kimber zero malfunctions, ruger 11 malfunctions. - Page 2
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:51 AM   #11
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Had a Ruger P345, had lots of light strikes.. I sold it without hesitation..
Had a few fail to feeds with my CDP, but only with two cheap mags and a Kimber mag..
Put 100's through my Wilson mag.. Zero issues

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Old 06-07-2013, 05:04 AM   #12
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it seems that the speed of the slide does have something to do with it. The problem is he did a bunch of research on the net and was advised to change his spring pressures to lighten up the trigger pull and improve reliability. Turns out that advice was most likely wrong. Now we need to put the factory springs back in it and blow through another $100 in ammo to test it out.

Thanks guys

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Old 06-07-2013, 05:49 AM   #13
disappointed & disgusted, But DETERMINED...
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Default Ruger Problems?? Really??

Thats funny, We have 5 Rugers' in this House(SR9,LC9, DW's SP101 & The 5" Bull Barrel Secuity Six my Dad carried as a duty gun in the 1970's-he was a U.S. Postal Service Cop) Plus a 10/22 thats 20+ years old and has never had a misfire...since buying the SR9 & LC9 last summer i have had a total of 3 Jams,..all with either factory reloads or JHP's in the LC(in which they rec. only factory ball ammo). Hope the OP's Relative puts back the factory springs...
The 'Smith I took my SR9 to to look at said "no trigger job needed-just get used to the heavier pull of a DAO trigger...

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Old 06-08-2013, 08:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
It seems that the speed of the slide does have something to do with it. The problem is he did a bunch of research on the net and was advised to change his spring pressures to lighten up the trigger pull and improve reliability. Turns out that advice was most likely wrong. Now we need to put the factory springs back in it and blow through another $100 in ammo to test it out.
The recoil spring has nothing to do with the trigger. It only returns the slide. The mainspring also has nothing to do with the trigger, it operates the hammer through the hammer strut. The firing pin spring also has nothing to do with the trigger.

The sear spring (three leaf, flat spring) can have an affect on the trigger. However, unless you are trained or practiced in adjusting the sear spring - leave it alone. You can make the pistol unsafe if you don't know how to adjust the sear spring.
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:23 PM   #15
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You guys should just return it back to all factory parts and it WILL work fine!!

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Old 06-08-2013, 09:29 PM   #16
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Are both handguns well broke in?? If so and the ruger has been reliable then it ammo . If both are new then your ammo my not run well in his pistol. Allways have backup ammo to try.

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Old 06-08-2013, 11:31 PM   #17
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Generally speaking, changing spring weights creates reliabilty problems.

90% of trigger problems can be fixed with proper stoning and using molybednum grease.

It is very common for just a good stoning job to drop pull weights by half. Many times you can come in around 3 lbs with moly grease and polish.

This isn't something I am recommending for a do it yourself job, if you get it wrong it ain't safe.

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Old 06-09-2013, 04:28 PM   #18
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Needless to say I would not have posted this question if I would have known he changed the mainspring and recoil spring. Kind of disappointed he did. He's an internet research junkie and I guess he was told the mainspring would reduce trigger pull and changing the recoil to 20# would increase reliability. He's convinced it's not the springs and will not change. So I have to just sit back.

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"Liberals make great proctologists. They're the only ones who truly know what the inside of an anus looks like."~me
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:50 PM   #19
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Any info on how it ran before it was "improved?" People need to quit fixing stuff that ain't broke, especially with new 1911s.
Better trigger? Pay a smith for a trigger job. They're cheaper than you think. Do this BEFORE changing the mainspring. You may not feel the need to screw with the mainspring with a really good trigger job.
Recoil springs? Is there a problem to be addressed? If so, order the appropriate calibration pack from Wolff and get it sorted before moving on to other parts.
Slide stop - may require fitting for reliable function i.e. slide locking back.
Grip safety & mag release - Fitted correctly, shouldn't be an issue.
Lighter (I assume) Mainspring? - Light strikes anyone?
Like modding everything from computers to motorcycles...one part at a time so there is only one variable to deal with.

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Old 06-09-2013, 05:14 PM   #20
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The mainspring has little to do with trigger pull on a 1911, but it will cause light primer hits. The recoil spring has nothing to do with trigger pull either, but generally a lighter recoil spring shouldn't cause stove pipes, a heavier one could though.

The flat spring\sear spring can be manually adjusted to change trigger pull wieghts, but generally after a sear polish you tighten that spring up to prvent doubles. Believe it or not the wieght of the trigger alone has enough enertia to make the gun double if the flat spring is made too light.

Anyway, it sounds like he got bad internet advice ;-(

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