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RIA vs. Cimarron


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Old 09-17-2012, 05:36 PM   #11
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As ryguy00 says, it's the copper undercoat that gives way. The amonia in the cleaners is supposedly the offending ingredient. Cleaners without amonia seem to be okay, but I question if those cleaners do a proper job in the barrel. Hard Chrome would be better than nickle & many say it is tougher than stainless.


P.S. As to RIA or Cimarron, I didn't have a good experience with my RIA, but it was likely the exception. Not familiar with the Cimarrron because I'm only aware of revolvers in that brand. Where are they made?

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Old 09-17-2012, 08:05 PM   #12
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Would you please post one of your nickle guns that a cleaner has flaked the finish? I have nickle plated Remington Army Mdls. issued to NDN scouts these were nickle . These 1870 era handguns are worn but not flaked. I have never heard of the cleaning issue?
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:17 PM   #13
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My thought on nickel is that, as any other coating process, dimensions are changed.

While some nickel processes may be harder than others, slide to frame fit could abrade the finish faster than stainless or blued steel.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gollygee
As ryguy00 says, it's the copper undercoat that gives way. The amonia in the cleaners is supposedly the offending ingredient. Cleaners without amonia seem to be okay, but I question if those cleaners do a proper job in the barrel. Hard Chrome would be better than nickle & many say it is tougher than stainless.

P.S. As to RIA or Cimarron, I didn't have a good experience with my RIA, but it was likely the exception. Not familiar with the Cimarrron because I'm only aware of revolvers in that brand. Where are they made?
It's all a plating process copper is base plated then nickle plate over that. Chrome is plated over nickle as it is actually translucent.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitestalker
Would you please post one of your nickle guns that a cleaner has flaked the finish? I have nickle plated Remington Army Mdls. issued to NDN scouts these were nickle . These 1870 era handguns are worn but not flaked. I have never heard of the cleaning issue?
Couldn't tell you what caused the flaking on my Colt as I bought it already in that condition. But cause aside, I can assure you that it can and does happen.

I had plans to have the gun refinished, but sold it for a quick profit several years ago. If I still had it, I'd happily snap a few pictures for reference.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:51 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by krzkevin View Post
It's all a plating process copper is base plated then nickle plate over that. Chrome is plated over nickle as it is actually translucent.
Interesting. I didn't know the chrome was over nickle. I guess that means that there is copper present even with a hard chrome finish.

In the pump business, manufacturers offered Hard Chrome construction in abrasive applications & stainless, allow 20 or titanium for various corrosive duties. Some offered a "electroless" nickle coat as a cheaper alternative to stainless, but I don't know if that is the same process used in firearms. I do know that any flaw, crack, scratch or wear that occured would allow the pumpage get to the steel & it would eat the steel out from under the coating.
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:09 PM   #17
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Has Zayne (OP) figured out what he wants to do?
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:17 PM   #18
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The only difference between the RIA 1911 and the Cimarron 1911 is the Cimarron is a 1911 and the RIA is an A1 model. Personally I'd rather have the pre a1. To me its just more of a quality question.
the difference bwtween an A1 and a non A1 1911 is design changes that were made in 1924, in which it be came the 1911A1. some of these changes were 1) shorter trigger, 2) arched MSH, 3) cutouts in the frame behind the trigger, 4) longer grip safety, 5) wider front sight, 6) shorter hammer and 7) a simpified grip checkering.

the difference between an A1 an a non A1 have nothing to do with quality, but with a persons personal preference in design details. parts were still interchangeable between the two versions.
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitestalker
Would you please post one of your nickle guns that a cleaner has flaked the finish? I have nickle plated Remington Army Mdls. issued to NDN scouts these were nickle . These 1870 era handguns are worn but not flaked. I have never heard of the cleaning issue?
Cant help you there. When i want a silver look, i go with stainless. I never have and never will buy a nickle plated firearm. I use very potent copper solvents on my firearm barrels and it gets everywhere. Splashes from the brush bristles, on my fingers from handling the cleaning rods, etc. It is simple chemistry that would lead to disaster. Ymmv. If you only use good ol hoppes #9, (a powder solvent) and you've never used butches bore shine or sweets solvent, you will probably never have a problem with nickle plating. That stuff will actually melt the bronze brushes if not cleaned off with brake cleaner immediately after use. But you will never have a group ruined from copper fouling!

Its honestly more for use in rifles and not as necessary for most pistols to use a solvent so strong to remove copper fouling. But i know it works extremely well, i already have it on hand, and what the hell, ill use it on my pistols too.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axxe55

the difference bwtween an A1 and a non A1 1911 is design changes that were made in 1924, in which it be came the 1911A1. some of these changes were 1) shorter trigger, 2) arched MSH, 3) cutouts in the frame behind the trigger, 4) longer grip safety, 5) wider front sight, 6) shorter hammer and 7) a simpified grip checkering.

the difference between an A1 an a non A1 have nothing to do with quality, but with a persons personal preference in design details. parts were still interchangeable between the two versions.
Yes I'm aware. Thank you.
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