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MIM Parts on Sig 1911


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Old 10-06-2011, 12:27 PM   #11
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Dan any idea on how many rounds before switching out the extractor? My biggest MIM concern would be the ambi safety, solely since its such a crucial part, I want it to be of the highest quality available.
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Old 10-06-2011, 04:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by g17frantz View Post
It seems to me you're saying my sig isn't a very good starting pistol......it is there top of the line 1911. Not starting BLEEP with you just saying. I did my research and for the $ I wanted to spend the SIG offered the features I wanted ie: front strap checkering, match grade trigger, barrel, sear and hammer set, night sights, custom slide, two tone color and ambi safety. I spent $1000 after taxes on it and have shot now 700+ rounds since I bought it 3 weeks ago and not one single problem except the one round of hornady TAP 200 grn HP which I found out i needed to shooting a 230 grn round. I'm pretty accurate from 15 yards and and do OK from 25. The thing shoots some pretty tight groups! I am very happy with my choice and I think Sig has made a fine production 1911, I just can't leave anything alone is what my problem is. I'm in no means trying to "pimp" my 1911 out. It originally had wood grips and I've decided to switch to alumagrips, changed the slide stop from silver to black and then want to switch my ambi safety to black as well.
I appologize if you took my post to mean the Sig would not be a good starting pistol. In fact, I would think just the opposite as the Sig has a very good rep. No, the point of my post was to not jump into a custom pistol too quickly, but to buy one with good quality major parts (frame, slide, etc). Then put some rounds down range, getting used to it & making decisions on what upgrades/improvements you want. I believe the Sig would certainly fall in that catagory. As he said, when you have a custom pistol done, you tell the gunsmith what you want. If you select an option, then later decide you don't need/want it, you've spent a lot of money for nothing.
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Old 10-06-2011, 04:15 PM   #13
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I have a couple extractors that have outlasted the normal lifetime of other handguns. I just take care to load from the magazines after they were tuned.

If you are concerned about the thumb safety, then by all means, get a new one. Nobody has said "Don't replace", just "You may not have to replace"
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gollygee

I appologize if you took my post to mean the Sig would not be a good starting pistol. In fact, I would think just the opposite as the Sig has a very good rep. No, the point of my post was to not jump into a custom pistol too quickly, but to buy one with good quality major parts (frame, slide, etc). Then put some rounds down range, getting used to it & making decisions on what upgrades/improvements you want. I believe the Sig would certainly fall in that catagory. As he said, when you have a custom pistol done, you tell the gunsmith what you want. If you select an option, then later decide you don't need/want it, you've spent a lot of money for nothing.
Its all good brother. I'm not ready for a semi custom yet, its only been about a month since I bought the sig. That's pretty far into the future before that happens. I plan on buying a 9mm 1911 next year and then go from there. If I'm dropping major cheese, ill do my homework. The sig 1911 was the start to what I think will be a meaningful, yet obsessive 1911 fetish.
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danf_fl
I have a couple extractors that have outlasted the normal lifetime of other handguns. I just take care to load from the magazines after they were tuned.

If you are concerned about the thumb safety, then by all means, get a new one. Nobody has said "Don't replace", just "You may not have to replace"
Thanks Dan
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:54 PM   #16
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Hey guys, I've been struggling trying to find this information out, I have looked everywhere and even emailed SIG. Their response was not really informative at all and was worded (not quoting here) "we're not really going to tell you what parts are MIM however, we can assure you that every part is of the highest quality". OK so.....what the heck does that mean?!! I know when they first started producing 1911's there were absolutely no MIM parts. Now I've heard different. The only thing I've read in other forums were maybe the slide stop and ambi safety, quite possibly the grip safety. Does anyone know or know how to find out?
Inspect the part under a mgnifying glass. If it is MIM, it has to have at least two surface holes: one where the mix is injected into the mold and one where air escapes.

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Old 10-06-2011, 05:57 PM   #17
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I know that there were many & various reported problems and issues with the MIM process when it was new. However, MIM produced parts today are reportedly very high quality.
They are the quality that results from however good the subcontractor's quality control is. Some are good, some are junk. This trigger lever came out of a brand new $1300 SW model 627. The MIM process is a terrible choice for long, thin pieces.
triglever.jpg  

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Old 10-06-2011, 06:02 PM   #18
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if a block of steel is turned to molten metal and injected into a mold that is MIM. ruger 1911s are 100% mim as they are investment casted which is a form of metal injecion molding.
Not correct. MIM uses metal powder mixed with glue to inject into the mold, then the part is sintered at high temp to fuse the particles into a solid piece. Molten metal poured into a mold is "casting", not MIM.

http://www.pim-international.com/aboutpim/binders



MIM is prey to two primary defect modes: an air void (bubble) in the part where the mix did not fill the mold, or defects resulting from not having the metal powder be a consistent grain size throughout. The problem with MIM is that internal defects do not show and are not discovered until it fails. With a tool steel part, it would typically fail during the machining process if it has a weakness or defect. MIM parts are not subject to machining, the just get molded and baked. The weak ones are not detected until they fail in service.

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Old 10-07-2011, 11:15 PM   #19
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If a part does break it easy to tell if its MIM, the broken area will have a grainy metallic consistancy unlike a smooth area that a machined part will have if a break occurs
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Old 10-08-2011, 05:19 AM   #20
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Default I agree completely

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Originally Posted by danf_fl View Post
MIM has improved.

If you do not need to replace a part, then leave it alone. Change the springs, check the disconnector and ejector as time goes on.

Shoot the heck out of it.
Much a do about nothing in my opinion.

Have read a lot on different forums over peoples objection and opinions.

I have seen nothing but anecdotes and old wives tales from those that object and not one shread of scientific proof that these parts are substandard.

I have read a response from a gun maker (can't remember which) basically reviewing their testing peocedures to insure that their life time warrantee's would not come back to haunt them concerning these parts.

Seems the sound business decisions are also the well thought out and tested ones at that.

Don't be frightened, shoot with impunity and only replace what actually breaks.

My $.02.
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