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new springfield 1911 loaded, 100 rounds to FTF, why? (and more)


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Old 02-28-2011, 01:38 AM   #21
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Your Springer is a Stainless Steel model, right?

SS DOES NOT like grease! Any grease.

A SS 1911 has a higher coefficient of friction than a carbon steel 1911. And a carbon steel 1911 hates grease!

You can use what you want on other parts but when it comes to the slide/receiver interface, use Mobil 1. The only decision you will need to make is does the Springer like it light or wet.

Wiping the slide down will NOT remove all the lube (read: grease) and a good cleaning is required to strip it completely of grease.

Take a look at post 7 & 8 of the thread below for proper cleaning from my slide lapping thread. You do not need to lap your gun yet.

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f57/1911-slide-lapping-101-a-34370/#post389740

Clean it well, use Mobil 1 and go shoot the snot out of it.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canebrake View Post
Your Springer is a Stainless Steel model, right?

SS DOES NOT like grease! Any grease.

A SS 1911 has a higher coefficient of friction than a carbon steel 1911. And a carbon steel 1911 hates grease!

You can use what you want on other parts but when it comes to the slide/receiver interface, use Mobil 1. The only decision you will need to make is does the Springer like it light or wet.

Wiping the slide down will NOT remove all the lube (read: grease) and a good cleaning is required to strip it completely of grease.

Take a look at post 7 & 8 of the thread below for proper cleaning from my slide lapping thread. You do not need to lap your gun yet.

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f57/1911-slide-lapping-101-a-34370/#post389740

Clean it well, use Mobil 1 and go shoot the snot out of it.
thanks for the info Canebrake. yeah my loaded is SS. oops, i didn't know it didn't like grease .

good thing i didn't add too much but it still spread on the groves of the slide and frame.

i used weapon shield grease. i wonder if that has a 'different formula'?

i was just looking at the video posted by Fcross by the Armory channel. they use grease on his slide area. is this one of these things that different people say or use? (such as dry firing is bad, different types of oil to preserve guns, etc) i'm not keen on stainless steel properties and it's weaknesses.


I was looking at your post on lapping, to clean it properly, it's basically putting the slide and frame in soap water and scrubbing it off right?

i haven't removed a firing pin yet so i need to look up on how to do that. is that necessary? also, for the frame, can i just dip in the frame upside down and wait a while while holding it to rinse the groves for the slide? I don't know how to remove the ILS system on the Loaded. i dont think it'll be too good to drop the frame in the soapy water.

edit: instead of the mobil 1, is militec 1 good enough on the slides? i also used that to coat the gun after cleaning.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:48 AM   #23
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There's no reason to make this overly complicated. Get an old toothbrush and a bottle of Hoppes # 9 and give it a good scrubbing. Wipe the frame & slide down good and then apply a light coat of Mobil 1 on the rails of the frame & slide. I use a q-tip to do it myself but watch for any fibers that may come off. Q-tips are also handy for cleaning the frame & slide grooves.

Again, I highly recommend you find a local expert that can spend an hour with you to go over the basics of shooting and caring for a 1911. You've been given a lot of solid advice so the rest is up to you...

Last edited by NGIB; 02-28-2011 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:51 AM   #24
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Thing that gets my attention is that he used S&B ammo. That is pretty hot compared to your normal garden variety range fodder. This makes me want to know if the feed ramp is a little funky and where the rounds ejected properly. Though I will agree that grease does not make for a great lube on slides and can be a contributing issue. I would think it would have to be pretty funky with the hotter ammo to not cycle correctly. S&B's 9mm's are pretty load friendly being they have a semi-spherical nose. But they are not like the more pointy Winchester rounds that are a good bit more thin at the tip. In fact most all the main 9mm ammo FMJ rounds are more conical than the S&B round. I'm told that the primers are supposed to be a little more hard than some U.S. makers but from what I've seen using it I can't say the strikes look any less prominent than with anything else. Maybe a second choice in ammo at least to get the thing a little more broke in might be helpful.

Guns are like everything else. You have to take out all the things that are not the problem until you reach the one or more things that are creating it. You have recorded some great advice as to cleaning and lubing habits. I'd follow that advice being it will help you in the long run.

You said the recoil spring was in correctly. I'm wondering if it might be of the wrong size (poundage wise) It should only be around 12-14# Using hotter ammo consistently you might want to go up a pound or so. A little less with lighter loads.
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:42 PM   #25
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I'm not an expert by any means, but I've been using grease on the rails of my 1911 and it has worked great. It seems to smooth the cycle out more than just oil. So this has me curious, why is using grease a bad idea?

I'm not questioning you guys, just curious.

-Fred
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:21 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGIB View Post
There's no reason to make this overly complicated. Get an old toothbrush and a bottle of Hoppes # 9 and give it a good scrubbing. Wipe the frame & slide down good and then apply a light coat of Mobil 1 on the rails of the frame & slide. I use a q-tip to do it myself but watch for any fibers that may come off. Q-tips are also handy for cleaning the frame & slide grooves.

Again, I highly recommend you find a local expert that can spend an hour with you to go over the basics of shooting and caring for a 1911. You've been given a lot of solid advice so the rest is up to you...
i am sounding redundant being new to this so i just want to make sure i get things done the right way.

i'll be cleaning her up and double checking everything.

i'm also looking to finding expert help and getting a one on one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrumJunkie View Post
Thing that gets my attention is that he used S&B ammo. That is pretty hot compared to your normal garden variety range fodder. This makes me want to know if the feed ramp is a little funky and where the rounds ejected properly. Though I will agree that grease does not make for a great lube on slides and can be a contributing issue. I would think it would have to be pretty funky with the hotter ammo to not cycle correctly. S&B's 9mm's are pretty load friendly being they have a semi-spherical nose. But they are not like the more pointy Winchester rounds that are a good bit more thin at the tip. In fact most all the main 9mm ammo FMJ rounds are more conical than the S&B round. I'm told that the primers are supposed to be a little more hard than some U.S. makers but from what I've seen using it I can't say the strikes look any less prominent than with anything else. Maybe a second choice in ammo at least to get the thing a little more broke in might be helpful.

Guns are like everything else. You have to take out all the things that are not the problem until you reach the one or more things that are creating it. You have recorded some great advice as to cleaning and lubing habits. I'd follow that advice being it will help you in the long run.

You said the recoil spring was in correctly. I'm wondering if it might be of the wrong size (poundage wise) It should only be around 12-14# Using hotter ammo consistently you might want to go up a pound or so. A little less with lighter loads.
will hi-res pics of my feed ramp help in noticing something funky?

as far as the spring goes, i need to see what the specs say about the Loaded comes with.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:18 PM   #27
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Before we start a Hatfield/McCoy feud, let me tell you what my dislike of grease comes from. Think of grease as lapping compound without the grit. Throw in some powder residue, sand, dirt and general range crap and presto, you have your lapping compound.

Oil will tend to "wash" these contaminates out of the friction areas. Grease tends to attract and hold these contaminates.

When I was tuning Fenrir (my 460 Rowland Colt SS XSE) I went with the latest "Super Hi Tec Synthetic Wonder Grease" figuring I may as well go with the latest technology. The grease slowed my cycle times to the point of FTF. After talking with Clark, and seeing this was my first SS 1911, I found out about the inherent friction characteristics of SS slides on SS receivers.

I was given the same advice, to completely strip the grease and go with oil. I did and the cycle time improved. Then I went on to the lapping procedure and the improvement was so drastic I needed to reduce the recoil spring pressure to slow it down!

I have been using Mobil 1 for years and with this foray into "Super Grease" I'm glad to say I'm back with Mobil 1 to stay!

Do not detail strip your 1911 until you are comfortable with that level of disassembly. Until then, just scrub the slide rails with CLP, Brakleen or soap & water. Just remember to lube as soon after you clean your gun as possible. Rust never sleeps. Keep this in mind, never scrub your entire gun with soap or Brakleen unless it is completely stripped. Like this:

Next step, completely strip your 1911, everything except;
  1. Sights
  2. Plunger tube (remove the spring & plungers)
  3. Grip bushings
  4. Ejector

While you have it in this most revealing condition, inspect everything.

new springfield 1911 loaded, 100 rounds to FTF, why? (and more) - 1911 Forum

Do what you want, but I donít think thatís why you came here.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:38 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canebrake View Post
Before we start a Hatfield/McCoy feud, let me tell you what my dislike of grease comes from. Think of grease as lapping compound without the grit. Throw in some powder residue, sand, dirt and general range crap and presto, you have your lapping compound.

Oil will tend to "wash" these contaminates out of the friction areas. Grease tends to attract and hold these contaminates.

Do what you want, but I donít think thatís why you came here.
Indeed, it isn't why I'm here. And that's a very good point about the grease holding all the residue grit etc., I never thought of what. While my 1911 isn't stainless, I'll still probably ditch the grease. I've got some homework I've gotta do today, but tomorrow afternoon I'll probably scrub it down and just use the oil.

Thanks again for the info.

-Fred
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:19 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canebrake View Post
Before we start a Hatfield/McCoy feud, let me tell you what my dislike of grease comes from. Think of grease as lapping compound without the grit. Throw in some powder residue, sand, dirt and general range crap and presto, you have your lapping compound.

Oil will tend to "wash" these contaminates out of the friction areas. Grease tends to attract and hold these contaminates.

When I was tuning Fenrir (my 460 Rowland Colt SS XSE) I went with the latest "Super Hi Tec Synthetic Wonder Grease" figuring I may as well go with the latest technology. The grease slowed my cycle times to the point of FTF. After talking with Clark, and seeing this was my first SS 1911, I found out about the inherent friction characteristics of SS slides on SS receivers.

I was given the same advice, to completely strip the grease and go with oil. I did and the cycle time improved. Then I went on to the lapping procedure and the improvement was so drastic I needed to reduce the recoil spring pressure to slow it down!

I have been using Mobil 1 for years and with this foray into "Super Grease" I'm glad to say I'm back with Mobil 1 to stay!

Do not detail strip your 1911 until you are comfortable with that level of disassembly. Until then, just scrub the slide rails with CLP, Brakleen or soap & water. Just remember to lube as soon after you clean your gun as possible. Rust never sleeps. Keep this in mind, never scrub your entire gun with soap or Brakleen unless it is completely stripped. Like this:

Next step, completely strip your 1911, everything except;
  1. Sights
  2. Plunger tube (remove the spring & plungers)
  3. Grip bushings
  4. Ejector

While you have it in this most revealing condition, inspect everything.

new springfield 1911 loaded, 100 rounds to FTF, why? (and more) - 1911 Forum

Do what you want, but I donít think thatís why you came here.
thanks for the tips and feedback.
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:02 PM   #30
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Marshall, here's an excellent animation that illustrates how the parts of a 1911 are assembled. Take a look, I think you'll find it helpful for your overall understanding of the pistol.

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