MIM Parts on Sig 1911
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:00 PM   #1
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Default MIM Parts on Sig 1911

Hey guys, I've been struggling trying to find this information out, I have looked everywhere and even emailed SIG. Their response was not really informative at all and was worded (not quoting here) "we're not really going to tell you what parts are MIM however, we can assure you that every part is of the highest quality". OK so.....what the heck does that mean?!! I know when they first started producing 1911's there were absolutely no MIM parts. Now I've heard different. The only thing I've read in other forums were maybe the slide stop and ambi safety, quite possibly the grip safety. Does anyone know or know how to find out? I'd like to replace them. I have switched out my slide stop for an ed brown, wanted to anyway b/c of the color combo I wanted for the sig. Well thanks if you can help me out!

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Old 10-05-2011, 08:33 PM   #2
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I can't help you with identifying which are MIM parts, but speaking for myself, I wouldn't be overly concerned with it. I'm relatively new to pistols, but my experience in the pump world was that there are mim parts & then there are MIM parts. I've seen them that were a piece of junk & I've had experience with those that were just as serviceable & dependable as machined parts.

I've read a lot about them, in regard to pistols, & concensus has been that if used/made by a reputable manufacturer, they are fine. Personally, I'd include Sig in that group, along with Colt, Kimber & Springfield.

Of course, it does seem a shame that the 1911 world has come to that point, but that is the way of the world, sadly. One thing that has struck me is that other pistol platforms are full of MIM parts & no one questions it. It's just in the 1911 platform that I read complaints.

Anyway, I hope you get your answer resolved.

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Old 10-05-2011, 08:37 PM   #3
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I know that there were many & various reported problems and issues with the MIM process when it was new. However, MIM produced parts today are reportedly very high quality. This is probably why that once the guns you speak of were produced with no MIM parts and now there are. And also why they make the statement "we're not really going to tell you what parts are MIM however, we can assure you that every part is of the highest quality".
They are trying to get around the question by not getting into the whole MIM debate because (in their eyes, at least) it is now a non-issue.

All that said, it is an ongoing debate and many choose to replace all non-bar stock parts. I have no idea how you could find out which parts are and which are not based on their answer - if I were you and this was important to me, I would err on the side of caution and assume that everything except the frame, slide & barrel are MIM (and thus replace everything).

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Old 10-05-2011, 08:44 PM   #4
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One alternative, assuming you will be doing the replacement yourself, is detail strip it & order the ones you want to replace. Of course, means your pistol will be out of service longer since you'll be waiting for parts or having to reassemble it & a second tear down when you get them.

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Old 10-05-2011, 09:54 PM   #5
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the big myth about metal injection molding is its weak.

this is a total myth. mim can be stronger in critical stress ways than steel. it all depends on the composition and what stresses the mim formula is created to endure.

steel parts can be cheap and easily broken just like mim parts can be.

personally i wouldnt worry about it. just swaping it out to swap is no gauruntee the new part wont break sooner than the original mim.

if a block of steel is turned to molten metal and injected into a mold that is MIM. ruger 1911s are 100% mim as they are investment casted which is a form of metal injecion molding.

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Old 10-06-2011, 12:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonM View Post
the big myth about metal injection molding is its weak.

this is a total myth. mim can be stronger in critical stress ways than steel. it all depends on the composition and what stresses the mim formula is created to endure.

steel parts can be cheap and easily broken just like mim parts can be.

personally i wouldnt worry about it. just swaping it out to swap is no gauruntee the new part wont break sooner than the original mim.

if a block of steel is turned to molten metal and injected into a mold that is MIM. ruger 1911s are 100% mim as they are investment casted which is a form of metal injecion molding.
+1
I agree with this completely...
My Springer Loaded is chock full of MIM parts & I have over 1500 rounds through it with absolutey no problems whatsoever. I would not hesitate to carry this gun.
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Old 10-06-2011, 12:40 AM   #7
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Thanks for replying you guys! I was worried that no one had any insight to offer! The question I was surprised that didn't get asked is why I didn't just go with an ed brown or Wesson, Wilson combat etc etc....to answer that question..I wanted my first 1911 to be of production class instead of semi-custom/custom solely b/c if I got a ed brown/Wesson/Wilson then I would probably never shoot another 1911. I'm new in the 1911 field and wanted to get a nice one then go up to an even better one to have something to compare too. I'm not totally against MIM, hell I'm sure almost every other firearm I have is all MIM parts, and the stuff that I want to change out in the future would be common stuff that would be MIM on other 1911's (only from what I've been told) safety, slide stop, firing pin, grip safety. I'm not worried about the grip safety, honestly more concerned with the ambi safety, slide stop, firing pin? (I dunno if firing pin would be a big deal or not, would it?) I've changed out the slide stop first since it was the most simple.

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Old 10-06-2011, 01:23 AM   #8
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Before you go to a custom, you show read the sticky above about choosing a 1911. Mainly the part about getting a 1911 & shooting the snot out of it to help you decide what features, etc. that you want.

Another idea would be to get a good name brand starter pistol & when you're sure about the changes you want, send it to Wilson, or someone, to have it customized & reliability work done on it.

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Old 10-06-2011, 01:59 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gollygee
Before you go to a custom, you show read the sticky above about choosing a 1911. Mainly the part about getting a 1911 & shooting the snot out of it to help you decide what features, etc. that you want.

Another idea would be to get a good name brand starter pistol & when you're sure about the changes you want, send it to Wilson, or someone, to have it customized & reliability work done on it.
It seems to me you're saying my sig isn't a very good starting pistol......it is there top of the line 1911. Not starting BLEEP with you just saying. I did my research and for the $ I wanted to spend the SIG offered the features I wanted ie: front strap checkering, match grade trigger, barrel, sear and hammer set, night sights, custom slide, two tone color and ambi safety. I spent $1000 after taxes on it and have shot now 700+ rounds since I bought it 3 weeks ago and not one single problem except the one round of hornady TAP 200 grn HP which I found out i needed to shooting a 230 grn round. I'm pretty accurate from 15 yards and and do OK from 25. The thing shoots some pretty tight groups! I am very happy with my choice and I think Sig has made a fine production 1911, I just can't leave anything alone is what my problem is. I'm in no means trying to "pimp" my 1911 out. It originally had wood grips and I've decided to switch to alumagrips, changed the slide stop from silver to black and then want to switch my ambi safety to black as well.
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:40 AM   #10
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MIM has improved.

If you do not need to replace a part, then leave it alone. Change the springs, check the disconnector and ejector as time goes on.

Shoot the heck out of it.

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