD-40 is the name of a Water Displacement formula - 40th attempt.

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Old 09-14-2013, 04:19 PM   #14
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I remove the grips and clean under there. I will look into different finishes and maybe have it redone at some point.

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Old 09-14-2013, 06:13 PM   #15
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VCI products also work very well, ive never used CLP. I have a 70 series Colt Combat Commander that has quite abit of wear, and will surface rust overnight from even normal use without some protection. A good wipe down with VCI keeps the rust away for a couple weeks if its in use, months if its just sittin in the safe. One of these days, Im hoping to send it to Colt and have them re-blue it correctly. Granted, its not cheap, but Im sure itd be worth it.

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Old 09-14-2013, 08:36 PM   #16
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Whats vci?? Sounds like it stay on metal like clp.

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Old 09-15-2013, 02:37 AM   #17
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Not sure just what it is. Dick's Sporting Goods carries it, and I think Midway does too. Perty good stuff is all I know.

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Old 09-15-2013, 02:50 AM   #18
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Parkerizing is kinda like blueing in one way-it's an actual chemical reaction with the metal. It IS basically the metal itself in a different molecular makeup. I like the idea of this, because, as someone else mentioned, I don't care for painted on type finishes. Nothing wrong with them, and they've proven to be more durable than blue or parkerizing over and over... I just don't like the idea.

Hey, one great thing about cerakote, duracoat, durakote, whatever... Just about any color you could want. Even do a duo tone if you want.

Now, I stripped the parkerizing from my springfield milspec and cold blued it. I had a problem at first with very light rust popping up and having to be scrubbed off.

I use heavy oil. I use a spray on lube called "Pen-a-lube", or 90 weight gear oil during cleaning, and a spray on "penetrating red grease" on reassembly. Haven't had the rust come back since. These two sprays are formulated to be a penetrating lubricant, with the "pen-a-lube" supposedly similar to C3's beloved Kroil.

I have recently been looking into hard chrome. Don't know if I want to go that route. It's an expensive process if you go with a reputable smith (online I found rates of around $275 for the entire gun). But, upon examining the benefits, I really love the idea. And I think it looks sexy as hell too.

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Old 09-15-2013, 03:29 AM   #19
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Let it show it's wear. Gives it personality.

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Old 09-15-2013, 07:21 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trip286 View Post
Parkerizing is kinda like blueing in one way-it's an actual chemical reaction with the metal. It IS basically the metal itself in a different molecular makeup. I like the idea of this, because, as someone else mentioned, I don't care for painted on type finishes. Nothing wrong with them, and they've proven to be more durable than blue or parkerizing over and over... I just don't like the idea.

Hey, one great thing about cerakote, duracoat, durakote, whatever... Just about any color you could want. Even do a duo tone if you want.

Now, I stripped the parkerizing from my springfield milspec and cold blued it. I had a problem at first with very light rust popping up and having to be scrubbed off.

I use heavy oil. I use a spray on lube called "Pen-a-lube", or 90 weight gear oil during cleaning, and a spray on "penetrating red grease" on reassembly. Haven't had the rust come back since. These two sprays are formulated to be a penetrating lubricant, with the "pen-a-lube" supposedly similar to C3's beloved Kroil.

I have recently been looking into hard chrome. Don't know if I want to go that route. It's an expensive process if you go with a reputable smith (online I found rates of around $275 for the entire gun). But, upon examining the benefits, I really love the idea. And I think it looks sexy as hell too.
i think you mentioned on another thread about buying another 1911. the MetroArms American Classic 1911's are offered in a hard chrome version. they are not that expensive either. very well made pistols and i am on my second one now.

personally, to re-blue is a personal decision. i like the look of worn pistols as much as finely blued ones. the worn look show use and character.

as Trip mentioned, parkerizing is another good alternative to bluing. IIRC, parkerizing is a little more resistant to rust than blueing.
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