New Alumagrips coming loose!!! - Page 2
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:31 PM   #11
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lon, when I bought the grips, I bought the bushings and screws from the same vendor. They're the right ones. I wish they were Torx, though. I'm afraid to strip out the allen wrench ones.

WOC, blue loctite makes a screw stay, but not permanently. I've never used the red stuff, but I'm betting that it is way more perm than the blue. The blue just keeps screws so they don't back out during recoil and use.

I will try the o-rings first, keep 'em on until the next range trip, then I'll give a report back on this thread. I still have me regular-length screws (which are torx) so I could try that, too, especially with the o-rings in there.
Chris, are the screws backing out or is it the bushings?

Bushings need to be staked or blue loctite in place.

Grip screws should never be tightened to the point of stripping either the threads or the drive. A very little blue loctite (use less volume than what you use on the bushings) or my choice, rubber washers (not o-rings) may be used if the recoil backs out the screws with no treatment.

DO NOT use standard length grip screws with thin/slim grips and bushings! The extra length will extend into the mag void and interfere with mag removal/insertion.
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:58 AM   #12
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Chris, are the screws backing out or is it the bushings?

Bushings need to be staked or blue loctite in place.

When I say loose, I mean the grips are able to slide in any direction along the plane of the frame. That says to me the screw is loose, not the bushing. If the bushing was loose, the grip would be loose on the Z axis instead of the x and y axes. I think I got that correct.

It is really good advice to loctite (more) the bushings as well as loctite (less) the screws. But I will start with the rubber washers first. Do those just increase friction on the inner face of the screw, keeping them tight to the grip?
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Old 09-24-2011, 03:48 AM   #13
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It is really good advice to loctite (more) the bushings as well as loctite (less) the screws. But I will start with the rubber washers first. Do those just increase friction on the inner face of the screw, keeping them tight to the grip?
They work as shock absorbers. The idea is to remove the metal to metal connection.

When you have wood or plastic grips they tend to absorb the shock frequency. When you replaced them with the Alumagrips the frequency needs to dissipate and acts on the weakest point, the screws. The rubber washers eliminate the metal to metal connection.

If you loctite the screws without the washers you still have the metal to metal connection. It will work but eventually the shock will break the anaerobic bond and you'll be back to loose grips.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:22 PM   #14
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DO NOT use standard length grip screws with thin/slim grips and bushings! The extra length will extend into the mag void and interfere with mag removal/insertion.
I've found that to usually be the case....but not always.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:05 PM   #15
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They work as shock absorbers. The idea is to remove the metal to metal connection.

When you have wood or plastic grips they tend to absorb the shock frequency. When you replaced them with the Alumagrips the frequency needs to dissipate and acts on the weakest point, the screws. The rubber washers eliminate the metal to metal connection.

If you loctite the screws without the washers you still have the metal to metal connection. It will work but eventually the shock will break the anaerobic bond and you'll be back to loose grips.
Thanks for the info canebrake
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:13 AM   #16
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For guns, stay away from blue Loctite on small screws. Blue is fine for things you want semi-permanent such as grip screw bushings. However, for small screws it can provide too much adhesion. I know all about "all I do is touch the screw head with a soldering iron," "all I do is use a small propane torch..." etc. It's the wrong product for machine screws - despite the many methods of releasining it.

Purple Loctite is specifically made for small screws and is what you want for small machine screws. Buy a small bottle of both blue and purple for different uses. A median between the two is green, that is made for screws that are seated. It is extremely thin, will creep around the screw and provides about 1/2 the adhesion as blue - which is PLENTY to keep a small machine screw in place.

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Old 10-26-2012, 04:44 PM   #17
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I would not recommend going by color when determining the grade of Loctite. The number is is the grade designation. If you put the same green Loctite (not sure of the number, but it did say permanent on the bottle) on your grips that we use to use in our factory the only way you would be able to remove them would be to machine the screw out and retread the hole. That is the reason it was banned in our facility. I can't tell you how many times I've had to remove screws with green Loctite on them. It doesn't matter what the size is. Even an acetylene torch only worked occasionally. I would check the chart on their website and see what the recommend for your specific use. Especially on an expensive firearm.

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Old 10-27-2012, 06:07 AM   #18
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The other possibility, which is the course I took a YEAR ago , is to sell the pistol because I no longer wanted a Kimber.

Great Loctite info, though!

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Old 10-27-2012, 07:49 PM   #19
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Loctite 222/Purple sold by Alumagrip.

Also Alumagrips now come with rubber o-ring/washers installed

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Old 10-31-2012, 05:14 PM   #20
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you might consider that the two different steel material will expand and contract at different temperature, and after tightening the grip when the pistol is cold, they might become loose when the pistol heats up, that might be why the grips move around, try heating the pistol with a blow dryer and tighten the grips down.

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